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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, it has finally started! My new official woodworking shop! It has been a very long time coming for me.
It will be 30X40, with 12' walls, and a 1 ton chain fall that will travel down the center of the 40' span.
I am very excited!
More to come.
Water Sky Plant Tree Road surface
 

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Well, it has finally started! My new official woodworking shop! It has been a very long time coming for me.
It will be 30X40, with 12' walls, and a 1 ton chain fall that will travel down the center of the 40' span.
I am very excited!
More to come. View attachment 400211
Very nice. I'm in the process of designing a 24X40 shop. I'm 80 miles from the nearest road so a concrete floor is out of the question and it's 24' wide because I have enough 16' metal roofing panels to do the job.
Property Building House Slope Land lot
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I like it! A very nice design. I had to get a line pump and transfer the concrete from the front to the back yard. Extra cost! That is understandable. I am not cutting any corners.
This is my one shot to get it right!
I have 32 furniture grade Red Oak, and Old growth Pine logs that I had to take down in order to build my shop.
I released the Portable Sawmill on Tuesday for shipment to me.
It is going to be one hell of a ride!
 

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Congratulations!!!!

Keep us updated on the build. I love to see something done right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will!
It will be well into next year before the shop is all setup. I will post the build as it happens.
I have to build walls, and have the electrical wiring installed before I can satisfy the permit requirements.
Then I will bring in the new equipment!!! I don't want to move those beast around while I am building walls.
 

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Well, it has finally started! My new official woodworking shop! It has been a very long time coming for me.
It will be 30X40, with 12' walls, and a 1 ton chain fall that will travel down the center of the 40' span.
I am very excited!
More to come. View attachment 400211
Awesome keep it going and yes don't cut corners that you will regret in the future.
The only thing we all regret is not going bigger. I put my new one up about 20 years ago and thought, I'll never run out of room... Wrong 2 years it was full and now I even more.
Excited to see your progress keep it up and look forward to more posts. Pics.
 

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Hahahha, my shed would fit in your office....

More photos please........
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The form is up!
My dirt guy just left. He came out on a Sunday, no extra fee.
We are expecting rain everyday next week! Hopefully there won't be any more low spots to hold water. I have been plagued with that problem for months. I think that I have a better handle on it now,
The building company are scheduled to start the week of the 13th. If it is too wet, I will push back the start. I don't need any more unnecessary work.
 

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Hope you're going for 2x6 studs so you can put in some heavy duty insulation. Double or triple pane windows, and heavy insulation under the roof. One other thing that has worked really well for me in putting a layer of radiant barrier between roof and insulation. It cut a measured 35 degrees of heat passed through roof. R38 underneath and in the walls and you'll be snug hot or cold, and save money on heating and cooling. I love it. Hope you'll keep us up to date.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you Tom! It will be a metal building. Three inch galvanized square tubing, all welded construction. It will have 3" vinyl backed insulation in the walls and ceiling. It comes standard with a 2/12 pitch roof. I changed it to a 4/12 pitch, to minimize oak leaves from landing and staying on the roof. I will probably go with 2X4 walls, because of the insulation already provided. I am having
4-3'0 X 3'0 windows, one on each wall, double insulated. Not much heat loss there. The building walls will be 12' tall. I wont build the studded walls that high. They will only be for wiring, tool cabinets, shelving, and wood storage. I am debating if insulating the interior studded walls will help, since they will not extend the entire length. I welcome any and all suggestions!
I will certainly keep everyone updated as it develops!
This forum has been amazingly helpful, informative, and supportive for many years to me!
Thank to ALL!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
A little setback. I discovered that I have a "soft spongy" spot on the entrance section to my shop. When they originally hauled the dirt in the guy started digging out the wet mud. It seemed to be enough. However throughout the building process, and some much unneeded rain, it reared it's ugly head!
I discussed it with the dirt guy. It will not just go away. They will have to get back out here and excavate out until we get to a solid level. Then we will access it and haul in the appropriate type of
sand/soil that will establish a solid drive-able foundation.
There will be: building crew, with their equipment, lumber delivered to build 100' of linear walls, newly purchased Woodworking equipment, all of my presently owned stuff, my NEW sawmill, all 32 logs, etc. Therefore I need to get it right now so I can get busy!
The building will not be built until next year. It has given me time to, plan and reevaluate my approach to everything. Some important minor changes were discovered as this process has started.
More to come!
 

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French drains. Rock in trenches, or even perforated 4 inch PVC laid on top of the rocks, will catch and carry away water permanently. Raise the foundation so you have a downhill slope all around to carry rain water away from the base of the structure. If the structure runs across an underground water line, I'd consider a different location or rerouting the line. Having struggled with irrigation for nearly two decades here in the desert, almost all of my main irrigation lines are now schedule 80 PVC, very long life, not easily broken or breached. More expensive, but fewer problems.

My property is higher on both ends and shallow in the middle by 3 feet. My outside irrigation leads to open sprinklers and dribblers in the low areas, so when I cut off the water, the pipes all drain so even with a deep freeze,the buried pipes have nothing to freeze and burst the pipe.

Mentioning all this because for the wet spot to recur, suggests that a drain will be necessary. I'd also make sure you have rain gutters that carry the water away from the building. We have a complication of having a layer of concrete-like caliche, which doesn't let water soak down. Had to dig 2-4 feet down to enable planting and drainage.

I futzed around with schedule 40 for years because it was cheaper. It was always bursting, leaking, giving me fits and costly repairs. Schedule 80 is almost three times the price, but careful design, trenching and the self draining via gravity, has made it trouble free. I have risers here and there that feed short drip tubing, but also reveal the location of every pipe. A 1 day water leak here jumps the water bill by $300-$500. That has not happened since putting in the schedule 80.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You seem to be reading my mind Tom!

That was exactly my thoughts. The wet spot is deep below the surface. There are other low spots, but they do't stay wet and spongy. It is 40' away from my building. The entrance on the side of my house. I am glad that I discovered it now, while the building process is just starting.

I talked with the gutter guy. He suggested going with 6" drains, an easier transition from the 4' square downspouts. Even if I go with open or french drains.

Also leaf/gutter guards. With 12' walls I don't need to be climbing ladders cleaning out 80' of gutters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
We now have a road to the shop! We are expecting a week of rain! This will be a test to see how well it will hold up!
 

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We now have a road to the shop! We are expecting a week of rain! This will be a test to see how well it will hold up!
Looks like it will hold a loaded down flat bed full of material for the shop!
 
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