[challagan]

I splurged a little and ordered the jig from Gifkin. I can't wait to use it. With this jig and my Oak Park Box Joint jig I think I am fixed for box jointing... well maybe I will pick up the MLCS blind dovetail jig someday. I was going to build one based off of those MLCS templates but I decided wht the heck! So I have to do the first initial set up which is just cutting the tails, the slots and if it is a tight joint remove add 2 shims on the straight cutter side or if loose add 2 shims on the straight cutter side. The jig comes with 5 shims installed. I got the video for the jig and Roger Gifkin does an excellent job demonstrating the jig and how to use it. The downside to the jig is you must use their bits with it. Anyway, thought I would post a couple photos of it:

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Hi Corey

You know me by now I love jigs and this one looks like a great one.

You said ▼

"The downside to the jig is you must use their bits with it"

I don't think so , the norm is a 8deg. dovetail bit and a standard straight bit with 5/8" OD bearings.
take a look at the set below, it should work in the jig.
Plus it comes with a small dovetail bit for 1/4" and 3/8" stock for the neat little boxes we both make.

http://cgi.ebay.com/5pc-Top-Bearing...5081036QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

Plus at a great price, about 1/2 the price of the MLCS set.

Bj

 

[challagan]

Thanks Bob, I am looking forward to using it! I dunno Bob, I am not sure it is a 7 degree dovetail or not. I need to compare that straight bit to my straights but I don't have another dovetail bit to compare. The maker of course says you need to use his bits and they are designed for the jig. I asked at the Oz forums and all say you need to use those bits but I don't know if any actually tried it. They don't Identify the bits by size on the website so I don't know.

Actually I just found this on the Japanwoodworker website, it lables the dovetail bit as 8 degree:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=95.950.50&dept_id=12984
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=95.950.25&dept_id=12984
and here is the straight. I think these are the bits that are used with my template anyway.
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=95.950.25&dept_id=12984

Wait a minute, I just read your post again, the norm is an 8 degree? The items shown in the link you posted are 7 degree? I am confused

 

[bobj3]

Hi Corey

The key is the 5/8" OD bearing, but it looks like they are using a lock ring that's 5/8" OD also just to be on the safe side.

But once you play with let me know ,Thanks

Bj

NOTE***take one of the bits out of the bag and take a snapshot of it and post it ,,,thanks

 

[challagan]

Thanks Bob, ok I took a couple pics. First I am glad you requested I got a nice suprise on the dovetail bit....
Now you see one:

Now you see two... Yeah, they had two dovetail bits bags attached together

Ok, here is a close up of the dovetail bit. Note I measured both the straight and the dovetail bit with my micrometer or whatever you call it and the outside measurement of the bearing is 1/2 not 5/8 according to my measurements. Sorry the straightbit photo didn't come out clear batteries were going dead I think. It does have a 3/8 cutter on it.

 

[bobj3]

Thanks Corey

Yep, a long lock 5/8" OD ring/collar just for a safe guard so you don't cut in the template and a long bit, Keller type router bit, 1/2" 8deg. dovetail bit.


http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1431

Bj

 

[challagan]

Thanks Bob! Can you buy those long lock collars like that?

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Thanks Bob! Can you buy those long lock collars like that?

Corey

I don't think so, only from the spot you got the jig from.
You can get the short ones from Whiteside for 3.oo ea.
you can stack 2 or 3 and have the same thing.
LC 1/4
http://woodworkersworld.net/ball_bearings_arbors.shtml#lc

But here's a tip, put a O-Ring under the lock collar, they come with VERY Small set screws that don't stay in place, and the O-Ring will stop the collar from dropping down when you are not looking and it will wipe the jig out, one nick and it's junk, that maybe why they use a long one.
Recalls can kill a company as you know .
A 4.oo dollar collar is cheap insurance for them.

Bj

 

[bobj3]

Hi Corey

One more request, take your mike and check the ID on the slots on the jig just to see if they are 1/2" or 5/8" on back end of the slots.
One slot with the bit is always better than two, two will rip on the 2nd pass in ,no side support or to say no chip breaker on the 2nd pass when you move it over to clean up the slot.
I hate to re-engineer tools for the Mfg.but sometimes you need to once you use one.

Thanks
Bj

 

[challagan]

I will do that Bob tomorrow. I know the slot is slightly larger than the bit and it is and you have to make a slight second pass but it is hardly noticeable when watching on the video. Something on the video as well about a spring being in the collar as well in case the set screw would come loose.

