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Dan that can probably be answered with one question.

Will you use all the features?

If your answer is no then don't add those features.

I built a table saw sled many years ago. It had zero clearance similar to the one you are looking into building. I have an insert that is for 45 degree cuts. Never used! I have and adjustable angle gauge. Never used! I have a simple stop without a built in tape. Works foe me. Also, my sled is large like the one you are seeing in the video. When I built it I was younger. Each year it gets heavier. Have never built a light simple sled, but think at some time it will become necessary.

Frank

I am kinds with Frank on this, I used a sled for many years but now for some reason it heavier and more cumbersome. Because of that I don't use it anymore and now I use different methods to accomplish the same tasks. But if you are not at that point in life, then a sled is very useful. It can be as simple or complex as you want. As far as needing a miter sled it depends on what projects you do. If there are a lot of picture frames in your future then a miter sled will certainly make those easier and almost foolproof. If I were to make a sled I would include t-tracks for hold downs and stop blocks. But personally I would build a separate miter sled. Store bought tracks are nice because they don't swell and shrink with changes in the humidity, but you can certainly get by without them.

I use a box joint sled for the convenience and no limit on size of pieces. It’s just one setup but I only I use it for small box ideas. For larger objects I go to dovetails.

The thing I find most interesting is the claim of the perfect mitering sled sounds good in theory.

I've built a couple of sleds for miters, and none of them cut a precise miter. It improved when I started using a full kerf blade, but I finally got a tool just for picture frames. Perfect miters every time with a Lyon miter trimmer for picture frames. My favorite sled is a commercial one from Rockler. Fine tuned it with a draftsman's triangle set against the blade. Once configured it's accurate to a tiny fraction of one degree.

As to weight, all my jigs have put on weight too. But for a sled, no one said you couldn't cut openings into the flat part to lighten it up.

I opted for a single runner sled. Having it sit on one side allows for cutting longer pieces than a 2 runner sled unless you make the 2 runner sled so big that you need help to get it up on the saw. You also don't need the front crosspiece that is needed to hold the sled together if you go with one runner. I extended the runner out the front of the sled so that by the time the front lip of the sled is on the table it is already tracking well enough to cut accurately. That allows me to cut small panels instead of just lumber. My fence is only 3/4" tall and about 1.5" wide so for stops I've been using an F clamp and wooden block. I've thought about making a fence with a T track and tape measure added but I'm still not sure about doing that yet. Maybe I'll add those on the next one.

Chuck,

Any chance of seeing a picture ?, given the 1 only runner, is the stability and preciseness affected. Would a double runner be more precise ? I want to be able to cut some pretty large panels such as 24'' x 48'' or so, is this common practice, is this not what sleds are meant for ? for smaller stuff I have a sacrificial fence on my miter gauge that works well and I bought an aftermarket miter gauge that so far I have only looked at the contents of the box.

Cheers!
Dan

If you do a one runner, you might consider a fixed single runner on the RH side of the saw to catch the dropoff, and keep it from tearing off as it drops off the piece being cut, VOE.
Herb