I went with the Triton 3.25hp TRA001, which has a lift built in. I splurged on the plate and got a Woodpecker brand plate, which is thicker than most others. The Triton has a built in above the table lift, is very high powered, and will work with any table, fence or other device you want. The first picture is of a Triton in an Infinity plate. I like getting a first class table router and lift for a reasonable price.
Building your own table is nice because you can make it a little larger in one dimension which is very nice. I'm still using a Rockler top and table I bought maybe 10 years ago. My shop is a little crowded so the longer table can wait.
I don't have anything against the tools recommended here, but budgeting for a router and what is one of the most expensive lifts, is a little tough these days. The Triton is about $280, but you don't need the lift, you just remove a spring. I think the Triton is too heavy to use freehand. But I would definitely go with an aluminum plate for it.
Much of the time I use a small trim router instead of a larger one. I do have two 1617 Bosch routers for freehand use, but really don't use them much anymore.
One thing Stick suggested some time ago was using a "snorkle" or pipe attached to the bottom of the router while it's in the table. Let it draw in cool, clean air through your router so it doesn't get gummed up by sawdust and sap. Some routers come with pretty good sawdust extraction attachments, but you will definitely want a split fence with a small dust extraction hood in the center so you can use a shop vac to extract excess sawdust. The second picture is of a Jessem fence with dust extraction on the back. If you let sawdust build up, it will raise your workpiece slightly so the cut won't match previous profiles. You'll want to clear off sawdust between passes.
Take some time to read Stick's pdfs on routing, they are really good.
Sawdust is a big deal to me. That sawdust is nasty if it gets into your lungs. At minimum you should consider getting another three items: 1: a fairly powerful shop vac with 2.5 inch hose. 2: a Dust Deputy that separates sawdust and chips out so it doesn't get to and clog your shop vac filter (filters are $$$$$$), and 3: a small bucket or barrel with lid to which you mount the dust deputy. You'll find a bucket fills fairly fast, so empty it fairly often or it loses efficiency. Below is a picture of the DD setup. Not very expensive, and sometimes you can find a used shop vac in a thrift store.
One other minor thing, when you buy the plate for the router, make shure it has a twist lock on the inserts. The old ones used 3 tiny screws, which were magic because they always disappear. The Twist Lock on my Woodpecker plate allows me to put in a variety of inserts that fit fairly close to the bit, up to about 3 inches. The inserts also support smaller workpieces so they don't fall into the opening. The inserts in the picture are the red circular things.
If you are interested in checking out the Triton, go to YouTube and look up videos by Marc Sommerfeld, who sells router stuff, but is an old cabinet maker. I learned many great methods watching him work. You'll also notice the quick action of the twist lock inserts.
