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On May 3, 2012 I submitted a new thread entitled "Shaving Horse Advice Needed...". I got several helpful responses (Thank You) and kept the idea "on a back burner" until now. I have done quite a bit of research on this subject and felt that I was ready to proceed with construction of my design. I had plenty of materials on-hand and hoped to be able to use drops and leftovers for most of the build.
I found quite a bit of info and recommendations on how to build a shaving horse using Google and "Images". Never did I find information on how to determine an ideal length versus my height and reach with arms and legs. Then, I also noticed a lack of height information. As I pondered these things, it became apparent that I should probably make a "BETA" version - with plans to make it intentionally too long and too tall. This line of thought led me to realize that this scenario would bring with it another logistical problem which was how to determine swing dimensions and preferential angles for the lever and workpiece holding device (this is all one assembly).
Also, I needed to make something that could be stored indoors - yet did not pose a storage problem or a trip-hazard. I don't have any projects that I need this for, but I just wanted to have and use one for my own satisfaction. A couple of days ago, it dawned on me that I really didn't need something that I will sit on, and I have a fair amount of workbench space available. My workbenches are built-ins: 1 is 16'-0" long and then there are 2- that are 6'-0" long. All are at the same height - which also coincides with the working surfaces of several of my power tools. The workbenches are all topped with 3/4" exterior grade plywood - nothing pretty - simply a surface to work on. When too many holes appear, these tops are simply taken-up by removing the countersunk screws and new tops go in the old places (not rocket science)!
My 16'-0" long workbench is 32" in uniform width (front-to-back), while the other workbenches are 24" in uniform width. There are always ongoing projects - and we are quite good at cleaning-up scattered tools, etc. after projects are complete.
I decided to make a "Shaving Pony" - which is simply my name for a benchtop design that does what I need - without hogging a lot of shop space. In the attached photos, you can see that I've provided a U-bolt as a handle - so this gizmo can be easily wall-hung for out-of-the-way storage.
I tried to make this with a minimum of parts and at a weight that could be easily moved. There are 2- 2x10's that are (base plate) 24" and (sloping plate) 28" long. Both of these parts were ripped to 8.25" width. Attached to the underside of the base plate are 2- "feet" - each is 2" x 2" x 12.25" - 1 at each end - under the base plate. Connecting the base and sloping plates are 3- "ramps". Each ramp slopes at a 6* angle and these are equally spaced to provide support. Screws and glue were utilized with screws going through oversized holes in the oak to prevent splitting.
Additional to the parts described above which comprise the main wedge, there are 2- more wooden parts. These parts are designed to work in parallel unison to catch springs which serve to hold-down the workpiece. Tension on the springs is increased as the parallel parts become increasingly further apart. I used U-bolts in the bottom piece - which holds the lower ends of the springs - this part is 1.125" x 2.625" x 12.25" with the U-bolts 10" apart. The top piece utilizes Eye-bolts and measures 1.5" x 2" x 12.25" and again, the bolts are 10" apart.
In one of the photos you can see the underside of the base plate. 9- small screws are carefully aligned in 3- rows - the serve as "speed bumps" to retain the lower spring catcher in one of 4- locations. This is why the lower spring catcher is narrower (depth in application) than the "feet". It can literally be "hopped" to other positions quite easily. These springs are quite strong - and according to my scales, it takes about 65 pounds to "stretch the springs" just even a small amount.
In 3- of the photos you will see a "pretend workpiece" being pinched into a workable position. These are sandwiched with nothing, one non-slip pad and two non-slip pads.
I used longer (than one might expect) Eye-bolts in the top spring catcher - I am expecting to add another bridge board to insert a fulcrum to reduce tension for insertion of thicker workpieces.
With the dimensions I used, this device can be placed in quite a few different locations within my shop - including atop of my table saw. A couple of C-clamps make this gizmo be very tenacious wherever it is located. I hope this proves helpful and please keep-in-mind that nothing here has to be the dimensions that I used - it is simply what will work for me!
I found quite a bit of info and recommendations on how to build a shaving horse using Google and "Images". Never did I find information on how to determine an ideal length versus my height and reach with arms and legs. Then, I also noticed a lack of height information. As I pondered these things, it became apparent that I should probably make a "BETA" version - with plans to make it intentionally too long and too tall. This line of thought led me to realize that this scenario would bring with it another logistical problem which was how to determine swing dimensions and preferential angles for the lever and workpiece holding device (this is all one assembly).
Also, I needed to make something that could be stored indoors - yet did not pose a storage problem or a trip-hazard. I don't have any projects that I need this for, but I just wanted to have and use one for my own satisfaction. A couple of days ago, it dawned on me that I really didn't need something that I will sit on, and I have a fair amount of workbench space available. My workbenches are built-ins: 1 is 16'-0" long and then there are 2- that are 6'-0" long. All are at the same height - which also coincides with the working surfaces of several of my power tools. The workbenches are all topped with 3/4" exterior grade plywood - nothing pretty - simply a surface to work on. When too many holes appear, these tops are simply taken-up by removing the countersunk screws and new tops go in the old places (not rocket science)!
My 16'-0" long workbench is 32" in uniform width (front-to-back), while the other workbenches are 24" in uniform width. There are always ongoing projects - and we are quite good at cleaning-up scattered tools, etc. after projects are complete.
I decided to make a "Shaving Pony" - which is simply my name for a benchtop design that does what I need - without hogging a lot of shop space. In the attached photos, you can see that I've provided a U-bolt as a handle - so this gizmo can be easily wall-hung for out-of-the-way storage.
I tried to make this with a minimum of parts and at a weight that could be easily moved. There are 2- 2x10's that are (base plate) 24" and (sloping plate) 28" long. Both of these parts were ripped to 8.25" width. Attached to the underside of the base plate are 2- "feet" - each is 2" x 2" x 12.25" - 1 at each end - under the base plate. Connecting the base and sloping plates are 3- "ramps". Each ramp slopes at a 6* angle and these are equally spaced to provide support. Screws and glue were utilized with screws going through oversized holes in the oak to prevent splitting.
Additional to the parts described above which comprise the main wedge, there are 2- more wooden parts. These parts are designed to work in parallel unison to catch springs which serve to hold-down the workpiece. Tension on the springs is increased as the parallel parts become increasingly further apart. I used U-bolts in the bottom piece - which holds the lower ends of the springs - this part is 1.125" x 2.625" x 12.25" with the U-bolts 10" apart. The top piece utilizes Eye-bolts and measures 1.5" x 2" x 12.25" and again, the bolts are 10" apart.
In one of the photos you can see the underside of the base plate. 9- small screws are carefully aligned in 3- rows - the serve as "speed bumps" to retain the lower spring catcher in one of 4- locations. This is why the lower spring catcher is narrower (depth in application) than the "feet". It can literally be "hopped" to other positions quite easily. These springs are quite strong - and according to my scales, it takes about 65 pounds to "stretch the springs" just even a small amount.
In 3- of the photos you will see a "pretend workpiece" being pinched into a workable position. These are sandwiched with nothing, one non-slip pad and two non-slip pads.
I used longer (than one might expect) Eye-bolts in the top spring catcher - I am expecting to add another bridge board to insert a fulcrum to reduce tension for insertion of thicker workpieces.
With the dimensions I used, this device can be placed in quite a few different locations within my shop - including atop of my table saw. A couple of C-clamps make this gizmo be very tenacious wherever it is located. I hope this proves helpful and please keep-in-mind that nothing here has to be the dimensions that I used - it is simply what will work for me!
