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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that I just joined this forum and mentioned that I just finished building my router table and some have asked for me to post a few pictures so....

This is the whole table. The base is 24" wide x 20" deep and 34" high (3/4 mdf). There is a door on each side that houses the bits and can be used for some tools and the middle section is the dust collection area. I used two layers of mdf...3/4" ontop of a 1/2 piece and covered each side with lam. covering and then trimmed the whole thing out in oak - for the top. I cut out the middle for the base plate and I installed set screws in each corner and middle of the plate for fine adjustments to the table. I built the fence mainly out of 3/4 mdf but used solid wood for the braces to hold everthing square. I installed "Miter T-track" for the fence to be adjusted on. I had intented to just use t-track but this worked out a lot better. I then treaded the miter track and once the knobs are tightened, they pull the miter track up tight inside of the miter t-track and the fence is solid. This took me some time to do but with 2 knobs on each side, the fence rides pretty much dead on square to the front of the base plate and table. I can also remove one set from each side and allow the fence to be at different angles if need. And by loosening the knobs and loosening one of the clamps for the upper dust collection hose, the whole unit slides right off the back.
I think I need to install a t-track infront of the base plate for featherboards and such but just haven't done that yet which will be real easy to do. The upper part of the fence has a t-track for the featherboard and the two boards below them slide in and out of clearance of the different size bits. (Easy to replace down the road... they are 4" high by 16" long and the round head bolts are in the middle. The back part of the fence has slots to allow them front boards to be slide in and out.)
I took a lot of ideas from all the tables that I looked at and came up with the one that I have. Most of it turned out ok. I might install a door in the bottom section of the base so more things can be stored there and out of sight. Oh... the switch on the side was nice. I have to lift the red piece to turn the router on but if needed, I can use my leg or slap the red bar to shut the router down. It also has a key that can be pulled so the switch can't be turned on.







There may be some things that I could have done differently but all in all... I feel that it turned out pretty good and so far it has worked very well. All I had to work with while building this table was a very small table saw, a circular saw and the new Dewalt router that I just got. took me some time on a few things but I made it work.
When I set up a certain bit, I measure the back of the fence for reference points that I keep logged in a book. Also on the 45 miter bit that I've been messing with, I can measure from the bottom of the feather board piece on the fence down to the top of the bit for another reference point.

Any and all comments or suggestions are welcome.
Hope this may help someone else that is looking or thinking about building their own.
 

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Have you put the pictures into your Gallery ?
They are not showing up in the post ( which is good for people on slow dialups like me)..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry everyone. When I uploaded the pictures... I had them set to .JPG instead of .jpg. My bad. I couldn't find an area on my profile to store pictures...yet. Maybe since I'm new..I don't have it yet.
Sorry for the trouble
 

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Now THAT's a TABLE!!!

Sorry everyone. When I uploaded the pictures... I had them set to .JPG instead of .jpg. My bad. I couldn't find an area on my profile to store pictures...yet. Maybe since I'm new..I don't have it yet.
Sorry for the trouble
Hi Palmer,

Now THAT is a TABLE!!!

very nice work indeed!

I'm especially green with envy about the storage space!
My humble table, couldn't have storage space due to it's configuration, but I'm brainstorming that right now.

As to your pictures, I don't think it's an upper case problem... I think you'll have to wait until you get 10 posts before your album and upload a file thing is automatically incorporated.

I think you set the Y in the exhaust port coupling incorrectly though. Think of it as water flowing, from the top, it has to make one heck of a bend to get out through the sharp bend in the Y and through the rubber coupling.
You might reconsider it's use for that of a T . Also the extra holes in the front router cavity will allow air to enter, reducing the suction power. Just my observations, my friend, you said you asked for them. :D

Cordially,
Gerry
 

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Hello Palmer,

Just a comment.

A vacuum port sucking from a bottom enclosure of a router table is NOT a good idea.

Reason: The router has a fan to cool the motor. If you suck from an enclosed area, the router fan could be affected by the vacuum draft and so cannot cool the motor enough. The router motor may heat up and the coil burnt.

This is a very common mistake. Vacuum suction should be done only through the dust port of the router.

Suction from the fence at the top is correct.

Reuel
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone for the comments.
Gerard sr. - I had taken this idea ( Y vac port ) from a lot of tables... even after watching the video that Norm did on Yankee Workshop. I had put holes in the front door because I was afraid that too much suction would cause the wood to "stick" to the table as it passed over the router bit. But the holes do act as a knob so I can open the door.
reuelt - Very interesting.... I knew about the fan on the router but didn't think about the vac. system stopping it from doing its job. I might have to revisit that one. Since the router fan is at the bottom, I'll have to look and see if there is a way to built a port of sorts at the top that would suck any dust from the bit area only....and the holes in the fromt door will allow fresh air to enter the area...so the fan CAN do its job. Just have to be careful not to have too much suction so it stops the boards having a smooth glide across the table.

Wow.... really got my brain going this morning.
Thanks for the observations...... and I'm sure it can always be improved on.
 

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I still think you built a DARN FINE table!

Thanks everyone for the comments.
Gerard sr. - I had taken this idea ( Y vac port ) from a lot of tables... even after watching the video that Norm did on Yankee Workshop. I had put holes in the front door because I was afraid that too much suction would cause the wood to "stick" to the table as it passed over the router bit. But the holes do act as a knob so I can open the door.
Wow.... really got my brain going this morning.
Thanks for the observations...... and I'm sure it can always be improved on.
If it were me, I would have reversed the Y.
No big deal, someday if you get the notion, you may try it that way.

As I would think, it would work as it, but be a little more efficient with it reversed. Note the direction of the "Y"s in this diagram from a government site, actually OSHA.gov ...


or this one as another example...


also from an OSHA.gov site

Finally, for reference, here is a link to Nutone's central vacuum system PDF. On page 27 (not really a great image) it cautions about the flow in a Y connection.

I would think what you have is an extension of a system like these.
Also, many people use a shutter or valve to further direct the flow as to either make the top or bottom "suck" more.
Still it's a little thing, let's not overly dwell on it.

I still think you built a DARN FINE table!:sold:

Cordially,
Gerry
 

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The best thing about dust collection systems is to eliminate the bulk of the fine particles that are inhaled. There are many woods that are toxic and the dust is especially so. I feel that controlling the fine dust is more important than sweeping up a little sawdust. Someday, I hope to get an air cleaner after saving up a few more bucks.

It looks like you have given a good amount of thought for your table, and am sure you will enjoy working on it. Great job!
 
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