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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i would like to buy a program for making a picture frame with my cnc. i am new to this so i would want the g-code as i don't really know how to
get there yet and i dont have the time to research and trial/error it.
 

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Ken - this subject has come up before and the common question is . . . .
how many frames do you intend to make and what would be the average size ?
and - do you have some sample photos, drawings, sketches, etc. to share ?
(just out of curiosity).
 

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John
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Go online and search for picture frame( svg, eps, png, dxf, clipart files )
Download for moderate price
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·


i need to do six 5/7 and two 8/9 now. i think v carve will reset tool paths if i change the dimensions. not looking for overly intricate 3d right now, later on.
 

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I've done a dozen or so picture frames, using VCarvePro as my CAD/CAM software. For some, I've used the included clipart as my starting point for the design/profile. A lot depends on what sort of profile you are looking for. You suggest that you have Vcarve. You can the moulding toolpath to create and cut pretty much anything you can design.
 

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Mike
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Picture frame Rectangle Wood Twig Triangle

Is this what you are wanting to do? If so it would be easier to just do it in VCarve Pro. Why not learn VCarve Pro instead of another program that will only give you something that will need to be imported into VCarve Pro anyway?
 

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not sure if you are looking for program to make picture frame "stock", which you would then rabbet, miter, and assemble. or, are you looking for a program to cut the entire frame out of a plank as in Mike's post above.
 

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As a follow up to Tim's post, if you have VCarve, you can make your frames either way. I have done frames cut from a piece of MDF, cutting the rabbet in the back, then cutting the profile in the front. I have also made a frame on my other shop machines, and used VCarve to design the profile to be carved on the front.
 

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Or...... You could also search for Free Picture Frames .stl and just find some to your liking and resize to your desired dimensions.
 

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Not sure if the offer is still available, but when I paid the ransom for my VCarve Pro license, there were various free drawing packages that you pick one and I chose the molding one but haven't tried it out yet. Not sure if you CNC cut the profile on the molding first and then make the frame as usual, or make the frame then put it on the CNC and cut the molding profile into the finished frame. I'm so new at this so far all I have accomplished is leveling my wasteboard and etching a grid on it. My first sign didn't work out because I crashed my only engraving bit into the work piece then my substitute bit was the wrong size for the letters...but I learned a lot.
 

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Not sure if the offer is still available, but when I paid the ransom for my VCarve Pro license, there were various free drawing packages that you pick one and I chose the molding one but haven't tried it out yet. Not sure if you CNC cut the profile on the molding first and then make the frame as usual, or make the frame then put it on the CNC and cut the molding profile into the finished frame. I'm so new at this so far all I have accomplished is leveling my wasteboard and etching a grid on it. My first sign didn't work out because I crashed my only engraving bit into the work piece then my substitute bit was the wrong size for the letters...but I learned a lot.
Try watching the Vectic videos as you're obviously a new user, and it's not ransom for the pro license. If you're going to play with the big boy toys then you have to pay for professional tools.
 

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New user, new learner, woodworker for many years and love the technology. I have no regrets for buying the Vectric, it did take a chunk out of my already drained budget but it is a great investment and it goes along with my 'buy it nice or buy it twice' philosophy. I tried a bootlegged copy of Aspire and couldn't figure it out at all and gave up on that route. The videos are a big help and there is no shortage of them and also found other helpful videos outside of the Vectric site. I do have a couple of questions BTW, when I do the Ref All Home on my Mach3, the spindle homes but should it be centered over the very lower left corner of the work surface? Mine is actually about 14 mm left of the work surface on the X and I think the Y is a bit out in space too, but I am able to compensate since I don't put my project that close to the edge. Also my table has an aluminum T-slot surface with a hard rubber type of surface glued on. My wasteboard is 1/4" MDF strips cut to the width of the sections. I used double sided tape strips but it is not holding. I'm going to try rubber cement and see if it works. I need a temporary adhesive that will work, what do you think?
 

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Since you say you're running Mach3 I'm going to assume it's a Chinese made machine. When you home in Mach3 it raises the Spindle, move the X to the far Left, and then brings the Y to the front of the machine. This is then know as machine Home. You can then move the X and Y to a location of your choosing and then Zero out the X and Y. This is then known as Work Coordinates. There is a button in Mach3 that allow you to toggle between Home Coordinates and Work Coordinates. Your work would show Zero for the X and Y, and then your Home would show how far the X and Y are from the Home position. I would use T-bolts to hold your sacrificial board if you're cutting all the way through, and jst clamps if you're just doing light carving. Also, once you've set up your work coordinates and finished a job you can click on the Go To Zero button and it takes you back, ready to cut another piece if you're doing multiples. I've got 3 systems running Mach 3, and that's my process, and I've never cared for double sided tape or rubber cement, however you might try Hot Glue. Hope this helps you.
 

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Thanks for validating what I've been doing with the home and x,y,z coordinates. At least I know I'm on the right track from that standpoint. Maybe I'm overthinking the wasteboard situation. I leveled the MDF that's on there and if I clamp a workpiece on, everything is held down and secure. I have 3 strips loose on the end at the Y-0 position and a shot of hot glue will probably work. I don't plan on going that close to the bottom anyhow. Plus taking notes while I'm testing and learning helps a lot. That's how I became a self-proclaimed BBQ Pitmaster, a legend in my own mind.
 
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