Wow is that nice
Thanks. This one is 1/4” thick. When I get out towards the rim I was getting vibration so I didn’t try to go any thinner. I also learned to make the segments larger in the future. What I mean by that is I will take a board and rip it into 1.25” pieces and cut the segments out of those. This bowl was three rows taller but was out of line enough that the top three rows got too thin so I parted them off and went with this. I will probably rip my boards down to 1.75” in the future to eliminate that problem. A little more waste would have been worth saving the three extra rows to me.Great work, Rusty.
In your experience, what is the minimum wall thickness that can be achieved, before running into problems of structural integrity with all the glued segments?
I suppose it varies by species of wood?
I have not tried segmented turning, but would worry that at some point, with all the glue joints and subtle changes in angle of the grain, a catch would wreck the bowl. I have had that happen with solid wood, at the transition from long- to cross-grain, when I got to a wall thickness beyond my competence.
did he say what kind of finish he used on the antifreeze stabilized bowls ?I remember seeing a demo many years ago, by a very experienced turner. He purposely left a thick rim right to the very end, to stabilise the bowl and reduce vibrations. Only trimmed it down when he was satisfied with the rest. Not sure whether it would work for segmented turning though, and he is regretably no longer with us to ask. He used to turn bowls from green wood, then soak them in antifreeze (polyethylene glycol) to "season" them and prevent splitting (some of the time). He microwaved some instead of the antifreeze treatment. Worked, but some of them distorted in the process.