[Tabb]

I've just mounted my Makita plunge router to a Craftsman table using an adapter plate. The tip of the bit will only protrude maybe 1/2 inch max over the table top. Is this normal?

The plunge mechanism is compressed to it's fullest so I can not get anymore adjustment. If I let the router spring to its normal height, the tip of the collet(1/4") is way under the table. Before I run out to buy a new router, is there anyway that I can extend the collet so that I can get some more height adjustment?

Yes I am a newbie and have no actual routing experience. Please help!?!?!?

 

[thebig0]

Hi Tabb, did you take the plastic plate off the router base? You can lift the bit a little, it does not have to be fully seated in the collett. I'm not familiar with "craftsman" tables but maybe you could rout a little from underneath.

 

[Woodnut65]

Hi Tabb: How thick is the adapter plate. Does it call for the removal of the original
router sub base. which Makita router are you using. I use a Makita 3612BR in my
Oak-Park table and it works great. The Oak Park plate replaces the Makita sub base
and gives me plenty of room for hieght adjustment. I would believe that your problem is the adapter plate is to thick or that the sub base should be removed prior to mpounting the router. Hope this helps. Woodnut65

 

[Tabb]

Hi Tabb, did you take the plastic plate off the router base? I'm not familiar with "craftsman" tables but maybe you could rout a little from underneath.

The plastic base has been removed. By rout a little from underneath, do you mean remove material from the table? That may be a problem as the table is made of metal. Where the router mounts to the table there are raised up edges to give the table strength. This accounts for 1/2". When added to the metal adapter plate (1/8 to 1/4") I've got a huge gap to make up.

Hi Tabb: How thick is the adapter plate. Does it call for the removal of the original
router sub base. which Makita router are you using. I use a Makita 3612BR in my
Oak-Park table and it works great. The Oak Park plate replaces the Makita sub base
and gives me plenty of room for hieght adjustment. I would believe that your problem is the adapter plate is to thick or that the sub base should be removed prior to mpounting the router. Hope this helps. Woodnut65

I'm not sure which model I'm using....not at home right now but I will check later. What do you mean by the sub base? The aluminumn base where the springs mount?

How far is the collet/bit supposed to stick out of the table normally? Thanks for the help guys. I'm hoping not to have to buy another router.....

 

[JohnH]

Tabb, your problem might be that you are using a 1/4" bit.I just measured a 1/4" shank 1/4 roundover and a 1/2" shank 1/4 roundover and there was a 1/2" difference in length.If your router is only 1/4" you might need to change to a 1/2" collet router.That would also mean new router bits.If you go this way you might look at this site http://www.bladesnbits.com/ for good quality and good prices.Hope this helps..



John

 

[reible]

I've just mounted my Makita plunge router to a Craftsman table using an adapter plate. The tip of the bit will only protrude maybe 1/2 inch max over the table top. Is this normal?

The plunge mechanism is compressed to it's fullest so I can not get anymore adjustment. If I let the router spring to its normal height, the tip of the collet(1/4") is way under the table. Before I run out to buy a new router, is there anyway that I can extend the collet so that I can get some more height adjustment?

Yes I am a newbie and have no actual routing experience. Please help!?!?!?

I was thinking is it possible that you have the polestop set and when you plunge you hit that and the router is not fully plunged? Also bit length varies, I have some (yellow) bits which are very short........

I have seen extensions for 1/2" routers but none for 1/4".

Ed

 

[Tabb]

I just took another look at my router. The tip of the collet reaches as far as the base of the baseplate. With the router fully plunged, the collet is just flush with the base of the router.

I think I may be just SOL and have to get another router........

BTW the router is a Makita 3620 and apparently has only a 35mm plunge depth.....not enough to offset the 1/2" distance created by mounting it to the table.....

 

[DONALD]

Tabb is the plate of your router being held away from the table top by the reinforcing under the table?

 

[Tabb]

Tabb is the plate of your router being held away from the table top by the reinforcing under the table?

That's exactly what's happening. The reinforcment is 1/3" and the plate is 1/4".

 

[Exboss]

The best thing you could do is order a set of plans for the "Router Workshop" table and build one. Purchase the Oak Park 11' base plate that will fit your router, some 1/2' Baltic birch 9 ply plywood and go for it. For the top, go to your nearby cabinet shop and see if they won't donate a sink cutout from a countertop. You will have setup you can work with.

 

[DONALD]

That's exactly what's happening. The reinforcment is 1/3" and the plate is 1/4".

I'm looking at an old Craftsman table and the only way I see is to grind that rib out enough to allow your base to fit flat against the bottom of the table. If the fence on your C table is as bad as the one I have it ain't worth it. Either build your own or buy.

 

[reible]

Just checking

I happen to have two old Craftsman router tables. One is back from the mid-70's and the "new" one is from the later 90's. Since I don't know what model we are talking about I decide to take a look at my mid 90's one to see what I could learn.

I removed the router and then measured the thickness of the table top from where the router mounts to the top of the table. On mine it is right on 7/16". I then plunged the router and found that it comes flush with the base of the router.

I now went to the 1/4" bits I have and measured the shortest one I have. This turned out to be a dovetail bit that measured 1 1/2" long. Most of the bits came in the 2 1/2" range except of a few that were more like 2", I also found a few that reached 2 3/4" including the bearing.

I went to my drawing program and made a sketch of what my router would look like when mounted with the shortest bit (1 1/2") If you want take a look at the attachment.

With 3/4" of bit in the chuck I have 3/4" bit extending up. If the router table is 7/16" thick that leaves 5/16 above the table. but with bits in the 2 1/2" range you have a good amount of bit exposed, even after putting more of the bit into the chuck.

The amount of plunge range has nothing to do with this side of the problem.

Now can someone review what I have done and see if I'm missing some importain point here?

Ed

 

[Mike]

The Craftsman router tables are designed to work with Craftsman routers. They are very limited in their abilities. The fence's are not acurate, there is no provision for dust collection, and its difficult at best to clamp anything to them. The exception to this is the latest version which uses a mounting plate for the router, and is in fact a carbon copy of the OEM's table but priced a bit less and flying a Craftsman color scheme. I think you will find the best use of the older Craftsman tables is as step stools. There are so many really nice designs for tables, why not build your own using the plans which best fit your space and budget requirements? Oak Park, Rockler, Woodcraft all sell components and plans or ready to use tables. Check out the plans from Shopnotes, Woodsmith... with so many choices you are bound to find the perfect set up for your needs.