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I have a classic router (Craftsman model 315.17480) that I've owned for ~35 years with no problems--except one. This model has a work light (uses a standard 12V automotive bulb) that won't light apart from the split second when the trigger is first squeezed. But there's an odd twist to the story: I briefly ran this router using an in-line potentiometer (no cutting load, by the way) at a reduced voltage to reduce the RPMs to verify rotation direction. During this reduced voltage test, the light came on and stayed on.

So: anyone have any words of wisdom as to how to make the work light stay on while the router operates? Thanks.
 

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My only thought would be the switch itself. The bulb is indeed an automotive bulb which would be rated at 12V...wouldn't make sense to run 120 through it. But there does not apper to be a diode or rectifier anywhere in the circuitry. I suspect the switch itself reduces the voltage to the bulb when operating properly.

Now, why it worked at a reduced voltage may be a sign of a resistor or diode breaking down at full voltage and not at reduced voltage.

I would vote for the switch...but others more familiar with Craftsman products might have better thought.

Good luck...
 

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I had one of those but I don`t remember how it worked and in fact it never did for long. I don`t know if there was too much vibration for a bulb like that or whether the voltage may have spiked occasionally but it went through several bulbs in fairly short order. I don`t remember anymore if I just gave up using them or if it quit for good.
 
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I had one of those but I don`t remember how it worked and in fact it never did for long. I don`t know if there was too much vibration for a bulb like that or whether the voltage may have spiked occasionally but it went through several bulbs in fairly short order. I don`t remember anymore if I just gave up using them or if it quit for good.
the sockets are cheapies and you need a rough service bulb...
vibration breaks the filaments...
the ''winking'' is because the broken filament arcs from the vibration...

I wonder if a LED replacement bulb would work...
 
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I have a craftsman router, and upon buying a replacement bulb (now made in other countries) I found that the bulbs were not seating in the socket due to the glass hitting the top of the socket and prevented the bayonet of the bulb from rotating. I filed the top of the plastic socket down and it provided the necessary clearance to push and turn the bulb. It has worked ever since.
 

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I had one that worked sometimes and I figured out it was in the socket. The bulb would shift slightly in the socket just enough to break the circuit. Cheaply made socket, I ended up adding a little solder to the low terminal and that worked until the bulb burned out and I bought a new Porter Cable router.
 
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