[Blind Bruce]

I would like to know how the bits are tightened on the Tritons.
1) with one wrench?
2) With two wrenches?
If one wrench, how does the motor lock?
1) easy?
2) With great difficulty such as my new Rona router. This is a VERY inexpensive unit and it shows. To lock the motor I have to reach inside, next to the bit and push a very small insert that has a VERY strong spring. My fingers hurt every time I change bits.
So, I am considering a Triton @ $199
If the lock is convenient or I can use two wrenches.
Bruce in the Peg

 

[template tom]

Triton have an automatic locking system as you wind it up to change the cutter with the one spanner Great!!!!!
It also has a safety control as the on/off switch is disengaged at the same time Great for Router table work.
But as I do a great deal of plunge routing it is not suitable for that mode(I do have one in the table).
If you are only going to have one router pick one suitable for both modes
Tom

 

[Mike]

Bruce, are you planning on strictly using this router in a table or for free hand use as well? I feel very strongly that the best overall situation is to purchase one of the combo kits. Although these models have slightly less power than the Triton they are more versitile. My personal choice is the Bosch 1617 and I would encourage anyone looking to buy a router to at least examine one in your hands. The Hitachi KM12VS is slightly smaller but does include a set of guide bushings and is the best value for the least money. I also own a PC 690 series combo kit, a 7518 and a Rockwell which is the same as the PC 100. All of these are fine routers but the feel and controls on the Bosch made it my first choice. Just some things to consider.

 

[curiousgeorge]

Hi Bruce,
I have the Triton 2 1/2. It is an excellent machine for mounting in a table and has the above table adjustment as you can see below. You simply wind the collet up above the table, the locking system locks in (no buttons to push) and the on/off switch is disabled at the same time (a great safety feature). With the locking system you only need one wrench to change bits and it has both 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets along with a lot of other extras.
:sold:

 

[bobj3]

Hi George

I have a question for you ?
I have not had a Triton in my hands but it looks like a great router, do you use a remote switch to turn it on or off in the router table and if so will the system lock the shaft when it's off.
Or do you need to turn it off with the power switch on the router to lock the router to change the bits ?


Bj

 

[curiousgeorge]

Hey Bj,
I have added an on/off switch to the table since the pic in the previous post. You have to press the switch on the router itself to the off position. Then when you bring the router to the bit changing position the collet is locked and a plastic shield slides over the on/off switch to prevent accidentally turning it on. To power back up you have to lower the router out of the lock position before you can slide the shield back and switch on. With the switch in the on position the shield is held back by the switch itself. The switch is lighted any time power is applied to the switch even when in the off position. A nice little reminder to un-plug the unit before doing any bit changes, etc.

 

[bobj3]

Thanks George

That's what I needed to know

Your new table is looking good by the way,I see you put the slot in the front door that should work to help the air flow.

May I give you a tip,,,,think about your vac. system as your Drain system just like your house ,that's to say flip some of your 4" hose fitting around so the junk can move out and can't jam at the fittiing.
All the chips that go down the tupe are not small sometimes it will be long one and get jamed at the fitting and then you will have a 2" hole then it wil become a 1" hole size and then 0" and because it's black plastic will take a bit of time to find the jam and clean it out.


Bj

 

[Blind Bruce]

What about the springs?

I plan to use the Triton in my Oak Park table. Do I remove the springs? If so , are they (it) easy?

 

[Joe Lyddon]

Hi Bruce,
I have the Triton 2 1/2. It is an excellent machine for mounting in a table and has the above table adjustment as you can see below. You simply wind the collet up above the table, the locking system locks in (no buttons to push) and the on/off switch is disabled at the same time (a great safety feature). With the locking system you only need one wrench to change bits and it has both 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets along with a lot of other extras.
:sold:

Several months ago, I saw the Triton on sale... was about to buy one... Checked a few reviews, etc.... Comments about the bit ht. adjustment being slightly flaky (hard to adjust easily)... so I cancelled my order.

Later, I eventually got a Hitachi M12sc combo and really like it... can't adj from top, but it's not hard to do from below. I also just pop it out of the table, just like in the RWS programs, for bit changing.

It sounds like there is just a "technique" required to adjust the Triton bit height and there was really NO PROBLEM with it at all! Problem is who do you believe in Reviews, etc.?? How do you really find out the straight scoop?!

