You can't add a board to the fence to straighten it?
My table saw and fence dilemma
I have a Delta 2000 series contractors saw. (36-465)
I've spent a great deal of time trying to get it dialed in after it sat unused for over ten years.
I've gone through just about the entire machine and can get the blade parallel with a miter slot down to about 2 thousandths, which is good enough for me.
But after getting the blade that close, I found another problem; my fence has a bow in it, and it's going to get replaced.
I've spent a fair amount of time on the phone with a great service tech over at delta getting this saw dialed in.
At first I was just going to replace it, but in the end and for many reasons, I've decided that keeping this one and making it the best that I can is my best option.
The tech recommended their T30T3 fence system, (since they no longer make the original), which consists of new rails, and an aluminum fence. It's 30 inches, which is the size I currently have, and comes in at about $300.
For not much more, I could get the same fence in 50 inches.
He says it's their Biesemeyer clone. (Delta also makes the Biesemeyer)
I did some more looking around and found a fence that is almost the same thing I have. It's just the extruded aluminum, but my handle will fit right on, and it has the same track on top as the one I currently have, and have adapted my router fence to, but in addition, it has a replaceable UHMW face.
It runs about $80.
Then for about $200 more than the T30T3, there's the real Biesemeyer system, which has the birch plywood face, comes with rails and is a fence that owners proudly rave about.
The T3 fence system should bolt right on, whereas the Biesemeyer might (or might not) require tapping a few holes in the table up in size. The Biesemeyer also comes in a 50" for just a little more.
I could go for the simple solution, and just get the $80 fence replacement, but my fear is that if my trough isn't perfectly straight, a new fence without new rails isn't going to help matters at all.
Then again new rails (from either system) will mean I might have to do a little more work to get my newly built router table adapted to it.
I finally decided to go for the T3 fence and ordered it from ACME tools.
Three days later, UPS tracking showed they were still waiting to receive it from the shipper.
I called ACME this morning, she did some checking, and determined it was lost somewhere between them and UPS.
(Who else is there, right?)
Oh well, She said she'd go right ahead and ship another.
About an hour or two passes, and she calls me letting me know they were now out of them, and they'd be backordered for about 5-8 weeks.
Arghh!
So I'm back to square one, and rethinking the whole thing.
Do I want an aluminum face, a birch face, or a UHMW?
Do I want to spend $80, $300, or is it worth it at that point to spend $500 and get what folks are calling the best?
All I know for certain, is that I don't want to see one more board come off this saw with anything less than a perfectly straight cut.
Your opinions, let them fly!
I've spent a great deal of time trying to get it dialed in after it sat unused for over ten years.
I've gone through just about the entire machine and can get the blade parallel with a miter slot down to about 2 thousandths, which is good enough for me.
But after getting the blade that close, I found another problem; my fence has a bow in it, and it's going to get replaced.
I've spent a fair amount of time on the phone with a great service tech over at delta getting this saw dialed in.
At first I was just going to replace it, but in the end and for many reasons, I've decided that keeping this one and making it the best that I can is my best option.
The tech recommended their T30T3 fence system, (since they no longer make the original), which consists of new rails, and an aluminum fence. It's 30 inches, which is the size I currently have, and comes in at about $300.
For not much more, I could get the same fence in 50 inches.
He says it's their Biesemeyer clone. (Delta also makes the Biesemeyer)
I did some more looking around and found a fence that is almost the same thing I have. It's just the extruded aluminum, but my handle will fit right on, and it has the same track on top as the one I currently have, and have adapted my router fence to, but in addition, it has a replaceable UHMW face.
It runs about $80.
Then for about $200 more than the T30T3, there's the real Biesemeyer system, which has the birch plywood face, comes with rails and is a fence that owners proudly rave about.
The T3 fence system should bolt right on, whereas the Biesemeyer might (or might not) require tapping a few holes in the table up in size. The Biesemeyer also comes in a 50" for just a little more.
I could go for the simple solution, and just get the $80 fence replacement, but my fear is that if my trough isn't perfectly straight, a new fence without new rails isn't going to help matters at all.
Then again new rails (from either system) will mean I might have to do a little more work to get my newly built router table adapted to it.
I finally decided to go for the T3 fence and ordered it from ACME tools.
Three days later, UPS tracking showed they were still waiting to receive it from the shipper.
I called ACME this morning, she did some checking, and determined it was lost somewhere between them and UPS.
(Who else is there, right?)
Oh well, She said she'd go right ahead and ship another.
About an hour or two passes, and she calls me letting me know they were now out of them, and they'd be backordered for about 5-8 weeks.
