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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well this is the latest wooden plane mock-up. It is made from Black Walnut and has Maple racing stripe.
The blade is an 1 3/8" wide Stanley block plane blade. It is a bevel down, with a 55° bed angle.

Herb
 

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Like Tim said,"it's a beauty Herb,great job" & I would really like to have one.Thanks for showing us. James.
 

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you are a class act all of your own Herb...
KUDOS!!!
 

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It won't be long and you'll be stuck with the finest collection of beautiful hand-made planes. I can see a collection prominently displayed in your study...you sitting in a chair with your pipe gazing out the window and conjuring up the next masterpiece...

Love the blonde stripes...

How much better can it get...? !
 

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So when does the storefront open? Talk about plane envy....I'm not sure I could use these as they are simply too gorgeous to think about cutting into raw wood. I suspect a better use is a huge artisan display case highlighting the beauty, design, and engineering. OK where's my towel, I'm drowning in drool.....
 

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Beautiful Herb. That tool is too nice to use !

Did anyone see the series of videos included on the making of the Damascus blade for the plane, WOW !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Herb, How does it feel in your hands when using it?
That is a good question, It feels awful in my big hands. This is a mock up, so I am working on a larger model to improve the grip on it, also lowering the bed angle from 55° down to 45°.
I should have that one ready by next week.

Herb
 

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What everyone else said, in spades!
I too was wondering about the ergonomic aspect(?).
It's almost like handcrafting a rifle stock to suit a specific person. If you were custom crafting one for yourself, or someone else, you could go to the extreme and make it specifically right or left handed?
Maybe do a mock up with modeling clay to get the grip the way it feels perfect? Not that it needs any improvement!!! :)
 

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Looks good Herb. I'd keep it around because you might find it is the perfect tool to use for a project some day. Even if you don't use it it will look good just sitting there.
 
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Herb, On your next prototype...you may want to make sure that the wood grain is either parallel to the sole, or slopes downward toward the rear. This will prevent chip out on the sole when using it. It is also important on a wooden plane to have it tensioned with the wedge and blade retracted when flattening the sole. I love the look of your Damascus plane, and I love your trademark...is it burned with an iron or an ink imprint?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the tips, I have not tensioned any of my planes, never even thought of it. I flatten the sole on the jointer so will have to make sure the blade is tight and doesn't vibrate loose, might bevel the iron the wrong way.
The bug is a stamp, that I finish over.
Herb
 

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Herb, Do the final flattening with sandpaper on the bed of your jointer, with the iron retracted and the wedge tight.
 

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I watched that video quite some time ago and my first thoughts were; what a beautiful design and secondly, that thing has got to be uncomfortable (of course, always relative to the user of course). Great spin on the design, especially the strip. And the stamp is akin to a makers mark. Sweet!!
I do believe that dropping that bedded angle down to 45* will make a BIG difference in actual use, feel and performance. Tensioning is a big deal on low profile style plane, particularly Japanese style plans. Typically the shorter the body and the higher the wedge pin, the less likely tension will be a factor. But, but, but... for all the time it takes, certainly doesn't hurt to give it a look, if not for just peace of mind.

Can't wait to see V2.0....

that and a companion plane hammer :)

That is a good question, It feels awful in my big hands. This is a mock up, so I am working on a larger model to improve the grip on it, also lowering the bed angle from 55° down to 45°.
I should have that one ready by next week.

Herb
 
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