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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I splurged a little and ordered the jig from Gifkin. I can't wait to use it. With this jig and my Oak Park Box Joint jig I think I am fixed for box jointing... well maybe I will pick up the MLCS blind dovetail jig someday. I was going to build one based off of those MLCS templates but I decided wht the heck! So I have to do the first initial set up which is just cutting the tails, the slots and if it is a tight joint remove add 2 shims on the straight cutter side or if loose add 2 shims on the straight cutter side. The jig comes with 5 shims installed. I got the video for the jig and Roger Gifkin does an excellent job demonstrating the jig and how to use it. The downside to the jig is you must use their bits with it. Anyway, thought I would post a couple photos of it:

Corey



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks Bob, I am looking forward to using it! I dunno Bob, I am not sure it is a 7 degree dovetail or not. I need to compare that straight bit to my straights but I don't have another dovetail bit to compare. The maker of course says you need to use his bits and they are designed for the jig. I asked at the Oz forums and all say you need to use those bits but I don't know if any actually tried it. They don't Identify the bits by size on the website so I don't know.

Actually I just found this on the Japanwoodworker website, it lables the dovetail bit as 8 degree:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=95.950.50&dept_id=12984
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=95.950.25&dept_id=12984
and here is the straight. I think these are the bits that are used with my template anyway.
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=95.950.25&dept_id=12984

Wait a minute, I just read your post again, the norm is an 8 degree? The items shown in the link you posted are 7 degree? I am confused :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Bob, ok I took a couple pics. First I am glad you requested I got a nice suprise on the dovetail bit....
Now you see one:


Now you see two... Yeah, they had two dovetail bits bags attached together :)


Ok, here is a close up of the dovetail bit. Note I measured both the straight and the dovetail bit with my micrometer or whatever you call it and the outside measurement of the bearing is 1/2 not 5/8 according to my measurements. Sorry the straightbit photo didn't come out clear batteries were going dead I think. It does have a 3/8 cutter on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I will do that Bob tomorrow. I know the slot is slightly larger than the bit and it is and you have to make a slight second pass but it is hardly noticeable when watching on the video. Something on the video as well about a spring being in the collar as well in case the set screw would come loose.

Corey
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
bobj3 said:
Hi Corey

One more request, take your mike and check the ID on the slots on the jig just to see if they are 1/2" or 5/8" on back end of the slots.
One slot with the bit is always better than two, two will rip on the 2nd pass in ,no side support or to say no chip breaker on the 2nd pass when you move it over to clean up the slot.
I hate to re-engineer tools for the Mfg.but sometimes you need to once you use one.

Thanks
Bj :)
Bob, I measured the back of the slots and they are 1/2 inch. The bearings are 1/2 inch and the collars are a little under that. My caliper is just a cheapy little plastic one but it says 1/2 inch for both. There is sping inside the lock collar as well.

Corey
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
bobj3 said:
Hi Corey

Your routers bits got me going :) and I said OK if you can't buy them make some,and that's what I will today about 20 or so.
I have a box of 1/2" OD x 2 1/4" Alum. Stand Offs with a 1/4" ID that will fit the bill and with 2ea. 6-32 x 1/8" Allen Set Screws in ea.one the new type Lock Collar should do the job and I will replace the ones I have now and they should hold without using the O-Ring.

That's what's neat about this Forum something new every day for the woodworker.

Bj :)
:) Your something else Bob, That is cool. I guess you have to like to do that kind of stuff first of all, and know what the hell you are doing to boot, that tain't me :)

Corey
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
My Sunday was going to a couple soccer games of my daughters and then to the local Menards to spend some of my gift certificates. Dearly dissapointed in their thin stock. Only oak and aspen of which most of it was warped and twisted. Why the hell do they even keep that crap in the bin? You just can't shrink wrap tight 1/4 thick and even 1/2 long stock and expect it to stay straight! So I got a couple pieces of aspen that was good. I use that for making test cuts when making my boxes. But the day wasn't all lost...
I found some 1.99 6-1 screw drivers just like the Stanley with orange handles for 1.99 ea. They match the ones in the kits. I can buy those take the orange handle off and get some copper tubing and I have a 2.00 screw driver with a wooden handle and one end is 1/4 shank bits, the other end is 5/16 bits. :) I was happy... no need to mess with those 6.00 kits!
Also ran into another deal on router bits. They had a 6 pack of 2 flute carbide tipped straight bits - 1/4, 3/16, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4. Appear to be pretty nice bits at 5.59 a little box. At less than 1.00 a bit and worth it if they just last one project but I expect I will get more than that out of them. Got another pack of beading and round over and ogee bits for 10.00 a pack. And another pack than had 24 bits for 40.00 ... straights ,coves, core box, pilot round overs, hinge morticing etc. I think the cheesy parts on them is those that have bearings and that can be changed. Pretty nice bits.

Corey
 
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