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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After posting, reading, listening and looking I finally settled on a Rikon 10-325 Deluxe 14 inch. It has a 1 1/2 hp motor, 2 speeds, up to 3/4 in blade, 13+ resaw and other "workhorse" stuff.

The blade is not very good so looking for recommendations for a 1/2 and 3/4 (resaw)...

I also offer a tip for improved guide adjustment...each of the bearings have a washer on the base side, a plastic collar/spacer for the screw. I decided, after fighting the adjustment changing when tightening, that the collar and washer needed to trade places. This provides a much larger and smoother surface that keeps the bearing in alignment while tightening it after micro adjusting. WHAT A DIFFERENCE...

I read lots of posts that recommend Carter bearings immediately...I honestly believe my quick mod makes enough of a difference to avoid the extra expense.

But I do need help for a couple of blades to last past my "novice ness"...

Thanks in advance...Nick
 

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Nick
I like the Timberwolf blades. Woodcraft carries them and the prices range from 28 - 40 dollars if I remember correctly. They last pretty well for me, just remember to release the tension when not in use. A friend of mine likes the Olsen line, although I don't think they are as good as the timberwolfs. I'm sure other members will chime in on this.
 

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Congratulations on the bandsaw Nick... very nice saw!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nick
I like the Timberwolf blades. Woodcraft carries them and the prices range from 28 - 40 dollars if I remember correctly. They last pretty well for me, just remember to release the tension when not in use. A friend of mine likes the Olsen line, although I don't think they are as good as the timberwolfs. I'm sure other members will chime in on this.
Thank you, Wayne...can you comment on TPI...? for general use on 1/2 and 3/4 wood...? And am I right to go with 3 or 4 TPI for resaw...? I'm thinking the most I'll be resawing for a while is cutting down 3/4's for project wood...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Congratulations on the bandsaw Nick... very nice saw!
Thank you, Jim...I'll be having some fun soon I'm sure...and I'm guessing another reason for more posts :)
 

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Nick, I almost bought that saw, it was my first choice until I found the killer deal offered on the Steel City 14" Deluxe model. Watch the band saw adjustment video in the sticky thread, I learned a great deal from it. I bought a Timberwolf blade for resawing, No complaints so far. I am planning on adding a Carter stabilizer for use with narrow blades as suggested in the video. Here is a link to the item: Steel City 14" by Carter Products
 

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I have the same saw and use Timberwolf but in the 1/2" size not the 3/4. For resawing you want a thick blade I don't remember the thickness but if you call them they can set you straight. The Woodcraft near me didn't carry the thicker blade so I went with what they had but wish I had waited. Interesting suggestion about the bearing I haven't noticed any problem with the set up as it is what would turning the bearing do besides adding a bit more distance on the back side? One thing to check every now and then is the belt tightness. I thought I had a motor problem not realizing that the knob on the base was for tightening and loosing the belt. I had turned it and not seeing anything happening walked away from it. After experiencing a problem I looked at the owners manual and realized I had loosened the tension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I have the same saw and use Timberwolf but in the 1/2" size not the 3/4. For resawing you want a thick blade I don't remember the thickness but if you call them they can set you straight. The Woodcraft near me didn't carry the thicker blade so I went with what they had but wish I had waited. Interesting suggestion about the bearing I haven't noticed any problem with the set up as it is what would turning the bearing do besides adding a bit more distance on the back side? One thing to check every now and then is the belt tightness. I thought I had a motor problem not realizing that the knob on the base was for tightening and loosing the belt. I had turned it and not seeing anything happening walked away from it. After experiencing a problem I looked at the owners manual and realized I had loosened the tension.
Thank you, Art...the plastic sleeve and collar in the bearing looks like it sleeves the smaller screw...by putting the bigger and plastic surface on the inside it allows for SLIGHT loosening of the screw (about 1/4 turn) for adjustment and does not allow the bearing to twist when the screw is otherwise loose. (...as a possible analogy, using a short fence versus a taller one ?...) The plastic also allows for smoother movement between the surfaces and so the bearing stays where it was adjusted when tightened. I had initially tried a slightly bigger diameter washer but was still binding between the mount and the bearing. I used the technique in the sticky video and it worked like a charm. It is possible that I may have taken care of a different problem and not recognized it, i.e., bad washer, big thumbs, etc... I have looked at the carter guide and it is on my list. Right now I am concentrating on which blades to buy...Timberwolf seems to be on the top of my list (PC 3/4x.032 and 1/4x.025) I thought I was going to buy a 1/2 and 3/4 but videos and reviews is now pointing me to the 1/4. I'm trying not to buy too many initially...I'm sure I will wind up with a collection one of these days... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Nick, I almost bought that saw, it was my first choice until I found the killer deal offered on the Steel City 14" Deluxe model. Watch the band saw adjustment video in the sticky thread, I learned a great deal from it. I bought a Timberwolf blade for resawing, No complaints so far. I am planning on adding a Carter stabilizer for use with narrow blades as suggested in the video. Here is a link to the item: Steel City 14" by Carter Products
Thank you, Mike...I remember your earlier recommendation for the Steel City Deluxe but couldn't pass up the deal on the Rikon...about $4 BUC's (Bandsaw Unit of Currency = $100). I have watched videos on the Carter guide and it is really impressive...imagine, just have the fence within 1/4" and it cuts straight...MAGIC (FM?)

