the board is being rotated as you feed it which is easy to do considering the length...
If you look closely at the grain direction near the end of your work piece, the end that routed OK likely has it's end grain tilted away from your direction of feed, and it's pointing slightly toward the direction of feed on the end that is giving you trouble. The bit is catching on the ends of the grain and ripping it out.Charley, doing all those things but the miter is a simple one and has no clamps. A sled with clamps sounds like a good project for the "To Do" list. What I can't understand is the one end routed perfectly. The the other end is the problem. I thought of moving the fence and using the miter without it with just the miter. Will experiment and see what happens. Thanks.
CC, will look at the recommended videos. Thanks.
I agree, if the miter gauge is not square with the fence, it will do what you describe, i.e. If the fence is not parrellel with the miter slot then as the wood is pushed forward either pushed away from the fence or the leading edge will cut and the heel will be forced away from the cutter. By using a block that is at right angles to the fence and held against the fence like the drawing should solve your problem.John, I think that many people wouldn't use a miter gauge and a fence at the same time. As Charles and Harry said, I would use a square block against the fence, behind your work, as a pusher and try to shave a hair off at a time. I don't know your skill level, so I hope I'm not insulting you.