 

[Maurice]

Hi:
I have a Triton 31/4 hp. It's a bit heavier but otherwise all things are the same as the 21/2hp.
It uses one wrench. The switch has to be off, then you can raise the collet all the way up and the lock snaps in. You can do it because it's above the table.
It's not too difficult. The collet is 1/2 inch with a sleeve for 1/4 inch bits. The raiser is buile in and easy to adjust.
If you plan to remove the spring..be careful. It's about 18 inches long compressed into about 8 inches and when you remove the cap, it just explodes.
I am really enjoying it mounted in my Oak Park type table.
So there y'are Bruce in the Peg..Winnipeg??? Kinda cold there eh?
Mo.

 

[Joe Lyddon]

Hi:
I have a Triton 31/4 hp. ...
If you plan to remove the spring..be careful. It's about 18 inches long compressed into about 8 inches and when you remove the cap, it just explodes....
Mo.

Mo, do you have the springs IN or OUT?
Does it make a big difference?

Thank you.

 

[curiousgeorge]

Hi Joe,
I haven't removed the springs from my 2 1/2 and it doesn't seem to make a difference if you make the adjustments from above the table. It might be a problem if you had to manually adjust it tho. As far as what to believe in the reviews I guess it's just a gut call and I don't think you can go wrong with the Hitachi combo. That's what I was considering before I ordered the Triton and I still might end up getting the combo later. (Can't have too many routers, Right?)

Maurice,
It seems the 2 1/2 differs from the 3 1/4 in the collets. Mine came with two collets 1/2 & 1/4 instead of the 1/4 insert.

 

[curiousgeorge]

Thanks for the tip Bj. I know it looks like the Y is upside down in the pic but the bottom of the Y is going to the DC and the top is coming from the fence so the junction is actually going down to the DC. I assume that is what you were talking about. I really appreciate all the help you and Mike gave on the DC question.

 

[Maurice]

Hi Joe:
Right now the spring is out because I use it in the table all the time.
It works fine that way so I haven't put it in again.
BTW, there is only one spring
Mo.

 

[dmr]

Newbie here. Are you sayng that the Triton 2 1/2 hp is Not suitable for plunge routing or did I misread?

 

[Blind Bruce]

I think that you misread somewhere. All plunge routers are good for plunge routing. It is no longer suitable for plunging IF the spring(s) are removed. The springs act to raise the router when you are done with a cut when using it "free hand" The router would stay down (plunged) with no springs creating an unsafe situation. When in a table, a router is upside down and gravity takes the place of the springs.
Bruce in the Peg

 

[dmr]

Thanks for clearing that up I'm considering buying the Triton 2 1/2 hp and will be using it primarily as a table router, but want to be able to use as a plunge router also.

 

[Blind Bruce]

Then it is best to leave the spring in.
BB

 

[curiousgeorge]

dmr The Triton was the first plunge router built specifically with the router table in mind and of course it can be used freehand also. I don't think you would be disappointed with the Triton 2 1/2. It's simply a matter of choice/preference when it comes to the brand names. So many choices... So little time :'(

 

[template tom]

Thanks for clearing that up I'm considering buying the Triton 2 1/2 hp and will be using it primarily as a table router, but want to be able to use as a plunge router also.

Dmr
The Triton Touter was first introduced on the market and as I said on my first posting it was designed for use in the router table. Yes it could have been used for plunge routing at that time but it did not come with provision for inserting template guides (Which makes plunge routing safer). They later produced a set of template guides after I had written to them re the reason for the guides I also demonstrated to them at a woodshow. Unfortunately they only listened to have of the reasons for the guides as they did not produce a large Guide.(Has anyone tried to remove the cutter with the guide in position?? It is not possible (With the set they introduced) The other problem I pointed out to them it was not convenient to use the Ski Mode. This mode is very important when you wish to have full control of the router (Plunge mode) and you wish to 'plane' a rough surface, ot to have full control when trimming and rounding over some edges.
Yes it is a great router for the router table but in my humble opinion it has it's limitation.
Here's a tip for those who purchased the kit for the template guides the 40mm Hitachi guide will fit. and then maybe you will be able to change cutters without taking out the guide????
Tom