Corey

 

[Mike]

Corey, I would check with the members in Oz for specifics of the bit. They may be able to provide you with more info about the collar as well. The Gifkins jig has a new and an old style, picked that info up on my last visit.

 

[challagan]

Thanks Mike. Yeah, I think they used to use one that had a spring right up to the bearing and now they have this lock collar. Everyon there however say you must use Gifkin or Carbtec's bit.

Corey

 

[challagan]

Hi Corey

One more request, take your mike and check the ID on the slots on the jig just to see if they are 1/2" or 5/8" on back end of the slots.
One slot with the bit is always better than two, two will rip on the 2nd pass in ,no side support or to say no chip breaker on the 2nd pass when you move it over to clean up the slot.
I hate to re-engineer tools for the Mfg.but sometimes you need to once you use one.

Thanks
Bj

Bob, I measured the back of the slots and they are 1/2 inch. The bearings are 1/2 inch and the collars are a little under that. My caliper is just a cheapy little plastic one but it says 1/2 inch for both. There is sping inside the lock collar as well.

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Hi Corey

Your routers bits got me going and I said OK if you can't buy them make some,and that's what I will today about 20 or so.
I have a box of 1/2" OD x 2 1/4" Alum. Stand Offs with a 1/4" ID that will fit the bill and with 2ea. 6-32 x 1/8" Allen Set Screws in ea.one the new type Lock Collar should do the job and I will replace the ones I have now and they should hold without using the O-Ring.

That's what's neat about this Forum something new every day for the woodworker.

Bj

 

[challagan]

Hi Corey

Your routers bits got me going and I said OK if you can't buy them make some,and that's what I will today about 20 or so.
I have a box of 1/2" OD x 2 1/4" Alum. Stand Offs with a 1/4" ID that will fit the bill and with 2ea. 6-32 x 1/8" Allen Set Screws in ea.one the new type Lock Collar should do the job and I will replace the ones I have now and they should hold without using the O-Ring.

That's what's neat about this Forum something new every day for the woodworker.

Bj

Your something else Bob, That is cool. I guess you have to like to do that kind of stuff first of all, and know what the hell you are doing to boot, that tain't me

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Hi Corey

Just a update for kicks, see snapshot below, I still need to pickup some Allen set screws Monday but other than that they are done and ready to go to work.

Bj

 

[challagan]

That's amazing Bob! Looks like you did it!! Good job!

Corey

 

[bobj3]

That's amazing Bob! Looks like you did it!! Good job!

Corey

Thanks Corey

Fun stuff on a Sunday

Bj

 

[challagan]

My Sunday was going to a couple soccer games of my daughters and then to the local Menards to spend some of my gift certificates. Dearly dissapointed in their thin stock. Only oak and aspen of which most of it was warped and twisted. Why the hell do they even keep that crap in the bin? You just can't shrink wrap tight 1/4 thick and even 1/2 long stock and expect it to stay straight! So I got a couple pieces of aspen that was good. I use that for making test cuts when making my boxes. But the day wasn't all lost...
I found some 1.99 6-1 screw drivers just like the Stanley with orange handles for 1.99 ea. They match the ones in the kits. I can buy those take the orange handle off and get some copper tubing and I have a 2.00 screw driver with a wooden handle and one end is 1/4 shank bits, the other end is 5/16 bits. I was happy... no need to mess with those 6.00 kits!
Also ran into another deal on router bits. They had a 6 pack of 2 flute carbide tipped straight bits - 1/4, 3/16, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4. Appear to be pretty nice bits at 5.59 a little box. At less than 1.00 a bit and worth it if they just last one project but I expect I will get more than that out of them. Got another pack of beading and round over and ogee bits for 10.00 a pack. And another pack than had 24 bits for 40.00 ... straights ,coves, core box, pilot round overs, hinge morticing etc. I think the cheesy parts on them is those that have bearings and that can be changed. Pretty nice bits.

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Sounds Like you had a great Sunday

Man do I recall the soccer games days with my 4 kids, dorp one here drop one hear pickup one here then take them all to the mall wait a hour or two in the truck and back home by 8:00 PM and the day was shot BUT it was fun LOL, but I'm glad I don't do it anymore, now they have kids and they get to do it hahahahahahaha what comes around goes around

Now I can go to the mall and get tools without the kids coming along, it's great
and at 20.oo bucks for each one of them (the kids) that can drain my tool fund real quick .

Bj