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After watching the second show on the woodworking channel I've decided to join and see what I can learn. I have used a 1.5 horse Craftsman router for over 26 years both freehand and as a biscuit joiner.

I recently bought a Craftsman Plunge router and a Porter-Cable 690 fixed-base router. After that I took my old router and a matching router of my neighbors, rehabed them and gave them to my son and daughter for continued use.

After using a router for so many years my family bought me a Sears router table but it flexed the first time I used it and made me uncomfortable. It is now my son's and I have now a BenchDog Contractor ProTop table.

This leads me to my first question. There are several countersunk holes in the insert to allow mounting of several types of routers but I can't find a hole to use for a guide pin. I assume that means that I need to drill and tap one but don't know how to locate the right position for the hole. Any ideas?
 

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Hi tipusnr. The ones I've seen seem to have them at 11 o'clock, 3 and 7 in the insert plate when looking at the fence from the front but the more experienced guys might have other ideas.
 

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Hi tipusnr

You can make one quick and easy, pickup a brass bolt that is 5/16" in dia. cut the head off the bolt and chuck it up in your drill then hold it to your belt sander or grinder and turn it down to 1/4" in dia.,that's to say remove the threads so you end up with a shoulder on the brass bolt that's 5/16" without threads now get your tap and die set out and put on some 1/4-20 threads after you have it done cut of the end so it 3/4" long of threads now cut the blank part to 1 1/4" long so you end up with a brass shoulder pin that's about 2 1/4' long.
Now take a hack saw and put in a slot in the top of the pin so you can use a screw driver to get it out if you need to.
Now to install the pin in the base plate put down some masking tape to the right hand side of the bit now chuck up a 1/4" bit now take some wood stock and set it right next to the bit move out to your right and in the base plate (not in the insert part) put a mark and drill a #7 hole now tap it out to 1/4-20 your almost done now take a counter sink and just tap the hole to clean it up a bit.
Your done putting in a safety pin.

You can also make one of the items below they work great. ▼

The 2nd picture, it's made with some scrap 3/4" MDF (3 ea. ) 1/4" clear plastic and the vac.port made with MDF, and the 2 1/2" and 3 1/4" hole saws (glued and screwed inplace)
This is the one I like to used most of the time, it takes two 1/4-20 holes in the base plate to hold it in place but I use it on my router tables because it's quick and easy to install and remove and it has the dust pickup on it and the guard. :)
Note**** I can also just undo one knob (right hand one) and just swing it back when I have a big item to do quick and easy and still pickup the chips.

Bj :)
 

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The location for the pin is not critical, it is just a pivot point to get you started. Most plates have the holes located about 6" from center. You do not need to tap and thread for the pin, just so you have a snug fit. Simply cut off a shoulder bolt and drill the proper size hole.
 

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I almost always go along with what Mike post but on this one WELL

I think you should tap the base plate you only get one shot on this one,if the hole is not right on the button (size) the pin will not stay in place and it's the last thing you want to have a pin jump out on top of the router table, it's true if you have a lathe and you can turn a pin down to the right size and then drill the hole the right size, but most don't have the equipment to do that, you can order a brass pin(s) from Oak-Park at the right price if you don't want to make your own but you can make one quick and easy for about 30 cents or so and by putting threads on it you don't need to be right on the button.

Most base plates are only 1/4" thick then if you clean the hole with a counter sink you are down to about 3/16" thick and with the 1/4-20 thread you only have 3 1/2 threads holding it in place in PLASTIC/ALUM. the norm.

A snug hole is hard to put in right if you don't do it all the time and have the right drill bit plus it should be brass just like the brass bars we all use now because we see Bob and Rick use them.
Brass will not damage a bit and bits are not cheap now days.:)

But this is just my 2 cents you do what you think is right for you. :)

Bj :)

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=BG-Pins-&product=SGP042
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=BG-Pins-&product=SGP010




aniceone2hold said:
The location for the pin is not critical, it is just a pivot point to get you started. Most plates have the holes located about 6" from center. You do not need to tap and thread for the pin, just so you have a snug fit. Simply cut off a shoulder bolt and drill the proper size hole.
 

