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Its not quite finished but here is what I have so far, its all mdf material with some pine rap on the top And oak for the fence, the router plate is 1/4" aluminum, the top is 1 1/2 " thick mdf I need to sand out some glue and pencil marks and then will use linseed oil for the finish.
I made a flip top for storage in the back compartment, I got the plans form American woodworker many years ago (I think that it might predate norms ver not sure?)
 

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Nice router table Rick. I don't have a router table yet but did notice one thing you might want to be careful with. If your switch will be the way you turn off your router, be aware that those type switches are easily turned on by slight pressure. The location you chose makes it easy to bump it by accident....ron
 

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Well Rick if this is any example of your abilities I will look forward to seeing some of your future post of projects. I am inclined to agree with Ron regarding the switch, just a thought.
 

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Very nice. I toyed with the idea of making a flip top on mine. I guess I can still go back and rework it-or at least review it to see if I can. Its a very nice job. And for what its worth, as a total amateur, I agree with the other guys about the switch. From what we can SEE it sure looks like it would be one of those that would click ON very easily just be leaning on it.
 

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Hi Rick

You did a nice job on the router table :)

I have question for you, what are you going to do when you need to use a 1 1/2" router bit or bigger ?
The switch is fine I think if you have the router plugged into a outlet as well or a switch that cuts the power if you lift the top up..

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Its not quite finished but here is what I have so far, its all mdf material with some pine rap on the top And oak for the fence, the router plate is 1/4" aluminum, the top is 1 1/2 " thick mdf I need to sand out some glue and pencil marks and then will use linseed oil for the finish.
I made a flip top for storage in the back compartment, I got the plans form American woodworker many years ago (I think that it might predate norms ver not sure?)
 

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Really nice table Rick

Please pay attention to what bobj3 said. An alternative will be to switch to a phenolic plate when you need larger diameter bits (assuming your table opening will accept one)

Nicolas
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the kind replies ,
Bobj3 as far as the throat opening I will get some more aluminum and make a few inserts and chuck the router plate in a lathe cut a hole big enough to accept the inserts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Hi Rick

You did a nice job on the router table :)

I have question for you, what are you going to do when you need to use a 1 1/2" router bit or bigger ?
The switch is fine I think if you have the router plugged into a outlet as well or a switch that cuts the power if you lift the top up..

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I have a answer it took some time (work and all) but here it is we chucked the plate in a lathe and turned a rabbit in it at 3" and then made inserts for the plate at 3/8 " thick I can now use many sized router bits with the same base plate I will drill and tap the base plate for screws to hold the inserts.
 

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Nice! You will like the flip top. Makes working on the router easy when you don't have a lifter. I would suggest you make a stop to hold it in the "up" position.

Bob has made me think about a cutout switch for the flip top; good idea!

Good job on the table!
 

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Congratulations

Nice work! Congratulations!

I was wondering why you didn't add a full length mitre rail along the long side?

Also , you can replace the switch with a fail safe safety switch , which requires a finger to push a recessed button, and has a raised button / paddle for fast switching off

regards,
Jill
 
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