[PhilBa]

Those motors are WAAAAY overkill for a workbee. A lot of people are running the workbee with GRBL on an arduino with something like DQ542s or even little TB6600s.

 

[PhilBa]

I agree they are monsters compared to what's coming with the machine. https://www.ebay.com/itm/123758811267 that's what comes with the machine plus 175 oz steppers, I do have 3 425 oz stepper so I might use those for the x and y axis then use the 175 oz for the z, then use the monster set up for my next build. Which will be a 4x8 machine with R&P instead of screws.

I'll look into the GRBL.
I see the drivers are TB6600s I also have an extra 24 volt power supply if I need it to run the bigger motors.
I also have a 3 axis TB6600 so I'm wondering if I could use that for an extra axis like a rotary? That one doesn't need a break out board.

The 175 oz steppers are a little on the light side though they might work ok running on 24V. I'd probably swap in the 425 oz ones. TB6600s will be fine for either motor. You will want a breakout board no matter what. Limit switches, estop, pause, cycle start, step/dir will all need connections. You could just get a wire terminal shield for an arduino mega - very inexpensive. I'd use 24V no matter which steppers you use.

 

[PhilBa]

Virtually no Nema23 sized steppers will run to their full potential on 24V. The optimum drive voltage is given by

V = 32 x sqrt(inductance)

Good low inductance steppers are around 2-2.5 mH and work with 48V, most sold in kits have much higher inductance, requiring 72-80V drive voltage. They will work with lower, but low drive voltage affects the speed they can run at, the drive current affects how much torque they have. Generally, with wood, you need decent speed to get the correct chip load at the rpms that routers or spindles turn. Generally want to get at or above 150ipm. Depending on the pitch of the ballscrews, may need higher rpm out of the steppers, hence the reason for higher drive voltage.

True but it was a choice of 12 vs 24 that he already has. TB6600s are spec'd up to 40ish and 36V is the only other reasonable option. I was commenting on what he has, not suggesting he go buy more. We are talking about a workbee here which is going to flex a lot if you push it too hard - extruded AL CBeams and V wheels. Works great if you stay inside the envelope.

 

[PhilBa]

Man I just made a reply but the forum timed out on me and lost all I wrote, bugger.

Any way I have 2 24 volt ps and 2 60 volt that came with my 34 nema kit. Probably just use the 24 volts

I can fix the flex down the road with angle iron and change the bearings to metal and have them ride along the angle the thing I'm more worried about is the whip from the 8 mil lead screw. Why would anyone use a 3d printer lead screw for a larger machine is beyond me. I get that they are cheap but even a 3/8 multi start would be better and same price or not that much more.

There are lots of schemes for beefing up a workbee - I'm sure you've seen them. The openbuilds forum has a fair amount of chatter on that. I considered going that route but decided to start with a more rigid structure for my next machine. Agree on the lead screw - these consumer machines are built to a price point and that's one of the ways they get there.