G'day @Karks13 , welcome to the forum.
Is this a true one inch or is it construction lumber around 3/4" (nominal)? I didn't click the links but I would get the strongest, fastest machine of those and go from there. I have a friend who has a OneFinity and it's a fairly rigid machine, much better than I thought it would be.1" pine designs with a max width of 18”.
David,Is this a true one inch or is it construction lumber around 3/4" (nominal)? I didn't click the links but I would get the strongest, fastest machine of those and go from there. I have a friend who has a OneFinity and it's a fairly rigid machine, much better than I thought it would be.
Honestly I would need to use a 1/8" bit for most of my designs, Do you see that being an issue? Do you not cut the entire 1.25 because there is no bit for that or because the CNC machine cannot handle that depth? Also see the pictures i added. I also cut objects like this, so I am guessing some will work on a CNC and some I may have to stick with my manual process, a scrollsaw. Open to suggestions. Thanks!Any of those machines and several others will do what you want. One thing to keep in mind is the level of detail you want in your pieces and the depth you want to cut. For example, you may want a level of detail that requires a 1/8" bit to attain, but 1/8" bits with a 1" flute length are not the norm. Long 1/8" flex a lot, too. You can find all kinds of 1/4" bits of that length, but you lose the level of detail that you may want.
I cut picture frames that are 1.25" thick using a 1/8" bit, but I cut down 3/4" and leave the remaining 1/2" to be remove by bandsaw and flush trim router bit on a router table. Those processes may not be available to you.
Thanks for your input, I will look at the durability of the systems.I don't have or seen any of those machines at work, so can't give any recommendations for the particular machines but I will say try to get the most rigid machine you can afford if you want repeatable accuracy. My hobby machine is mostly plastic and my personal experience is it can be off as much as 1/16" from cut to cut on harder lumber. Since accuracy is not a particular concern for me I don't care. 99% of the time I do individual 2.5d carves. I have a larger machine as well but I haven't learned how to use it yet so no input there.
Hopefully, someone with more experience will pipe in.
I don't cut the entire 1.25 because I don't have any 1/8" bits with a flute length that long. They are available, but flex more than I can accept. Also, by not cutting all the way through, it removes the problem of figuring out a good way to hold them down. Since I have access to both a band saw and a router table, "onion skinning" is something that I do quite a lot of. Leaving .5" of material is just a thicker onion skin. This process will likely not work for your work, though. The level of detail is more than a flush trim bit will handle.Honestly I would need to use a 1/8" bit for most of my designs, Do you see that being an issue? Do you not cut the entire 1.25 because there is no bit for that or because the CNC machine cannot handle that depth? Also see the pictures i added. I also cut objects like this, so I am guessing some will work on a CNC and some I may have to stick with my manual process, a scrollsaw. Open to suggestions.