[sgcz75b]

I just installed new garage doors and am looking for a way to protect them from sawdust, grinder debris, and other workshop materials. As I put many of my cutting tools near the door to be able to raise the garage doors and blow out the left-over detritus, it didn't matter so much with my old wooden garage doors. But now with my insulated doors, I want to protect them.

I can attach cardboard/heavy craft paper, or drop-cloths to the door while it's closed, but I would like something that can ride with the doors as they open without dropping down into the work area.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

So happy to have found this forum and have found the information so useful. Thanks.

 

[difalkner]

Welcome to the forum, Steve!

What sort of dust collection do you have in place? I collect most of the dust from the source with shop vac and dust collector and I have a filtered fan recirculating air in the shop, so there's very little airborne dust to get on the garage door. For the grinder I'd put a deflector at the exhaust port to keep that from spreading around the room.

Got any photos of your set up?

David

 

[sgcz75b]

I have a shop-vac system using the Home Depot Dustopper that works surprisingly well. Easy to hook-up to each tool or situation, but some sawdust and crap always manages to avoid the vacuum. At the end of the day I take my leaf-blower, raise the doors and blow out the garage from back to front which is not a problem. I just want to keep my garage doors white and as spotless as possible. Thanks.

No photos as I'm re-arranging tool placement as I'm looking to add a router table, table saw, and band saw soon as I make-up my mind as what to get.

Thanks.

 

[DesertRatTom]

Assuming it's a roll up type door. Get some thin white board in sheets. Cut them into segments to fit the door. These will protect the door, but this will add weight so you'll have to reset the spring tension--I hired that done, those springs can break an arm in a flash. You can also get some foam insulation sheets to put under the white board. I put some aluminized bubble sheets of radiant barrier behind the insulation to cut down on heat transfer through the door (heat coming in during summer, out in winter). Repair damaged spots with white gaffer's tape.

 

[sgcz75b]

Solved (for now). While moving things about I found this plastic tarp. Attached with zip ties, old rope, and with a healthy dose of duct tape. Had to move the garage door sensors out a few inches but it should do the trick for a while. The door is already insulated to R12 and good weather-stripping sealing on the exterior. My old door was wooden and had no insulation. Today, even in the low 20s outside the garage was a balmy 64 with no heat. Since it's partially covered by dirt and heated building on three sides, it should remain pleasant winter and summer.

And thanks for your "17 things" article. A great read and I immediately ordered the Bill Hylton book. I've placed your pdf on my computer desktop for quick reference.
Thanks again.
Steve

 

[Stick486]

Hello Steve and welcome to the forums...
how about poly-coated paper sheets...

seeing you are the new guy... We have some reading for ya at this link that just may be of some help/use to you...

 

[sgcz75b]

Thanks! I love to read and study about all my interests. I appreciate it!

Steve

 

[old55]

Welcome to the forum Steve.

 

[DesertRatTom]

To avoid the sag, consider using double sided carpet tape on the steel door. It should greatly reduce the sag, and it will look fairly good as well. Thanks for the comment on the 17 things article. I update it from time to time, particularly after adding a new tool, or learning a new lesson.

 

[sgcz75b]

Good idea about the carpet tape. This was a quickie fix, though I've noticed that sometimes quickie fixes become decades-long fixes!

 

[rkaligian]

I used 1/2" thick foam insulation board purchased at a Big Box. Cut the foam to fit each door panel, then attached with carpet tape. In addition to the protection it gives, a bonus is the insulation it adds, both thermal and sound insulation.

 

[sreilly]

Welcome to the forum Steve. As you already see we have a ton of help and suggestions. At our local rescue squad building we have insulated panels with a thick foil like cover on the doors for added insulation that have held up very well the 7 years I've been there and they were there before I started.

 

[peterbata]

Coroplast

 

[Nickp]

Welcome, Steve...

Generally, anything plastic will collect dust (of any type) due to static electricity. Sawdust will not damage the door and ultimately it will be easier to clean with nothing on it. In any event, anything you put up will allow dust to get behind it unless you seal it completely...

I suggest doing nothing and enjoy the shop build...

 

[MYB506]

I used boat shrink wrap to cover my door. The marina where I kept my sailboat uses it to cover boats for the winter. It's a "use only once" product so I was able to find a large sheet of it in the garbage one spring when they were uncovering the boats. It works great.

 

[hawkeye10]

Good idea about the carpet tape. This was a quickie fix, though I've noticed that sometimes quickie fixes become decades-long fixes!

Steve, are you going to cover the walls also? I don't worry about the walls or the door. My wife has a metal cabinet that she keeps some of her Christmas dishes in and dust gets in there even tho the doors stay shut. If you have a door going directly from your shop into the house your house will get dust in it.

PS- Don't tell your wife. :grin:

 

[sgcz75b]

PS- Don't tell your wife. :grin:

I have three ex-wives; they don't care and probably hope I get black lung.:smile:

 

[DaninVan]

Late to the party here, but my choice, if I was going to do what you're suggesting, would be cork. It comes in very flexible rolls; the hardwood floor dept. will have it...used for underlay.

 

[Stick486]

padded contact paper....

 

[Herb Stoops]

I would use those camo Harbor Freight moving blankets,they will insulate and sound proof, and look cool.
Herb