Hello everyone. Name is Byron. I have bought a Ward Powr-Kraft 2610A that I have been restoring and looking for the accessories. I have search high and low for the Router adapter 2613 with no luch. I have followed every link people have posted and came up with nothing. anyone know where I can get one.
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Hi Brex and welcome. MW was like Sears in that they didn't manufacture anything that I know of, they just bought in enough quantity that they could get it rebranded with their name. It's very old and the chances of you finding it from a parts or repair service are close to zero. Probably the only chance you have is finding one on a derelict machine which isn't much better chance.
Welcome to the forum Byron 
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Is it a part you could have machined? This is why I don't want to refurbish old machines. And welcome to the forum.
Welcome to the forum Byron. Don't give up, you must realize that not everyone sees this post automatically, give it a few days and check back. Make sure you have update auto (or whatever your preference) in email. So you know when you hit the EXACT answers you are looking for.
Plenty of knowledgeable people here.
Again, WELCOME to the forum.
Plenty of knowledgeable people here.
Again, WELCOME to the forum.
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If it's the part I think it is we've seen quite a few people coming here looking for it, none of whom were successful. It was some type of collar I believe to hook up to the high speed output on a radial saw motor if I'm guessing right. To make matters worse it was a very oddball inner diameter. We haven't seen anyone else in several years looking for it.
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Welcome to the forum Bryon. Is there a particular reason you wanted this router or do you enjoy restoring older equipment. The difference between the older and newer models usually reflect in better, safer features that make using the tool easier. Not saying older models are useless but rather they are far chancier in trying to located needed parts and manuals. Hopefully you'll find the parts you're looking for as I'm sure they exist out there but it may be a long journey. I have come across places that had new "old stock" just sitting in back rooms but that's rare but thrilling when discovered. Good luck in your quest.
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Welcome to the forum Byron
That router adaptor must have had a gear box built into it in order to change the saws motor speed 3450 rpm to 20000 rpm probably a planetary gear set. I looked at the saw manual online. I bet there where never many of those adaptors out there. Someone probably has one and doesn't even know what it is. The shaper adaptor probably just used the saw speed of 3450 rpm. You could have that adaptor made at a machine shop. Shapers turn much slower. I have a planer and a shaper adaptor for my Radial arm saw. I never use either of them. I have and old dewalt radial arm saw from about the same era that I rebuilt many years ago. It still works great. Good luck on your quest.
That router adaptor must have had a gear box built into it in order to change the saws motor speed 3450 rpm to 20000 rpm probably a planetary gear set. I looked at the saw manual online. I bet there where never many of those adaptors out there. Someone probably has one and doesn't even know what it is. The shaper adaptor probably just used the saw speed of 3450 rpm. You could have that adaptor made at a machine shop. Shapers turn much slower. I have a planer and a shaper adaptor for my Radial arm saw. I never use either of them. I have and old dewalt radial arm saw from about the same era that I rebuilt many years ago. It still works great. Good luck on your quest.
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Welcome to the forum. Try www.ereplacementparts.com and hope they might have the part. If you knew the original manufacturer, that might help, too.
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Sorry, this was supposed to be in another string. This should be removed.
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Montgomery Ward | Powr-Kraft - History | VintageMachinery.org
[Search domain vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=657] vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=657
The following 1950s Powr-Kraft model numbers were manufactured by Rockwell/Delta (Note: these are the numeric portion of the Powr-Kraft model number): 2313A; 2359A; 2486A; 2514A; 2576A; 2577; 2671A; 2739; Delta is still able to provide some of the parts.
Herb
[Search domain vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=657] vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=657
The following 1950s Powr-Kraft model numbers were manufactured by Rockwell/Delta (Note: these are the numeric portion of the Powr-Kraft model number): 2313A; 2359A; 2486A; 2514A; 2576A; 2577; 2671A; 2739; Delta is still able to provide some of the parts.
Herb
Seems Very Good
I have used it several times and it cuts through wood like butter. Better than my neighbors table saw. I rebuilt it and it runs perfect. Only thing now is making a new table top. trying to find the size so I can cut up the wood. Helpful advice is welcome. Thank you.Hey, Byron; welcome!
At the risk of sounding like a broken record ("record", a concept as old as that router
Seriously, what Charles said; wasn't and and isn't a great investment.
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Size of what? The tabletop? My old Dewalt is a 2 pce setup; side to side dimension is irrelevant on mine but the front to back is a bit tricky because the fence board gets clamped between the two table pieces. There are a couple of threaded clamping fixtures that determine the total front to back measurement.
Looks like yours is similar.
If so, adjust the clamps to the middle of their range, measure the front to back clamp distance, deduct the thickness of the fence strip, and that's your total table top front to back dimension. where the fence goes is determined by making sure the blade is completely behind the front of the fence when it's fully retracted to the rear, and the blade bottom is at tabletop surface ht. For ripping plywood, you can put the fence at the back of the back top panel...that should give you around 24" of rip width with the blade swung around to the outside of the yoke position.
It goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway!) ...make sure all the anti-kickback protection is fully functional and deployed when ripping on a Radial arm saw!!! Bad sh*t happens very fast.
Looks like yours is similar.
If so, adjust the clamps to the middle of their range, measure the front to back clamp distance, deduct the thickness of the fence strip, and that's your total table top front to back dimension. where the fence goes is determined by making sure the blade is completely behind the front of the fence when it's fully retracted to the rear, and the blade bottom is at tabletop surface ht. For ripping plywood, you can put the fence at the back of the back top panel...that should give you around 24" of rip width with the blade swung around to the outside of the yoke position.
It goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway!) ...make sure all the anti-kickback protection is fully functional and deployed when ripping on a Radial arm saw!!! Bad sh*t happens very fast.
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