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Hi tipusnr

I have never had to use a guide pin even when doing pattern cuts. Guide pins are only used by some people when doing pattern cuts or maybe round-over and such and when you feed a work piece from the corner and that is matter of preference or working style/habits.
Actually, I use a wood pecker router plate which is one of the best but the only gripe I’ve had with their plates is the guide pin holes. Since I NEVER use them, I wish they didn’t drill them in all their plates and at four locations.
 

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BJ? Nobody countersinks safety pin holes and simple deburring will not change material thickness. Most brands of mounting plates use plain safety pins, not threaded. Gravity is all that is needed to hole the pin in place. There is no need for the safety pin to be brass since it never comes near a router bit. Shoulder bolts have two sizes of diameter besides the threads. It is a simple matter to match this size out of a 27 piece drill bit set. As a rule you would use 3/16" or 1/4" for your hole size.
 

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Hi Mike

I'm a old machinest and I always counter sink holes botton and top if I can get to them both :) I worked for A & I Bolt for 5 years and I know about fastners ,shoulder bolts have two diameters the size of the main body and are sold by the shoulder size and the length i.e. 3/8" x 2" long and the thread size on a standard 3/8" would be 1/4-20 thread that is under cut, under the shoulder that is 5/8" to 3/4" long of thread.
The most common is the Allen Shoulder Cap screw ,you would be hard press to find a should pin on any fastner supply store brass or steel and most hardware stores don't stock them the norm.
Most shoulder bolts are made to order or to fit a item like lawn mower wheels for just one .
To find a headless shoulder bolt/pin would be a real long shot at best.
That's why I said pickup a brass bolt and use it ,brass can be reworked easy and will mill down easy unlike steel, unless you have a lathe like I do but if you are doing just one or two a hand drill will do the job fine.
When you press fit a pin in place it must be right on the button gravity will not do the job the norm, junk in junk out thing and the pin must come out easy and go back in easy, if it's worth doing it must be done right from the get go.
I have over 15 drill bit sets and I sometimes still don't have the right size drill bit sometimes :) and will end up making the one I need to do the job right.

Anyway have a good one :)

Bj :)
 

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Router

It's not a guide pin it's a safety pin :) it's made so you can get on the stock without the stock jumping out of your hands or being pull to the right hard and fast.
It's true you can use it for a guide pin but that's why they put the bearing on the bit it's the guide once you are on the stock..

Bj :)
 

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Hi Router


Hahahahahahahahahahaha LOL, count your fingers do you like them ? they are neat tools to have right :)
I think I recall you just got a new face shield , right ?

Have A Good Weekend Mate

Bj :)
 

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aniceone2hold said:
Gravity is all that is needed to hole the pin in place. There is no need for the safety pin to be brass since it never comes near a router bit.
I have the phenolic plate from MLCS, comes with 1 safety pin and 3 holes to locate it in(same plate availiable under several names). First time I used it, it popped out and started rolling towards the bit while routing some oak. Rather than grab it (too close to bit) I dropped to my knees with head below table and hit the power switch. In the few seconds it took the router to stop, I remember worrying that my wife or one of my kids would step out into the garage when it launched. It did'nt, but I hav'nt used it since, and now Bj's threaded pin sounds pretty good
 

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Rusty, this is the first report I have heard of a safety pin popping out. After many hours of use on 3 different Rousseau plates I have never had a pin come loose. I would very much like to hear from other members if they have had pins come loose, which brand of mounting plate, and if the pin was threaded or plain. Each manufacturer has their own plates although many copied the size and removeable ring features from the Rousseau plate. In the U.K. Trend has a licensing agreement to sell Rousseau plates with the Trend name and logo.
 

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Router, I know the 1st one but not to sure about the 2nd one.

"lmao" (laughing my ass/arse off)
"RBAU" (Risks, Benefits, Alternatives, and Uncertainties)


Bj :)

Router is still my name said:
Hahaha LMAO
Let's get this straight Bj, I have not one but two face shield that I wear at the same time these days one for back of my head. :)
Yes and I do like all my seven fingers. :D

RBAU :cool:
 

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Hi and welcome to the forums. I too have that router table. While it is a real nice table, it does not come with a whole as you speak. I also have grown to dis like the large hole in the top. I will be upgrading to one of the Aluminum Pro Plates that comes with 3 hole sizes, and a hole and a brass pin. It will also allow for use of PC type template guides with another purchase :) of an adapter. Anyway, welcome and have fun!

Corey
 
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