I've lost it - Having no planer, I'm tired of using the belt sander for thickness planing, not to mention the swirling dust - I know I saw a jig or setup for floating a router over material for thickness planing but now I can't put my finger on it - anybody got a link or plans for that?
A few weeks ago, I had to flatten a board... I don't have a thickness planer, etc....
I thought of the Router method...
I quickly made a jig to do it...
It was super simple and it worked great!!
Here is what I did:
First of all, my board was about 3/4" thick and had a slight curve in it... it was about 24" long and 10" wide... looking at the board from the end, it had a slight bow over the 10" width.
I took four pieces of 1 x 2 (3/4") Ash.
(anything that would not bend from the router weight)
2 of them (about 32" long) were left at that length;
the length of the other 2 boards were trimmed as follows...
Lay the 2 long boards on the bench vertically (North/South) side by side.
Take the router you intend to use and place it on those 2 boards so it's supported by them... Have a 1/2" straight bit in it...
Now, move the router to the right until the bit stops it...
Move the board on the left so it supports the left side of the router by a safe 1/2". That is the Key distance that those 2 boards have to be so the router can be moved up / down and sideways without dropping through the boards.
Place one of the other 2 boards across the boards where you had the router... with about 2-3" hanging over each side
of the N/S boards, Mark it and cut it.
Cut another piece the same length.
Place one of the short boards over the N/S boards, centered, and about 2-3" from the top (North) end.
No glue required... just a couple of screws at each intersection.
Place the board you want to flatten, bow UP
, on the bench oriented East/West... Hook the screwed short board over the board to be flattened... Fasten the other short board (with just screws) across the long boards so the Workpiece can slide between the 2 short boards the full length (24" in this case).
The short boards should be as thick to keep the long boards just above the workpiece... In my case, 1" or so...
The jig is done... now use it...
Turn it so the short boards are on the bench and the workpiece can slide through the opening.
MAKE SURE THE ROUTER CAN SLIDE FROM SIDE TO SIDE AND END TO END WITHOUT FALLING THROUGH THE LEFT/RIGHT SUPPORTING BOARDS.
Adjust your bit depth so it takes a small amount of wood... tighten it good.
It's a good idea to clamp things down a little...
keeping them out of the way,
Now, you have the router in place, in the open area, turn it on, and slowly move the router forward / backward and then to the side for more... get it all cleaned out...
Move the workpiece over to expose more to be flattened, with some overlap... and continue til done...
Adjust the bit, as required, to get to the final depth... and do it again.
(it might be possible for you to do it all in one pass)
Now, turn it over, onto the flattened side, and do the same to that side!
Caution: When moving the router across the board, ALWAYS keep the router flat on the guide boards... if you make any tilting movements, YOU MAY GOUGE THE WORKPIECE...
learned that the hard way.
It takes a little router movement, but it goes by fast, and you will like the results!