Arghh!
So I'm back to square one, and rethinking the whole thing.
Do I want an aluminum face, a birch face, or a UHMW?
Do I want to spend $80, $300, or is it worth it at that point to spend $500 and get what folks are calling the best?
All I know for certain, is that I don't want to see one more board come off this saw with anything less than a perfectly straight cut.
Your opinions, let them fly!
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Yeah, I did that a few days ago with a piece of 3/4 baltic birch.You can't add a board to the fence to straighten it?
I had to add some cardboard shims behind it to make up for the curve.
I'm not sure I'm happy with it yet, I need to tear up some more wood.
I have a PALS on the way to install onto the trunnion.
Once I get that that installed, and the blade realigned, I'll know better.
In the meantime I'm still soliciting input.
For what you are talking about spending, you might be able to find a used saw with that fence on Craigslist or FB marketplace.
Sometimes the fences show up by themselves as well
Sometimes the fences show up by themselves as well
I really don't need a new saw, or someone else's problem child.For what you are talking about spending, you might be able to find a used saw with that fence on Craigslist or FB marketplace.
Sometimes the fences show up by themselves as well
If I get into a fence, I'll buy it new.
It's not so much the money, but the time, trouble, and the question of what's it worth, not the money value, but the question of if whatever I do is worth it.
If that makes any sense.
This may muddy the waters but have you considered the Incra LS Fence System? I have one on my Sawstop and love it..
I would second the Incra. It is amazing.
I appreciate you would like new, just never discount the classifieds. My overarm blade guard was $50 because a guy burned up a motor in a larger saw. On my Craigslist there are 2 saws under $300, one with a delta Unifence and one with the Bessie. The saws are trash, but the fences look decent. Sometimes the fences pop up by themselves.
Sometimes the older stuff is even better made
Sometimes the older stuff is even better made
Biesemeyer 6ft Table Saw Fence - tools - by owner - sale
SALE PENDING Biesemeyer 6ft Table Saw Fence Item is located in Willcox, AZ
tucson.craigslist.org
And Grizzly has the Incra stuff on sale right now through January.This may muddy the waters but have you considered the Incra LS Fence System? I have one on my Sawstop and love it..
I say do a search titled something along the lines of - how to make a biesemeyer fence.
Incra.... A cabinet makers nightmare
One buddy took a unifence to the edge sander one time to straighten a curve. Not sure if you can do this on your fence...
One buddy took a unifence to the edge sander one time to straighten a curve. Not sure if you can do this on your fence...
Why is an Incra a cabinet makers nightmare? Not trying to pick an argument, but I value your opinion and would like to understand what you are thinking. Thanks.Incra.... A cabinet makers nightmare
One buddy took a unifence to the edge sander one time to straighten a curve. Not sure if you can do this on your fence...
Cabinet makers rip and crosscut and Leave there parts to the right of the fence. Incra doesn't allow this....we often will need to cut a sheet to 48" a cross as well...
Incra is pretty though. Just not for me..
But to be fair, when I was I wood shop in the late 70's we didn't know what Incra was so most of us have had training in old tools which are still in service today.
Sometimes you can't teach old dogs new tricks...
So if you open your wallet and see a Incra Saw fence, in there, by all means pick up the phone and buy it...
Incra is pretty though. Just not for me..
But to be fair, when I was I wood shop in the late 70's we didn't know what Incra was so most of us have had training in old tools which are still in service today.
Sometimes you can't teach old dogs new tricks...
So if you open your wallet and see a Incra Saw fence, in there, by all means pick up the phone and buy it...
Use your shimmed fence until the back order comes in. Six to 8 weeks will pass by quickly.
Found this pdf of the manual if you don't have one. DELTA 36-465 INSTRUCTION MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib
Found this pdf of the manual if you don't have one. DELTA 36-465 INSTRUCTION MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib
I'd also recommend the Incra...it's an amazing fence and the optional joinery system is very good.This may muddy the waters but have you considered the Incra LS Fence System? I have one on my Sawstop and love it..
The only issues are the price, the long 15 week lead time and the space you loose on the table to the right of the fence. The exact repeatability of cuts and never having to bump and pray again makes this worth it.
This is a purchase that I don't regret. I've recommended this product to friends and colleagues before. One of my old Air Force friends made the purchase as well back in September and just received his Incra fence on Christmas Eve.
