I think I would try to keep the wax away from the edges. Any way you will be using to make the router slide nicer when you are routing. Just my two cents on this.

 

Thanks for the reply. Should have mentioned these jigs will be for the router table so I will probably wax all sides to make sure it will slide properly.

The jigs I have made for free hand work have all been hardboard so far but this MDF is pretty cheap.

 

Hi Roy

I use it on many of the jigs I make out of MDF and the router table tops,,,once it dries it hard and stops the water rings from pop cans, etc..

But you can recoat it easy unlike many other items that you can put on jigs to seal them up I like because it keeps the nasty finger prints off the jigs...I don't recall it coming off on to projects and I coat all the edges at the same time...



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Thanks Bob. Living in Houston, I will end up sweating on the jigs more than any thing . Lately is has been over 100 while working in the garage.

I had not seen Johnson's paste wax for years and it was hard to find at Lowes. Finally found it in the floor cleaner isle instead of the paint isle.

 

Ok 1 more question. Do I need to wax all exposed edges and box to balance out the moisture content so they will not warp when not in use?

Roy, you don't have to worry about MDF warping, but moisture will make it look and act like a sponge. So, if you will be getting any moisture on the jigs at all, and I'm well familiar with the Houston humidity, it is a good idea to seal them all over. When you apply the wax just let it set for a while to harden then buff with a soft (cotton) rag. It will not harm your projects in any way.

 

I used Minwax paste wax on my MDF top, the tablesaw, jointer, planer, etc.
Just don't use automotive wax. It has silicon that will mark your wood.

 

George & Mike, thanks for the tips.

I just checked the product I got again and it is the orignal formula SC Johnson Paste Wax. It does not list the ingredients but it is definitely the wood wax and not car wax.

I also have some pretty expensive bees wax (has some kind of varnish in it) but I think that would be overkill for this.

 

Roy,
Johnson's Paste Wax is perfect. Another money saving tip... If you need bees wax just go to the plumbing aisle and pick up a toilet bowl wax ring. Much cheaper and guess what?... It's bees wax.

 

Funny, I just threw away a new toliet bowl ring I bought extra after my last plumbing job. As you know that ring would not last but about 5 minutes in my garage.

The "bees wax" I bought was about a year ago from Woodcraft. I was trying different finishes and ended up using it on one of my poker tables. Nice stuff but I can get almost the same results with satin wipe on poly and some extra fine steel wool.

I will keep the toliet bowl ring idea in mind though. The usually go for about $2.

Thanks.

 

MDF soaks up for days until it reaches its saturation point. That can take forever.
I started painting all my MDF jigs(2) with wood glue. This seals it then a coat of wax slicks it right up. I got this idea from the craft store for sealing styrofoam before painting.

 

Templates that are going to be in regular use I laminate on both sides. I have used Johnsons wax polish for years on my cast iron router table, jointer and planer in and out feed tables, never a problem. As Mike pointed out, anything with Silicone is a NO NO, no finish that I've ever tried will go on top of even a minute spot of Silicone.

 

Harry,

What type of laminate do you use? That sounds pretty interesting.

On these first models I make I will try the wax first since I am on the cheap with all my expenses lately, but I would be interested in some laminate.

I just made some zero clearance inserts for my table saw by laminating some hardboard on junk plywood. It worked out pretty well but I am guessing you are using something a little nicer.

On the way out of work today, I reclaimed a couple of old monitor stands from the trash pile that are 1/2 MDF coated with a super thick plastic on melamine on both sides. They are pretty big and I can probably make a couple of pretty durable jigs from them as well.

Thanks for all the great ideas!

 

No the wax won't transfer to your work if you buff it well. As was stated on another post mdf needs to be sealed completely to slow the transfer of water vapor.

Regards

Jerry

 

I also use Johnson Paste wax on my top and jigs. But after a good coat of that - and it has totally dried - when I want the same to be very slippery again - I use Johnson baby powder. You want it slippery - and clean - try the baby powder. I also use it on my joiner/planer and table saw top.

 

Harry,

Very nice projects! I will have to look around and see if I can find a cabinet shop. Seems like in the suburbs of big cities like Houston it is harder to find dedicated shops like this.

Thanks.