[jerrymayfield]

First wipe the wood with mineral spirits to remove the dust, use paper towels and use as many as necessary to remove all the dust,dirt,etc.This will also highlight any glue (if any used) not completely removed. Pine like cherry,maple,poplar et.al. doesn't take stain well,it tends to get blotchy. If you want info on ways to finish pine,facts not advertising hype,write again after the wood is cleaned.

regards
jerry

 

[jerrymayfield]

Wood conditioner is either made with mostly MS and a little finish ( the theory being a sponge nearly completly filled won't absorb much more) or a very thinned finisn to partially fill the wood grain to limit the amount of stain the wood will accept.The only thing this actually helps is the bottom line of the Co.'s making them. This is one example of advertising that works being repeated as gospel. Thank God for Minwax and Madison Ave. I'll add more next time.

jerry

 

[jerrymayfield]

One way to finish pine is to apply Orange shellac,fresh mixed, followed by a good varnish(waterlox works well it uses phenolic as a resin so it adds an amber cast). This yields what is refered to as "pumpkin pine". Most of the antique and just old pine furniture that many people like so much was made from old growth (read slow growth) lumber that is much different than what is generally sold today. Another ,more general way is to first apply a very thin (approximately 1/2 lb cut) blond shellac ,when dry sand much of it off with 220 grit and then dye with a metallic dye (if appling by hand
use water soluable dye for the background ,or final color, from here it can be glazed, toned,and top coated. My sarcasm was meant to be directed towards the finish makers and spin doctors who decide what we want and need and why. The truth hardly enters into the hype.

regards
jerry