My opinions which are worth about as much as my 1/2 arse paintings. Just order the kit. Make your own stand if you wish. You want to cut or dabble? Saying that......

You need the touch plate for exact work. I still use playing cards but have the touch plate waiting to be hooked up.

I broke one proximity sensor. Cheapest I found was a similar one for about $5 cheaper than CNCRP. So I just ordered a couple from CNCRP.

Get the tram plate. Makes the spindle more rigid and adjustable. Personal choice for me was the air cooled spindle. Less muss and fuss. Just my opinion. But get a spindle of some kind.

That 4 x 5 will probably make most anything you will ever do -- and is expandable down the road. I'd buy their electronics (I'm lectronically limited), get it together, and start cutting as soon as possible. Their instructions and parts are pretty good and you will still learn what they are and what they do. You want to cut or play frustrated builder? The design engineer at my wife's place built his about the same time I was getting interested in CNC. His advice was buy whatever you can afford and screw the building from scratch --- unless your name is David Falkner.

Don't be penny wise and pound foolish.

Just my thoughts which don't mean a thing.

 

We need to let Rick know his account has been hacked and compromised - someone impersonating him ordered a CNC. Next thing we'll see is insulation! :grin:

I'll play along... way to go, Rick! Btw, the 100mm spindle mount is for a 3kW spindle. A 2.2kW spindle uses 80mm. At least that's the way it normally goes. When's the arrival date?

David

 

I don't think he's ordered it yet. He'll make some excuse not to I bet. lol

 

HOw, I go away for a day and Rick gets hacked. argggghhh..

 

I'd say get the spindle mount w/tramming adaptor and the touch plate.

For the proximity/homing switches you will probably want to add connectors to the box to connect the cables to or at least use some kind of quick disconnects instead of wiring directly into the control board. There are all kinds of micro switches you can use, you just need to figure out how and where they need to be mounted. You will want to use shielded cable for the switches to help eliminate static problems.

You do have time to search for components but you do need to decide what control software you will be using so you get the correct boards and drivers for the steppers you decide to use. Doing your own electronics you need to remember you will have to configure the components for use with your chosen control software.

Looks like you will beat me to buying a new machine but I do have the insulation for the lower floor in my shop so if I hurry I might beat you to insulating.

 

I'm with John on buy the plug and play electronics, if you can. I built my own electronics, but that is what I do for a living..

As far as proximity sensors, I got mine from Automation Direct (online shopping). Also got my vfd and enclosure there.

A touch plate is definitely worth the money. Someday I will get John to use his...

Good luck with your build!

 

I’m not to intimidated by the electronics, and I’m actually looking forward to it . I’ll have an over sized cabinet just to make things easier to work on .

I was hoping to use UCCNC , and Avid doesn’t support it, so I will be stuck with Mach 3 or 4 if I use their electronics.

 

As long as you buy well documented electronics, you will not have any issues. You are just connecting boxes with wires, not much more complicated than wiring a stereo system, not like you need to solder components on boards. Do buy decent shielded wire, it will definitely prevent issues that you don’t want to track down. The steppers and Spindle will definitely need to be shielded, not necessary for the proximity sensors, but won’t hurt. Shielded wire designed for high flex applications is more expensive and a bit harder to find. That is one of the reasons for the higher cost of their prewired setups - they actually supply decent cables. .
I do urge you to learn at least a little about steppers. You will not want to buy most of the cheap sets of steppers and drivers that are out there. You want to look for some low inductance ones, the recommended driver voltage is related to the inductance by the formula V = 32 x sqrt(inductance). The ones that CNC Router Parts (Avid) sells are pretty good, but you may find equivalent elsewhere for less. Have you decided on whether you will go Nema23 or 34? I have the 23s from CRP on my DIY and am quite happy, I believe David used 34s.

I used the ESS, but if you want to go UCCNC, you will need one of their motion controllers. I bought an AXBB-E and UCCNC license a few months ago (for a planned smaller machine), combined they were less than either the ESS or Mach4. Based on Gerry’s recommendations, I think it is a smart way to go.

My machine is also 4’ x 5’, it is a great size, and easy to balance a full 4 x 8 sheet if you need to. In 3 years since I built mine, I have yet to need to, but am building a new house and shop and will extend mine (already have the extrusions) so I can do my kitchen cabinets. Don’t forget to assemble it allowing the spindle to overhang one end so you can do joinery cuts on vertical boards - consider 6’ rails.

I have a feeling that once you receive it, you won’t be waiting for winter to assemble. Have you started learning any of the software yet?

 

Auto Z and Corner Finding Touch Plate | Avid CNC | CNC Router Parts
Would you guys suggest using their touch plate , or are there better options ?
The expense doesn’t seem to bad .

Here's a link to the touch plate I use. The Makers Guide - Triple Edge Finder - THE MAKERS GUIDE The Maker's Guide costs $77 vs Avid's $130, a significant difference. There are also ones similar to the Maker's Guide on Ebay from around $35 to $55.

The Maker's Guide does corner finding and sets Z. It works great, but does not have spring loading for Z axis touch off. I've only had a problem with that once, but it had nothing to do with the the touch plate. At that time, I was using an acme screw on Z. The coupling slipped and allowed the axis to dive too deep and chipped a cutting edge.

