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Sorry folks, I'm pretty sure this should not be here, so mods, please move it to the correct place if need be.

After running some cherry boards through my planer, evenly on both sides, I glued up a panel that was about 3/8 x 13 x 20. After applying clamping pressure, I used 3 sets of cuawls(???) across the joints and everything looked real good. I took the panel out of the clamps after about 1/2 hour to scrape off the glue beads and the glue up still looked good, so I put it back in the clamps for about 4 hours. When I looked at it this morning, the panel looked like an air foil, both edges are warped. My question to you experts is can I put some damp cloths on the panel and put weights on it to try to remove the warp??? Will this weaken the joints? The panel is for the bottom of a serving tray that needs to be delivered a week from Thursday:surprise:

Thank you for all your advice.
 

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I don't profess to be an expert, but I might have left the clamps on for a bit longer before removing them. Secondly, did you use clamps over and under, alternating or just one one side?

I'd be more inclined to rip the pieces through the joint, then join(t) the edges, then try another glue up, but if you've got the time, try the damp cloth first.
 

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Hard to say what happened for sure. How thick was the board before planing? Did you plane it from 3/4 down to 3/8, that is a lot of removal and will definitely make a difference on how the wood reacts.
 

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Are you sure your rip blade is really 90 to the table? Use a Wixey digital angle finder to make sure. Eyeballing against an engineerr's scale doesn't get it for me and my old eyes. Alternating grain can help, but taking the piece out of the clamps and cauls too quick could be part of it. Re ripping sounds like your only solution, shy of starting with new stockk.
 

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When you cut the boards the first time you want to mark the top inside and outside and cut accordingly. That way if your saw is a little off they will still make a perfect top. I have been watching the daily wood working shows and that is what they recommend.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you all for the quick replies.

Vince...I did alternate the clamps top & bottom, I used 3 of the Rockler Panel Glue Up Clamps and 2 pipe clamps. I don't have access to a jointer, so I use a Freud Glue Line on my tired old Bosch 4100.

The boards were a little over 1/2 thick, so I didn't have to remove too much material.

I really hope that I don't have to rip and reglue, that is not very pleasant for me, it's like getting your toe nails pulled out using clam shells :crying:

Thanks again folks
 

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I really hope that I don't have to rip and reglue, that is not very pleasant for me, it's like getting your toe nails pulled out using clam shells :crying:

Thanks again folks
why???

and what is your grain lay up/orientation as in flat, quarter or rift sawn..
it may be your wood and not the joint...

.
 

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Thank you all for the quick replies.

Vince...I did alternate the clamps top & bottom, I used 3 of the Rockler Panel Glue Up Clamps and 2 pipe clamps. I don't have access to a jointer, so I use a Freud Glue Line on my tired old Bosch 4100.

The boards were a little over 1/2 thick, so I didn't have to remove too much material.

I really hope that I don't have to rip and reglue, that is not very pleasant for me, it's like getting your toe nails pulled out using clam shells :crying:

Thanks again folks
I have had to rip and re-glue several times in my life and sometimes more than once on the same glue up. Even had to rip and turn some of the boards over or end to end to get a flat panel. I don't like to switch grain directions, but some times it is unavoidable, just don't run it back thru the planer ,because part of the board will be planing with the grain and the other part against the grain. So I use a belt sander, or my drum sander to flatten it after glue up.

Herb
 
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