Hi everyone. I have a Sears router model number 31517380 that has a broken cable that runs from the trigger to the switch in the motor housing. According to the diagram it's #65 part number 2-606580-01. It's a great running router and I hate to discard it plus it belonged to my dad and has sentimental value also. Any help would be much appreciated. Miles
part needed
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Hi Miles and welcome to the forum. There may be a couple of options. One is to bypass the switch and use a remote switch instead. Another possibility may be stainless steel braided fishing line if you need to make a cable a certain length. It has a breaking strength of 400 lbs and you use crimpable ferrules to make loops at the ends.
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+1 on making a new wire...
Possibilities include thin stainless binding wire or Monel which will allow you to bend the ends around the trigger and still be flexible enough. It probably needs to be stiff enough so that it does not allow too much slack when you pull the trigger.
If the broken cable is twisted wire, try something like picture hanging wire, again stainless.
You could solder the ends accordingly to keep it neat.
Good luck...
Possibilities include thin stainless binding wire or Monel which will allow you to bend the ends around the trigger and still be flexible enough. It probably needs to be stiff enough so that it does not allow too much slack when you pull the trigger.
If the broken cable is twisted wire, try something like picture hanging wire, again stainless.
You could solder the ends accordingly to keep it neat.
Good luck...
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i don't belive you can solder to stainless wire , i belive picture hanging wire can be eather just wire or stainless
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Thanks, Del...the steel must be very clean and slight surface abrasion helps adhering. Convential heating devices can be used with acid-based flux and 50/50 tin/silver solder wire. Tinning the ends will help a lot. Even heating is important.
My first choice would be to make a new cable with thin wire and formed ends.
Stripped right sized copper twisted wire would work also. The ends could be solder tinned for forming instead of twisting...
The idea is to use stiff enough wire so the action does not create slack in the cable housing which would curtail the trigger travel and possibly not actuate the switch.
You are correct...soldering stainless is not easy...
Thanks again for pointing out the need for more explanation...
If Miles wants to bypass the switch I would use a foot switch for handheld operation; this would mimick the hand switch...maybe...
Thank you guys for all the helpful tips. It's overwhelming. I had considered trying to replace the cable but wasn't real sure what to use since the original wasn't available anymore. The original was stranded. I do have some solid stainless steel wire but not sure if it will work. There is one thing I wanted to add. After the cable passes through the the trigger it goes through a spring and then runs through a small feral with a screw in the side of it that holds the cable. I presume I'll still need to leave the spring in place once the new cable in installed otherwise the trigger won't work properly. Let me know if I'm wrong about this. Miles
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Agreed. I wouldn't change anything that doesn't have to be.
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The spring is necessary in order to help releasing the trigger. Without it the switch and trigger could stick in the on position.
Stainless is harder to work with so if you do use it, form/bend the ends (solid wire) to attach to the trigger and switch lever.
Stranded wire might need ends formed in some manner as to attach (knot, twist, ferrule,etc)...it depends on how much room you have.
Pictures will help and likely to get you more ideas from other members.
Stainless is harder to work with so if you do use it, form/bend the ends (solid wire) to attach to the trigger and switch lever.
Stranded wire might need ends formed in some manner as to attach (knot, twist, ferrule,etc)...it depends on how much room you have.
Pictures will help and likely to get you more ideas from other members.
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i don't belive the stainless solid will work , it may be to stiff ?? stranded will be flexable
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Awrighty then, Miles...sounds like if it wasn't for bad luck you might not have any at all...
It doesn't appear the switch is available either...your last resort, when it comes to it, might be to hardwire around the switch and use an external switch to control the router. That might be a bit uncomfortable if you use it handheld.
Is your primary use handheld or do you have it in a table...? If in a table, it will be easy and comfortable to use an external switch...
If you primarily use it handheld a comfortable solution might take a bit of experimenting. For example, you could use a momentary foot switch but only if you don't walk with the router along the piece.
Sounds like you have some thinking to do...
Another option might be to fabricate a switch into the handle and run the wires to where the switch is now instead of using the cable to transfer the motion. Many of the routers have the switch built right into the handle. Not sure of your fabricating skills but it might be worth a try...use your existing handle and put a switch behind it...
Good luck...
Hi Nick. It just so happens that I am getting a router table. So as you suggested I'll rig an external switch and leave the router attached to the table permanently. I'll probably just buy me another router in case I need one for jobs that don't require the table. I want to thank you and all the other members for your outstanding help. Your a great group of people who didn't hesitate to reach out and help a fellow woodworker. I'm extremely grateful. Take care everyone. Miles
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