Pen Boxes ... Work in Progress

15876 Views 67 Replies 9 Participants Last post by challagan, Dec 1, 2007

challagan

Discussion Starter · Nov 24, 2007 (Edited)

7

These are for some Christmas gifts. I have already turned the pens and now working on the boxes. They will be about 3 1/4 in depth and 7 3/4 long. Bases are 3/4 walnut and the tops are 3/8 maple.

Yesterday I built a new template holder as the previous one was just too shallow. This one works better and I also made this one to fit my Milescraft Spirocrafter. I used Template Tom's method of making a template... however I didnt' get a good glue joint on the lower part and it broke but it works fine that way and is actually allows me to use this one easier for making a one slot box.

I will post photos as I go along if you like. This is my first time making anything like this. I used a 1 inch guide in the router and a 5/8 dish cutter bit that I got from Oak Park. Neat little router bit!

Photo 1 - The new template holder.

Photo 2 - The template and the cutter.

Photo 3 - The 1 inch guide in the router.

Photo 4 - The workpiece in the holder with the furniture blocking in place.

Photo 5 - The template in place over the workpiece and ready to begin routing.

Photo 6 - The first slot is routed. It was done in 4-5 passes to a depth of 5/8" and the remaining slot was routed in this work piece and 2 more as well.

Photo 7 - The final routed pieces. I was pleased how they turned out. Slick little router bit. Before I came to Router Forums I would never have even considered doing something like this. I don't like making templates but beats the heck out of paying 25.00 for one.

After messing around further it became apparent that the pen box will not close flat on the pen so I will need to route the tops 1/8 deep as well. I am also undecided as to whether I want to make these hinged boxes or sliding dovetails. Still thinking on it.

More to come... thanks for looking!

Corey

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bobj3

· #2 · Nov 24, 2007

Hi Corey

Looking good, can wait to see the finish box

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challagan

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 24, 2007 (Edited)

3

Some additional shots after routing the tops.

Photo 8 - Completed routing of box top.

Photos 9 & 10 - Box bases and tops.

More to come, Now to think about how I want to finish them, with hinges or sliding dovetails. Thinking that for pen boxes hinges are more functional. Now kerf hinges or barrel hinges

Thanks for looking.

Corey

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challagan

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 24, 2007

Thanks Bob! I appreciate it.

corey

Bob N

· #5 · Nov 24, 2007

Corey,

GREAT creativity on finding an excellent way to make those. I will be following this thread closely as you already know that it is a project I need to master as well.

Thanks for taking the time to do and share an excellent WIP with us bottom feeders

btw.... after further thought, the hinge route may work best after all.

Joe Lyddon

· #6 · Nov 24, 2007

challagan said:
Some additional shots after routing the tops.

Corey

Hi Corey,

Looking real good!

How deep are you making each groove for the pens?

I would think close to 1/2+ a tad of the pen diameter would be desired.

... just curious...

Do you also make more than one cutting pass?

Again, looks good!!

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challagan

Discussion Starter · #7 · Nov 24, 2007 (Edited)

Thanks Bob! I am thinking kerf hinges at this point

Thanks Joe, as per photo 6 the grooves are 5/8 deep and done in 4-5 passes. It just depended on how far I plunged it the first time. I just set the max depth and cut it in stages. Tried to cut about 1/8 on the last pass.

Thanks all,

Corey

challagan

Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 25, 2007 (Edited)

6

OK, on to the hinges. I decided that hinges were the way to go. Just seems for a pen box an easy open box is better. I decided to use the kerf hinges as well. I used the smaller of the hinges I have, not sure on the size.

Photo 11 - This is my set up for cutting the kerfs for the hinges. The arbor and blade are chucked up in the drill press and I have my sled set up as well. Basically you must lock in 2 measurements. The forward travel must be set to bottom out before it blows thru the top on the 3/8 maple. That same setting will be used on the walnut but there isn't any chance to blow thru the 3/4 walnut. The stop is set to approx 9/32nds which is half the size of the hing and should put the barrel of the hinge right in the middle. I also set it up to cut 1/4 inch from the back edge and 1/4 inch in from the sides. I do all of the left sides and then flip everything and cut the right sides. When flipping it I only need to set the stop in from the side.

Photo 12 - Live shot cutting the right side of one of the 3/8 maple top piece.

Photo 13 - Live shot cutting the right side of the 3/4 walnut base piece.

Photo 14 - All the kerfs have been cut in all 6 pieces of stock. This is a shot of how the kerfs look when done.

Photo 15 - This shot shows when the hinges are installed in the work piece for fit. Note that I have flattened the barbs out on this set of hinges and they are used for testing and slip fitting. The next step will be to put a rabbet down the back of the box that the barrel of of the hinge will sit in. Then a 45 degree chamfer will be made on both pieces to allow the top to open back and stay open.

Photos -16 - The last shot for the day... another shot of the hinge slip fitted in.

Tomorrow I will pull out the mini router table and chuck up a 3 /8 straight bit in the Colt and make the rabbets on all work pieces and then set the chamfers. Once that is done it is a matter of round overs and sanding. I am surprised at how much I got done today on these and happy with the progress so far.

More to follow... thanks for looking.

Corey

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Hamlin

· #9 · Nov 25, 2007

Looking really good there Corey. Keep up the good work.

Dr.Zook

· #10 · Nov 25, 2007

Very nice Corey, and Harry and I are loving the pictures. Keep them coming.

bobj3

· #11 · Nov 25, 2007

Very slick Corey I need to get some of the hinges , can you post the link again for them..

Just asking why are you still using the drill press to put the slots in,, I think I just recalled why , they are scary to use in the router table and the be Jesus will show up again..