I have a bunch of scrap that I'm going to "repurpose"... First use will be a box for my sextant...

toys, what would we do without 'em :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
So let me see if I'm getting it straight...I am on the PS Wood site and it looks like if I want to cut hardwood, softwood and plywood, MDF, composite I would get the 1/4 x 8 x 0.025 and it would let me cut the typical sizes of wood. I would use this as my "one blade does it all" blade...? (except for resaw)... I guess I need to pick PC/RK...? Or did I understand the site and 1/4 automatically gets me the RK...? (So much to learn, so little time...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
...just got my 1/2" Wood Slicer from Highland...now I'm anxious to make some sawdust...YAHOOO-OOO...
 

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The 3/4" blade can't be properly tensioned on a 14" band saw. I am using 1/2" & 3/4" Haltbar blades for my resaw job. For your band saw , 1/2" is pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The 3/4" blade can't be properly tensioned on a 14" band saw. I am using 1/2" & 3/4" Haltbar blades for my resaw job. For your band saw , 1/2" is pretty good.
"The 3/4" blade can't be properly tensioned on a 14" band saw"

Thank you, Jack...can you elaborate a bit on tensioning 3/4" blade...? Is that for all 14's in general or my Rikon...? Specs say 3/4" blade is good and there is plenty of tensioning left on the hardware.

Signed, concerned...

Thanks, Nick
 

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"The 3/4" blade can't be properly tensioned on a 14" band saw"

Thank you, Jack...can you elaborate a bit on tensioning 3/4" blade...? Is that for all 14's in general or my Rikon...? Specs say 3/4" blade is good and there is plenty of tensioning left on the hardware.

Signed, concerned...

Thanks, Nick

As far as I know, thicker blades can't be properly tensioned to smaller saws . Most wood workers would use 0.25 inch thick blade for any 14 inch bandsaw. Using blades that are thicker than 0.25inch on 14 saws would cause to bladebreakage and metal fatigue. I don't own a Rikon 10-325 but I have 14 inch bandsaw. But I knew someone that he strictly uses 1/2 " blade for his Rikon . I don't know what's the real deal with that but he just mentioned that he got smoother cuts and got no issues with the tracking. I used 1/2 inch 0.025 thickness and 3 tpi blade ; 201 series carbon blade of sawblade.com .
 

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As far as I know, thicker blades can't be properly tensioned to smaller saws . Most wood workers would use 0.25 inch thick blade for any 14 inch bandsaw. Using blades that are thicker than 0.25inch on 14 saws would cause to bladebreakage and metal fatigue. I don't own a Rikon 10-325 but I have 14 inch bandsaw. But I knew someone that he strictly uses 1/2 " blade for his Rikon . I don't know what's the real deal with that but he just mentioned that he got smoother cuts and got no issues with the tracking. I used 1/2 inch 0.025 thickness and 3 tpi blade ; 201 series carbon blade of sawblade.com .
There are many 3/4" .025" blades available. I don't see your point.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family/2004810/timber-wolf-bandsaw-blades.aspx
 

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After posting, reading, listening and looking I finally settled on a Rikon 10-325 Deluxe 14 inch. It has a 1 1/2 hp motor, 2 speeds, up to 3/4 in blade, 13+ resaw and other "workhorse" stuff.
Heck of a saw Nick... hopefully I can settle on that bandsaw one glorious day!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Heck of a saw Nick... hopefully I can settle on that bandsaw one glorious day!
Excellent point...settle was definitely wrong choice for my decision...a 2x4 across the noggin is always a good thing... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There was a little confusion with my previous comment. I was only talking about the thickness. 3/4" blades are too wide for 14" saws ,you might have problems also with the tension mechanism.
Thank you, Jack...I think you are referring to how much blade needs to be on the tire after tuning per Alex Snodgrass (tooth in middle of tire)... I am going to put the stock blade back on as it actually measured 5/8", tune it per Alex and see how much tire is left. If you are referring to the thickness (.035 vs .025 blades) I read about that possibility and how the blade tries not to bend on 14" wheels and had intended to purchase a thinner 3/4 to cover that point. I really appreciate you pointing this out and will investigate further...thanks...Nick
 

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Thanks for posting, Nick. My 10-325 arrived today (I "settled", too!), replacing a smaller benchtop that has outlasted its usefulness. I hope to have some time this weekend to set it up. Any other setup tips or learnings in your first few weeks that might make things easier for me? Appreciate your bearing idea, but had already ordered the Carters due to prior experience.

After posting, reading, listening and looking I finally settled on a Rikon 10-325 Deluxe 14 inch. It has a 1 1/2 hp motor, 2 speeds, up to 3/4 in blade, 13+ resaw and other "workhorse" stuff.

The blade is not very good so looking for recommendations for a 1/2 and 3/4 (resaw)...

I also offer a tip for improved guide adjustment...each of the bearings have a washer on the base side, a plastic collar/spacer for the screw. I decided, after fighting the adjustment changing when tightening, that the collar and washer needed to trade places. This provides a much larger and smoother surface that keeps the bearing in alignment while tightening it after micro adjusting. WHAT A DIFFERENCE...

I read lots of posts that recommend Carter bearings immediately...I honestly believe my quick mod makes enough of a difference to avoid the extra expense.

But I do need help for a couple of blades to last past my "novice ness"...

Thanks in advance...Nick
 
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