Gary

 

That’s very cool . The only think I like about the cncrouterparts one is it has a spring loaded plate .
It’s funny , as you say there shouldn’t be an issue , but I get anxiety every time I watch those bits go down to touch the solid metal surface . I’m assuming it’s made from aluminum?

I’m going to order one from cncrouterparts,and buy this one at a later date when I get a little more familiar with the machine .
Thanks for the info Gary

 

Well I wish I still had cncrouterparts phone number . I forgot they don’t provide one , and you have to email them in order for a call back .
Guess they were getting to many phone calls

 

"I do have the insulation for the lower floor in my shop so if I hurry I might beat you to insulating."
-Mike
Take your time, Mike; no rush.

 

Rick

Check PM

 

Got it , thanks John

 

Sounds good although the only missteps I've had is when I've ran it into the bumpers during a bit change. (Yep, I'm too cheap to splurge on the $260 limit switches) 😉

 

Sounds good although the only missteps I've had is when I've ran it into the bumpers during a bit change. (Yep, I'm to cheap to splurge on the $260 limit switches) 😉

On my present machine (self-designed and built), I'm using the high-priced Pepperl & Fuchs. However, on my first machine, I used the $18 for 5 Chinese cheapies.

Here's what I found:

Chinese are just as repeatable as P&F
P&F have a greater sensing distance
In a bypass (vs head on) sensing application, P&F pick up the target sooner
To maximize the Sensing distance with the Chinese, you have get the 18mm sensors (8mm sensing on steel) vs P&F, which are 12mm with 8mm sensing distance (about 1/4" dia. thinner). (I used the 18mm Chinese).

The P&F may last longer, but I do not have empirical evidence of that. In two years of use, the Chinese sensors never failed. I mechanically squared the gantry to the sensors. With the Chinese, homing on Y/slave axis was spot on every time.

Bottom line: IMO, cost is not an excuse for going bare.

Gary

 

I've been running mine for a couple of years and only crashed maybe twice so I'll probably keep running it without sensors but it would be nice to finally get to click that ref all home button! 🙂

 

I got one of each. There is a marked difference.

 

Is the one from Avid cnc louder than your other spindle ? I believe you didn’t have it running for long if I remember correctly, but maybe you noticed the noise difference

 

Just a touch. But it's bigger and more powerful. Bits on wood make noise no matter what. The vacuums are the loudest part of the whole operation.

 

Pretty sure the Avid cnc spindle is a 2.2kw (3hp) spindle. Same as the one on your Probotix. Could very well be a higher quality though.

 

If you place the dust collector as far away as possible it'll be much quieter.

 

It won’t be far away . Most likely 5’ away , and no other options as it will be located by the the wall in the middle of the shop . This way I can keep it close to the table saw .
No options to put it outside also .

What has me concerned is keeping the DC running for 14 hours straight if your doing a 3D carving .
Sounds like a lot of wear and tear and power consumption. The other option is to stand their the whole time and periodically use a shop vac to clean it up

 

My Ridgid vacs run up to 20 hours a day at peak times. Shortest lifespan I've had is 15 months on one.

 

switch to a DC...

 

Well we’re at the point of no return ,as it’s ordered

It won’t be assembled for quite some time , but I’m concerned about our dollar dropping further yet , so I got it over with .
Should make for a fun winter project

 

Well we’re at the point of no return ,as it’s ordered <a href="http://www.routerforums.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" ></a>

It won’t be assembled for quite some time , but I’m concerned about our dollar dropping further yet , so I got it over with .
Should make for a fun winter project

WOOOHOOOOOO!!!! Congratulations!!!
I can't believe this day has finally come!!

 

Yay rick!!!!!!

 

Hah... it's a given. Rick benefits from free insulation
once the chips start flying and collectin.

Congratulations!

 

Thanks guys . This has been on my bucket list for a long time, and I’m happy that I’ve finally ordered one .
I would have liked to have a 4’x8’ , but I know it would have make my garage a nuisance to move around in .
So I think a 4x5 is the next best thing . Now I have a reason to get my butt in gear and get the garage ready for winter

 

Ummmm got to get the shop ready. Don’t forget the WIP’s as you go along Rick especially the ‘I’ part.>>>>

Had to say it mate. Your going to fully enjoy yourself when the shop is done and the packages opened.

 

Don't let cold stop you from assembling, the machine can work in the cold (use antifreeze if you get a water cooled spindle). Assembly will go quicker than you believe. In the meantime, get cracking on the software you plan on using (if Vectric, any files you create in the demo version will be usable as long as you are on the same computer (and you can install on more than one).

Ok, who had 2019 in the pool? :wink:

 

Wasn't me - I was in the "ain't never going to happen" group. lol

 

I had it with the insulation installation (try saying that 10 times really fast! LOL!). Photos need to begin as soon as the packages arrive, Rick, and remember that video is widescreen. :wink:

David

 

I have heard, must be on another forum, that they do not do well in an uninsulated shop.....Just saying....VBG....

 

I’ve got a lot of work on my plate , and here I go getting side side tracked . Friends of mine have a huge deck with a large number of posts that need routing in order to embed the glass .
Sheesh