New - Boxjoint Cutting feed direction

2072 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by bobj3, Jul 4, 2006

Makavelli

Discussion Starter · Jul 4, 2006

Okay guys i'm just bought a router table because i want to make a speaker cabinet using box joints and thought the router would be the neatest way to do this, plus i have always wanted one - unfortunately i haven't the first clue about routing so i'm hoping someone can help me here.

I have been able to do lots of searching on box joint jigs and have decided to use what seems to be the simplest to make involving the indexing pin. My question is how do i actually cut the slots? So far i have been clamp the wood to the fence and then pulling it towards me over the router bit but i'm not so sure if this is the correct procedure or not. Two problems i am having are that my 3/4" ply is splintering and secondly my table is just the ryobi bench top hobbyist one, when i unscrew the locking nuts to adjust the fence this then leads to sideways movement (due to slack) as well forwards and back thus making it hard to control when passing over the bit. Was wondering if i should be taking the fencing of the table altogether and approach the bit from the side using some sort of modified mitre fence.

Any help would be much appreciated.

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mpphoto

· #2 · Jul 4, 2006

Hey Makavelli,

Box joints were my first interest as well. I actually went ahead and bought the box joint jig from Oak Park; it's the same one they use on The Router Workshop and it seems like the easiest solution. You can find the jigs at http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj-- I got the 3/8 size. When using the jig there is no need for the router table fence. You clamp the jig down to your router table.

It was difficult for me to understand how this all works until I saw it in action, then it was very simple. Try to catch a few episodes of The Router Workshop at http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com/ Bob and Rick use the jig frequently. You can also find some helpful info here: http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html

Good luck and have fun-
Michael

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Makavelli

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 4, 2006

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately i live in the UK so oak-park is not a viable option. The other problem i have is that the jig mentioned is to be used with the oak park table so how do i use it on another table? I suppose the spacer fence idea is easy to make but that still leaves me unsure as to what way to feed the timber onto the the router bit, right to left, front to back, back to front i'm a afraid i can't tell from the pictures.

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mpphoto

· #4 · Jul 4, 2006

I had intended to make one but it was easier to simply buy it. I understand shipping costs to the UK would make it a less viable option. It seems easy enough to make your own version.

The jig can simply be clamped down to any table and the feed direction is to push the wood away from you. I intend to build a pushblock to help me hold the wood pieces straight when passing them over the router bit. You do the front/back at the same time by clamping the two pieces of wood together. You can do the same for the sides except that you need to offset the box joint cuts so that everything will fit together. It's complicated to explain but very easy when you see it done. You should try to catch a few episodes of The Router Workshop to see what I mean.

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Bob N

· #5 · Jul 4, 2006

From watching Bob and Rick, I believe you want your jig on the "right" hand side of the router blade properly spaced and then you will "push" your wood into the blade along the box joint jig.

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Bob N

· #6 · Jul 4, 2006

mpphoto....

we darn near collided on our reply

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bobj3

· #7 · Jul 4, 2006

Makavelli
You can order and get the jigs from Oak-Park via.UPS (see link below) and it's one of the best jigs Oak-Park sells,you will be happy you sent off for them the 1st. time you use them.

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--

They are easy to setup on any router table,just drill 4 holes in your top and with 4ea.1/4-20 x 2" Phil.Flat head machine screws and 4 ea. 1/4-20 wing nuts (or 4ea. 1/4-20 T-Nuts) and you are set to make box joints.
Just set them on the table with the right bit in place ,use the brass setup bars to set the jig in place, clamp it down and drill your holes to lock them down.
Note ***all 3 jigs have the same predrilled holes in them.
You would always push the stock in from the front side of your router table,into the bit.
I do recommend that you order the BRASS SETUP BARS at the same time,they will make your setup quick and easy and true.
You can use the jigs to make boxes plus more,like a cabinet that needs a box joint on a long stock i.e. 48" long or what every it's needs to be.
Try that with the other box joints fixtures on the market today.
I use it all the time to make drawers that are quick and easy and strong for cabinet work,they are as strong as a dovetail joints and take 1/10 the time to make.
Do use the Carb.bits to make your slots,you will need the extra height of the bit because the jig is 1/2" thick and you will need to cut 3/4" deep the norm.(1/2" and 3/8" slots) the 1/4" will work great on 1/2" thick stock or less.

Hope this helps
Bj

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Makavelli

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jul 4, 2006

guys thanks for all your help, one final thing.

On the push block the only pictures i have seen relate to pushing down on a flat piece of wood. When making box joints the wood obviously doesn't lie flat on the table as it's up in the air, how do you get the pressure on the wood? Is it all done by hand? I have seen the picture on oak park where it shows the push block used behind the wood but the wood isn't secured to the block in anyway so what is there to stop it tilting?

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bobj3

· #9 · Jul 4, 2006

Makavelli

" stop it tilting"= you,,,,the easy way is to clamp 2 boards together this will help hold it sq. to the top and in the guide.(longer slot to stay in)
You can do more than two at a time but two works the best.(because of the offset ones)
Use a Tall Push block it helps also, I use a 4" x 5" x 6" long push block

Bj

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