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Discussion Starter #1
Guess I’ll go back to the good old fashion using straight edge routing.
No matter how I set up the router in-feed and out-feed; I get a ½ inch snipe at the end.
I don’t get it. I have enough pressure to keep the out feed stock pressed against the out feed sub-fence so theoretically this shouldn’t happen. Also there’s no downward/trail pressure over the bit. I suspect that the out-feed might be a bit low but I’ve set and reset.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
 

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The only way you can get a snipe at the end of a pass is when the fence is Not lined up true or the hole for the bit is to wide in the fence.
You did say what type of bit you are using but it looks like a standard bit without a bearing at the top of the bit.
The bearing is only used in this is case to line the fence up sq. with the bit/bearing.
Flush trim bits would best for this type of job, they will give you a nice clean cut.
Are you using your new table ?, I saw in your new fence you have shims behide the white stock did you remove them b/4 you ran the cut.
They are used when you want to use the router table for a planer or you need to use a bit that has no bearing on it like a glue joint bit, that will take off the edge of the stock.
It maybe the spacer(s) in the fence needs to be in place if you are getting a snipe at the end of the pass.
The easy way to set the fence true, clamp a block of wood to the out feed side of the fence and set then infeed side of the fence true to the out feed side of the fence, if it's not you will need to shim it so it's true. (add or remove shims from the out feed side)

Good Luck with your setup
Bj :)
 

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Just a note,,, this is what I did to remove that type of error.
I use a T & G insert that's quick and easy to put in the fence and when I want to use the router table for a planer or use bits that have no bearing on them, it will line up the fence true and with a 1/32" off set on the out feed side,see snapshots below... ▼ I can use any bit without bearings on them.
(Glue-Joint,Miter Lock Bits,etc.)
Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks BJ.
First I tried a CMT Flush trim bit with angle cut. then I tried a Straight bit.
Yes, I'm using the new table with the shims on out-feed set for 1/16 removal.
I did clamp a straight edge to the out-feed and then pulled that in into the bit for flush set-up.
At this point I will go back to straight edge free hand routing since I've been doing that for many years and always get good results. Right now I don’t have the time to experiment. I need to join 32 boards and have no room for mistake.
 

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Straight bits are real nasty to set up with out the bearing to help. :)

If you are going to work with real wood you will need to get a jointer, nothing can take it's place when you are doing long stock (14" long or longer) the router can do it BUT nothing will take the jointer place when you are doing many boards or just making a top for a table.
If you watch Norm on his show (NYWS) he will use it all the time, true is true and sq.is sq. and jointer can do it quick and easy, they don't show Bob and Rick using one but they also don't show Bob and Rick using a table saw but you can bet they do.

The one I use all the time is the Grizzly 6" ,it works great for just about anything I pass over it. :) the real key to the jointer is to get the chips out of the box once they have been remove from the stock so they don't go around and around under the cutting blades, (so it can't try and cut them again or nick/damage the blades).

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0452

Just one more thing that's neat about a jointer,if you want to put a 45 deg. or a 22 1/2 deg. on a board, they is no better way or quicker than the jointer and it's true and sharp unlike the table saw (no saw marks,no nicks and burn marks) but when it comes to end grain the router table is the way to go. (clean and sharp)

Bj :)
 

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You're Welcome

The only draw back about the Grizzly jointer, it comes in two boxes and it takes 2 to 3 hours to put it together as one machine, :) that's after you read the setup maunal and find all the parts and there is a ton of them.
I didn't know it was about the same as Delta jointer but with wheels to move it around the shop, that makes it nice ,because it's not light I don't recall but I think it's about 250lbs. more than I want to pickup and move around so I can clean the shop up.
And I don't need to put out 50.oo bucks more for a set of caster or a under carrage to move it around.

Thanks for the link ,it helps to check things out quick and easy on the NET.

Bj :)
 

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Yep, I did see that in your snapshot, you may want to rethink that one. :)
The grain looks like it's going the wrong way :) or to say it looks like it may snap off if you put to much of a load on it and a 5/8" hole taking away some of the stock on top of that.
Maybe add a out riger to help hold the load,maybe from the bottom rail to make a box support for the wheel and pick up the side of the wheel bracket . :)

Just my 2 cents :) , it would not be funny if you are working on the router table and it snap off, that would get your heart going . :) :) it would only drop 2" or so but a 3 leg router table will not stand up.


Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good eye for detail………impressive

Originally, it didn’t have the casters and I got tired of picking it up. Connan has left the building. So I had to come up with something quick.
I must admit it looks weird, unstable and unprofessional. However I’ve tested several times by sitting on the router Table (long breaks) :) and it has held up good. And since I weigh just slightly more than my Dewalt 625, I think it will have to do for now. I am planning to add a better-looking support.

it would not be funny if you are working on the router table and it snap off, that would get your heart going .
stepping on a rusty nail, falling down and straining my wrist and then breaking off my favorite spiral bit all in one week, does make me have fleeting second thoughts now and then about the casters. :)
 

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This is what I would do to fix it,that's to say so you don't need to filp it on it's side and remake the support.
Take some hardwood (Oak) and cut some 45deg. blocks,and move part of the load to the down part of the leg and the base part of caster. (just glue no screws ) on ea.side of the nut hole so you can replace the caster if it's needed.

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the tip. It looks like I’ll be off of my feet for the next few days. I twisted my back and can’t even stand up.
Oy way, so many accidents so little time.
 

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You're Welcome for the tip :)

This is not been your week :( ,take care of the back, I hurt mind about 20 years ago and once you twist it will stay with you for a long time, I thought I was a back hoe and was using my back to pull big rocks out of the ground ,that did it.
I walked around for about 30 days like a S man and walked a bit sideways.
Still smarts now and than, so take care and take it easy.

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Tell me about it. I hurt mine at 22 and had trouble for the next 15 years or so now this.
I put tone of stinking Tiger Balm on my back for a little relief and to see if I could swing the router today (not much help,all I can do is stay in one position off of my feet).
So much for joining boards.
 

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What you need is a horizontal router so you can do it laying down...

Sorry, couldn't resist. I also hurt my back a few months ago and I'm still having trouble getting a good night's sleep.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Snipe issue resolved at last.
Just finished all the boards and not a single snipe or rip.
Although an excruciatingly painful experience with my back out of wack :eek:
And lack of horizontal router table for doing this laying down.
Danke aller zu der Information. :D
 
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