Hi, I had the same situation. Here's how I resolved it.
Have a Rockler table with a somewhat small plate with 3 screws holding the insert. Got the Woodpecker plate that was set up for the big Triton specifically because of the twist lock insert--got the insert set too. The plate was larger and thicker than the Rockler plate, and it didn't have a hole drilled for the crank. These turned out to be minor problems fixed in about 2 hours (I'm a slow worker)..
First, I attached the router to the plate, and used a half inch drill bit to drill the hole for the crank. I simply turned it over and lined the drill up in the small depression in the circumference, and drilled it out. Used a rat tail file to smooth the edges a bit. Voila' that was done.
Next I lined the sides up with the sides of the hole in the table. It was the same width as the Rockler opening, but an inch longer on the short dimension. I snugged four straight boards around the periphery as shown in the drawing. If I had it to do over again, I'd have slipped a playing card or two between the plate and boards to give myself a bit of wiggle room when putting the plate in the opening.
You can also buy the Woodpecker template. Clamp the boards or template in place then use either as a template with a pattern routing bit (Bearing is toward the base or router end). Set the depth so it routs out slightly deeper than thickness of the plate. The Woodpecker plate is thicker than the old plate.
Make sure you cinch down the retaining screw on the router bit. Mine came off mid project. Everything worked, but it isn't pretty.
I didn't trim the height of the opening at all, so I didn't have to remove the leveling screws, just backed them off out of reach of the pattern bit. I think this increases the overall support for the plate.
The setup works perfectly, although I didn't do the card trick so it is a very tight fit.
While many here choose to use the complex accessory fences, I haven't found the need for one. Pursuit of precision in woodworking is a waste of effort beyond a certain point. If you watch a couple of Marc Sommerfeld's videos on YouTube, you'll see an old(mature) woodworker and cabinetmaker doing very precise work with a basic type of fence, and square chunks of MDF. He plugs his products, but don't worry about that, watch how he works. Elegant simplicity.
I like spending on tools, its fun shopping, taking them home and trying them out. But I've found myself wishing I'd not bought a number of fancy tools and gadgets because I rarely (if ever) use them. There are many here who love their Incra products, they make really good stuff. I have their box joint jig setup for the table saw and really like it. It makes sense to fix the wood to a jig and move the wood over the router rather than horsing the router over fixed wood.
I have a Rockler fence with dust extraction port on the back and an adjustable split fence. It does everything I want it to.
I attached a picture of the plate itself so people know what we're talking about. Clamp the heck out of that template!!!
Have a Rockler table with a somewhat small plate with 3 screws holding the insert. Got the Woodpecker plate that was set up for the big Triton specifically because of the twist lock insert--got the insert set too. The plate was larger and thicker than the Rockler plate, and it didn't have a hole drilled for the crank. These turned out to be minor problems fixed in about 2 hours (I'm a slow worker)..
First, I attached the router to the plate, and used a half inch drill bit to drill the hole for the crank. I simply turned it over and lined the drill up in the small depression in the circumference, and drilled it out. Used a rat tail file to smooth the edges a bit. Voila' that was done.
Next I lined the sides up with the sides of the hole in the table. It was the same width as the Rockler opening, but an inch longer on the short dimension. I snugged four straight boards around the periphery as shown in the drawing. If I had it to do over again, I'd have slipped a playing card or two between the plate and boards to give myself a bit of wiggle room when putting the plate in the opening.
You can also buy the Woodpecker template. Clamp the boards or template in place then use either as a template with a pattern routing bit (Bearing is toward the base or router end). Set the depth so it routs out slightly deeper than thickness of the plate. The Woodpecker plate is thicker than the old plate.
Make sure you cinch down the retaining screw on the router bit. Mine came off mid project. Everything worked, but it isn't pretty.
I didn't trim the height of the opening at all, so I didn't have to remove the leveling screws, just backed them off out of reach of the pattern bit. I think this increases the overall support for the plate.
The setup works perfectly, although I didn't do the card trick so it is a very tight fit.
While many here choose to use the complex accessory fences, I haven't found the need for one. Pursuit of precision in woodworking is a waste of effort beyond a certain point. If you watch a couple of Marc Sommerfeld's videos on YouTube, you'll see an old(mature) woodworker and cabinetmaker doing very precise work with a basic type of fence, and square chunks of MDF. He plugs his products, but don't worry about that, watch how he works. Elegant simplicity.
I like spending on tools, its fun shopping, taking them home and trying them out. But I've found myself wishing I'd not bought a number of fancy tools and gadgets because I rarely (if ever) use them. There are many here who love their Incra products, they make really good stuff. I have their box joint jig setup for the table saw and really like it. It makes sense to fix the wood to a jig and move the wood over the router rather than horsing the router over fixed wood.
I have a Rockler fence with dust extraction port on the back and an adjustable split fence. It does everything I want it to.
I attached a picture of the plate itself so people know what we're talking about. Clamp the heck out of that template!!!
