PC7518 vs PC7539?

A few years ago I had the same questions you are asking and here was what I did. I got a PC7539 router and built my own router table. I built Norm Abram's New Yankee Workshop Deluxe Router Table. Yes - between the router and the table it cost me a fortune but I have no regrets. The router is perfect for what I wanted to do. The table is as solid as any table can be. I added a Router Razor to adjust the router heigth from above the table. I'm really glad I added that accessory. The first thing I made with my new setup was a raised panel door for the router table. I've attached a picture of the table.

You will get dozens of different answers to your questions because there is not a single answer. It's like asking somebody what kind of family car to purchase. You'll get good answers from everyone you ask and you'll get different answers from everyone you ask.

Whatever you decide, I hope you are happy with it once it's in your workshop and send us pictures of your new toy.

Bill

Hi and welcome aboard. Like Bill I also have had great experience with PC tools, and I also own a PC7539. I also own an Hitachi M12V. Both routers are variable speed with a soft start. These are two features you should definately insist on. For table routing I am in the process of making some modifications to the PC7539, to make it easier to adjust and set up. It will be the router that my custom system will be built around. I'm still working out the kinks, and I'll post some photos when and if I get them worked out.

One of the main reasons I'm putting the PC7539 in the table is it's weight, and high profile. I used it for some time as a hand held portable, but it is getting to be a chore. The Hatachi M12V on the other hand is a much easier to handle and also has good power.

I built the router table that Oak Park Enterprizes sells the plans for, http://www.oak-park.com/index.html . It is also the same basic table that Bob & Rick use on The Router Workshop. It was very economical to build, and so easy to use with their system and jigs. I had my M12V set up in it till I decided move my table mounted router to my tablesaw extension table. If you aren't familuar with The Router Workshop maybe you can catch it on your local PBS station. With their table, baseplate, guide bushings, and a couple of "C" clamps you will be in business.

I have changed out the baseplates on both routers to a 7" square with an 1.5" guide hole for the M12V for hand use, and an 11" square "Big Hole" for the PC7539 (which I customized to accept a reducer insert to reduce the 3.5" hole down to 1.5" hole to use bushings with) for table mounted use. Both sizes of base plates are available from Oak Park Interprizes for most of the popular brands of routers.

Good luck and let us know how you made out.

BmKiss, welcome to the forums. I am going to suggest a different route for you to consider. I have a PC 7518 that is going into a table I am building now. Most of my routing is done using a Bosch 1617. You can buy this 2-1/4 HP router with both a fixed and a plunge base for under $200. You mount the fixed base in a table and with a simple flip of a lever you release the motor to drop into the plunge base for freehand routing. Unless you are planning on constantly building raised panel doors this is a better solution because: You get the table mount and the added versatility of being able to freehand; the Bosch 1617 adjusts very easy when installed in a table eliminating the need to purchase an expensive router lift mechanism; and it saves you enough money to buy some decent router bits to get you started. You can do raised panel doors with a 2-1/4 HP router, the main difference is you will make your cut in a couple passes instead of hogging out all the wood in one pass. This is a good habit to have since it increases accuracy; as a rule you dont want to remove more than 1/4" of wood in a pass. The new Hitachi is similar in price and performance. I urge you to get your hands on the controls and see how the adjustments are made before you purchase any router. Go with what feels best to you.

I took the time to check out how the lock works. A phillip screw holds the handle on. Under the handle is a cloth pin type spring. Don't lose it, and not how it works before you remove it. The cast aluminum handle has a recessed imprint of the nut molded into the back. You can move the handle to make adjustments to the angle of the handle. The phillip screw goes through the handle and into the bolt. The bolt has reverse threads, and has a brass plug in the end to contact the router posts. Friction holds the router in the position you set by moving the lever which tightens the bolt.

I removed the clothes pin type spring. I put it in a zip lock bag and carefully marked what it is and where it goes, then put it in a safe place.

Instructions: With the handle off, turn the bolt (counter clockwise) with your fingers until it is snug against the post (locking the router position). Line up the flats on the backside of the handle with the flats on the bolt. Place the handle on the bolt leaving room to move it to the right to increase locking tension and not contact the router body. Replace the phillip screw. Check out the effectiveness of the locking mechenism before leaving the project. Make sure the router will lock and hold that lock during use.