Man, that thing sure eats a lot of the saw's table top. Beside that, the poster's saw is one with steel, not cast iron extensions and it may not be easy or even possible to add much more width. There is also the question of space. The poster's saw is a contractor's saw, which is nice and compact. A saw wide enough to mount the Incra LS may not fit in a smaller shop. All considerations. I like precision, but I don't have space for a wider saw in my shop, which is a shed about the same size as half a garage.
I had a conversation on another wood working forum with a guy that was looking to put this incra fence on his contractors saw. He had a similar space issue in his shop, specifically the location he rolled his table saw to when it wasn't being used. We exchanged a few replies and eventually I made a short video for him showing/explaining how much space the fence could potentially take up, depending on where he mounted the positioner.Man, that thing sure eats a lot of the saw's table top. Beside that, the poster's saw is one with steel, not cast iron extensions and it may not be easy or even possible to add much more width. There is also the question of space. The poster's saw is a contractor's saw, which is nice and compact. A saw wide enough to mount the Incra LS may not fit in a smaller shop. All considerations. I like precision, but I don't have space for a wider saw in my shop, which is a shed about the same size as half a garage.
In the picture I included in my original post and in the video link below I have the Incra positioned 42" to the right of the blade which is what is needed to get the maximum reach to the blade. With the positioner set at 42" the incra fence can be used for about a 30 1/2" cut (which is the max reach of the arm that connects the fence to the positioner). If you have the longer rails you can get up to a 52" cut to the right of the blade.
The positioner can be mounted closer to the blade to save space or it can be moved farther away to get a bigger cut. This fence can fit on just about any saw but whether stored or in-use it does take up a lot of real-estate.
This fence is certainly not cheap, but it is in-line with other fences out there. I think the shorter version of this fence with the 72" rails is selling for just under $420 right now. The bigger version with the 92" rails is $525. I thought it was expensive when I purchased it earlier this year but I was surprised to find out that the Shop Fox classic fence/rail setup that came with my Grizzly table saw actually sells for over $400.
I don't know if any one is interested in this...17 in-depth videos to install Incra table saw system on a Bosch portable table saw. Extremely well done.
I had a delta contractors TS with a Biesemeyer fence , so I’m for the Bies all the way.
sure made life a lot better once dialed in
sure made life a lot better once dialed in
Thanks for all the replies people!
I decided last night to take a different approach.
I got myself all jazzed up about a new fence, then became enamoured with all the fancy bells and whistles out there.
That was shortly followed by a feeling of becoming overwhelmed.
I decided to take the old school approach and instead of just throwing my old toaster away and being a good little consumer and buying a new one, I elected to try to fix the one I have.
I set the fence in line with a miter slot, locked it down, then clamped it in place.
Using a very large squeeze clamp, I slowly drew the fence in the opposite direction of the bow.
Over extending the bow and checking it numerous times, slowly sneaking up on it, I was able to pull almost all of the 25 thousands of curve out of the fence, getting the runout down to a mere few thousandths.
I lightly sanded all the nicks and scrapes out of the bottom of the fence, then I proceeded to fine tune the handle and t-square adjustments.
After that I removed the worn out plastic on the clamping faces, and glued on something new using some of that plastic packaging that everything comes in these days.
After that, I again took to some light sanding, then some 000 steel wool, and polished the trough.
I think I have the fence straight enough now to make accurate cuts, and it operates on the table a whole heck of a lot smoother.
I will spend a little more time on it today looking for any other fine details that need attention, but I think all in all, it will live.
I decided last night to take a different approach.
I got myself all jazzed up about a new fence, then became enamoured with all the fancy bells and whistles out there.
That was shortly followed by a feeling of becoming overwhelmed.
I decided to take the old school approach and instead of just throwing my old toaster away and being a good little consumer and buying a new one, I elected to try to fix the one I have.
I set the fence in line with a miter slot, locked it down, then clamped it in place.
Using a very large squeeze clamp, I slowly drew the fence in the opposite direction of the bow.
Over extending the bow and checking it numerous times, slowly sneaking up on it, I was able to pull almost all of the 25 thousands of curve out of the fence, getting the runout down to a mere few thousandths.
I lightly sanded all the nicks and scrapes out of the bottom of the fence, then I proceeded to fine tune the handle and t-square adjustments.
After that I removed the worn out plastic on the clamping faces, and glued on something new using some of that plastic packaging that everything comes in these days.
After that, I again took to some light sanding, then some 000 steel wool, and polished the trough.
I think I have the fence straight enough now to make accurate cuts, and it operates on the table a whole heck of a lot smoother.
I will spend a little more time on it today looking for any other fine details that need attention, but I think all in all, it will live.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
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