Need some advice for a new router table

That kind of table is above my pay grade, but for a router, check out the Triton Tra001. 3.25 hp, lots of power, built in lift, easy to get top quality mounting plate (Woodpecker, thicker than most, twist lock insert) Good dust collection options.

The Triton pulls air through the motor from below, and someone suggested that you use some tubing to make a snorkle that fits up from under the table to the bottom of the router where the air intake is. Keeps the sawdust out a little better. If others are helping, it has a good safety lock built in so when you raise it to change bits, it locks the spindle and prevents it from accidentally starting.

There are many sources of cast iron tables, but be careful which you choose, some do not have standard openings for common sized mounting plates. So know what router you're buying first, then select the table. Make sure it fits the mounting plate for the router!

With the kind of work you're doing, I'd go for the largest table you can get. And since budget is pretty open, see if you can find one with a cabinet set up pre built. Although it sounds like you could knock one together PDQ.

Find a good fence, there are many out there, and it will help faciltate dust collection. Routers are second only to miter saws for producing fine sawdust. The more air flow you can get above and ariound the bit, the cleaner it will be.

Last, check out YouTube videos of Mark Sommerfeld, whose company sells router gear. He uses a setup much like what you're describing. He's an old time cabinet maker and I think they may still have a cabinet plan. His technique is fast and simple and worth watching.

Hope this helps a little.

One word does it all for me - "Incra", although admittedly that doesn't include a cast iron table.

I bought my Incra Phenolic top a few years ago and it's never given me any issues. It's too thick to warp, although of course it is well supported.

I originally had the Sidewinder lift, but due to my home-made stand arrangement, I had issues with my dust extraction, so decided to buy the Incra stand along with the Clean Sweep dust extractor box. Also, being in the UK on 240V power, I decided to use a UK router motor (which was probably made in China) which eventually burned out, so I now use a Porter Cable 3/4HP motor with a step-down transformer, donated by a friend.

I now have the equivalent of combination #3 in the following link: Incra Router Table/Fence Combos

I also have the castor wheels and the only non-standard part I've fitted is a NVR switch on the primary side of the transformer.

Given the obscene taxes and shipping charges into the UK, it's still been worth the money and the Wonder Fence is something that really lives up to its name. If you never tried one, you should seek out a hands-on demo, or at the very least watch a promotional video.

From what you describe as the typical work you do I would stay away from a cast iron top. The reason being is that I haven't seen any that are long enough. A good router table should be long enough to give solid support on both the infeed and outfeed sides. In addition unlike a table saw a router table doesn't suffer from vibration so cast iron is not necessary. A good thick laminate top (something in the range of 1 1/4") is more than enough. As for the other items on the wish list. An ordinary wall switch works fine and if wired to a receptacle can also turn the dust collection (shop vac) on at the same time that the router goes on. Dust collection is easily built into the back of the fence. And while on the subject of fences as the old saying goes a fool and his money are soon parted. NO I'M NOT SAYING YOU ARE A FOOL!!! I'm simply using that phrase for those reading about tables I would say don't get sucked into all the hype about a special $100 dollar plus fence. You won't do anything with those fences that you can't do with a $2 dollar board. Next up is a miter gauge. Besides using one to help keep a board steady while coping the ends what else is a miter gauge needed for so I just use an extra one from my table saw whenever I need one? You do need a miter slot for the gauge and also for the feather boards. Feather boards should also be used on the fence to hold the work tight to the table. Speed control is built into the router so that can be checked off the list. For a lift I use the Router Raiser It's inexpensive, from what I've seen the cheapest around, and does an excellent job without a lot of bells and whistles, but they only fit certain routers. For the plate, with inserts, I use a Rousseau along with their feather boards. For the stand as long as the metal stand has drawers that would be fine but a stand without drawers to house all the bits and other items would be a waste of floor space. Caster are a must. just like on a table saw, unless there is plenty of room on both side to run a longboard through.

Good day.

What you described is more semi commercial / production therefore what you need is a shaper and not a router most Shapers are designed for production and have most of all the characteristics that you have outlined.
you may still want the router table for small work. Once and awhile. or for using specialty bits that are cheaper to buy then the shaper knives.

Routers and shapers are very different tool.

With a shaper you can use a power feeder. The wood feeds at a very consistent speed and the cut should not have any burn marks or chatter like marks that you can get with router bits. you should have very little sanding to do with the shaper profiles versus a lot more with the router cut.

Shapers tend to be much quieter than a router. Additionally, they are much sturdier and have much less vibrations than a router. This is because a shaper has slower speeds.

they are in the price range you initially stated $2000. they are free standing can be on Wheels to be mobile. this is a ready to run solution As specified in your earlier request. note most are 220 - 240 volts ac

take the time to look at the different types and brands of shapers that are on the market they are meant to run production. where a common routers they are not designed to be production tool. I believe that's part of your problem you're trying to take a hand tool and turn into a production tool.

please note some of the new tools on the market have long lead times. Also the used Market has some very good machines available with very little runtime.
happy hunting.

WurliTzerwilly said:

One word does it all for me - "Incra", although admittedly that doesn't include a cast iron table.

I bought my Incra Phenolic top a few years ago and it's never given me any issues. It's too thick to warp, although of course it is well supported.

I originally had the Sidewinder lift, but due to my home-made stand arrangement, I had issues with my dust extraction, so decided to buy the Incra stand along with the Clean Sweep dust extractor box. Also, being in the UK on 240V power, I decided to use a UK router motor (which was probably made in China) which eventually burned out, so I now use a Porter Cable 3/4HP motor with a step-down transformer, donated by a friend.

I now have the equivalent of combination #3 in the following link: Incra Router Table/Fence Combos

I also have the castor wheels and the only non-standard part I've fitted is a NVR switch on the primary side of the transformer.

Given the obscene taxes and shipping charges into the UK, it's still been worth the money and the Wonder Fence is something that really lives up to its name. If you never tried one, you should seek out a hands-on demo, or at the very least watch a promotional video.

Click to expand...

I agree with everything you said about Incra as this is the setup I have in my shop. The only "nit picking" is "It"s too thick to warp". My primary Incra system is 4+ years old and I recently had to readjust the plate position. I also have a 2nd Incra system that I purchased at a "widows tool sale" (age unknown) and the table had sagged about 0.020" in the middle of the span. This may not sound like much but a 0.020" lip will bring your stock to a sudden halt. I consumed hours trying to bend it back in place but it would always spring back to its original position. Finally, I got it to bend back close to its original position. The only thing I can figure out is my summer cooling is an evaporative cooler so my humidity is high. If purchasing a new router table, I would not hesitate to purchase another Incra system. Whatever you buy, make sure your have under-the-table dust collection.