Keep the picture coming bud

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challagan

Discussion Starter · #12 · Nov 25, 2007

bobj3 said:
Very slick Corey I need to get some of the hinges , can you post the link again for them..

Just asking why are you still using the drill press to put the slots in,, I think I just recalled why , they are scary to use in the router table and the be Jesus will show up again..

Keep the picture coming bud

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I will get you the links Bob. Yeah, I am not comfortable doing it in the router table. Doug Stowe does but it will probably smoke the blades in real hard material... but they are cheap anyway at Grizzly! BTW, anyone wanting to get the arbor and saw blades don't get them from Rockler or Woodcraft. You will pay way to much for the same thing you can get at Grizzly! They cost 30.00 for the arbor and 20.00 for the blades from those other sources and Grizzly sells the exact same thing for much much less. I will post all the links!

Corey

harrysin

· #13 · Nov 25, 2007

Corey my friend, you really have been paying attention, I and I'm sure Tom when he sees this thread will be very proud that another member has taken to template making and plunge routing. There could be few members who would not agree that the way you have made these boxes was easier, safer, more accurate and more pleasurable than using the router table. Just one point, whilst in this case there was room for the router to move freely within the jig holder, normally the template would be slightly higher than the sides so that the router is not obstructed, this is achieved by placing a piece of suitable thickness MDF into the jig holder first, followed by the jig, material and finally the template. I haven't seen hinges fitted like this and am having difficulty understanding how the box can open as there is so much overhanging box/lid.
You're photo-shoot was of course of a very high standard. You comparative youngsters who have taken to this method of routing will soon be overtaking this old geezer, I think that I might have to book some more lessons with Template Tom in the hope of keeping slightly ahead! Keep up the good work Corey.

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challagan

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 25, 2007

bobj3 said:
Very slick Corey I need to get some of the hinges , can you post the link again for them..

Just asking why are you still using the drill press to put the slots in,, I think I just recalled why , they are scary to use in the router table and the be Jesus will show up again..

Keep the picture coming bud

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Here's what you don't want to buy due to cost:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3744
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18652&filter=Hinge Arbor

Here is what you want to buy, same thing:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Slitting-Saw-Arbor/G1438

http://www.grizzly.com/products/HSS-Slitting-Saws-2-x-1-16-x-1-2-28T/G9466

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2007/Main/614

Hinges, I do buy these from either Rockler or Woodcraft:

http://www.rockler.com/search_results.cfm?filter=Hinge+Arbor&submit.x=0&submit.y=0

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3744

Corey

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challagan

Discussion Starter · #15 · Nov 25, 2007 (Edited)

Thanks Ken and Dave. Harry thanks! You are right on the sides of course. I tested that prior to beginning that there would be no interrupted travel so I went with it. Otherwise I would of needed to raise the template. I have a 1/2 base that I made to fit in that holder that can be seen in some of the other photos. Much happier with this holder than the previous one.

Harry, it will become evident tomorrow on the hinges. Most of that material will be removed in the next steps. First a rabbet will be cut that that the barrel of the hinge will sit in. That's the hard part, not making it to big. Then using a 45 degree chamfer bit I will chamfer the top and bottom using trial and error to the point that they top opens up and has a built in stop.

Corey

harrysin

· #16 · Nov 25, 2007

Now it's making sense Corey, I'll have difficulty sleeping tonight waiting to see the next stages. It's obvious that you are getting a kick out of this project, I can foresee all the forums pen makers taking this path, it's so repeatable. A thought has just occurred to me regarding making the hinge slots which looked like a lot of fiddling to get the set-up just right. I wonder if the slotting blade could be fitted into a biscuit jointer, if it could, cutting the slots would take just seconds, just a thought, I'm sure Bj. will suss out any snags in my thinking.

challagan

Discussion Starter · #17 · Nov 25, 2007

harrysin said:
Now it's making sense Corey, I'll have difficulty sleeping tonight waiting to see the next stages. It's obvious that you are getting a kick out of this project, I can foresee all the forums pen makers taking this path, it's so repeatable. A thought has just occurred to me regarding making the hinge slots which looked like a lot of fiddling to get the set-up just right. I wonder if the slotting blade could be fitted into a biscuit jointer, if it could, cutting the slots would take just seconds, just a thought, I'm sure Bj. will suss out any snags in my thinking.

Harry, that I am not sure on, however, it sounds like a lot of fussing but it took me about 15 minutes and i was cutting the first slot on the drill press and i am a fusser .. remeasuring and remeasuring

The sled just takes a few minutes to make.. just a piece of plywood and a fence screwed on to it. Shallow side used for lids like this and deeper side to the camera is used for traditional made boxes. It can be done on the router table as well but that raises the pucker factor for me and I like the rpm involved on the drill press.
I really like these hinges. I can do these fine, but I have a hell of a time with the little 5mm barrel hinges!

Corey

harrysin

· #18 · Nov 25, 2007

What diameter is the slotting blade Corey?

challagan

Discussion Starter · #19 · Nov 25, 2007 (Edited)

harrysin said:
What diameter is the slotting blade Corey?

Harry, I believe that one is either 2 inches or 2 1/4 inches in diameter and .025 thick. Harry, am I dreaming it or do I remember you picking up a blade arbor like this at the woodworking show several months ago when you got your Triton router?

corey

bobj3

· #20 · Nov 25, 2007

Hi Harry

"I wonder if the slotting blade could be fitted into a biscuit jointer "

Nope,,,the error comes into play becasue of the size of hole (arbor size) in most biscuit jointers ,they use a big blade ( 4" blade the norm) you get a blade to fit but it would be to big in the OD and it's needs to real thin blade in order to get the hinges to work right..if I recall the blade that Corey is using is about 1 3/4" OD (sliting saw blade,HSS )

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