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Using a plunge bit in a router table is it safe to let the wood down on the bit. Of coarse you would need to use the fence. I am talking about bits that are larger than 1/2".
 

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I would pre drill a good starting hole .
 

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stop block the end so it doesn't kick back and feather board it to the fence so it it doesn't separate from the fence...
can you raise the bit into the work and add a hold doen feather board???

are you slot cutting???
better to use a plunge router w/ a clamp on fence and take take the router to the work....
 
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Discussion Starter #4
stop block the end so it doesn't kick back and feather board it to the fence so it it doesn't separate from the fence...
can you raise the bit into the work and add a hold doen feather board???

are you slot cutting???
better to use a plunge router w/ a clamp on fence and take take the router to the work....
I was slot cutting yesterday with a 1/4" carbide bit. I lowered a piece of 1 1/4" wide by 8" long wood on the bit but I made the slot in three passes. I have no plans to make a larger slot but you can never tell. I am just asking the question so I will know the answer in case I need to.
 

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Yes Don this is a commonly used method taught on the Router Workshop, Woodsmith and other woodworking shows. I use this method all the time. Putting painters tape on your fence and marking your start stop positions on it makes for high visibility and easy clean up.
 

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I prefer to do like Harry does and use the plunge router on the job. That puts your hands in the safest place possible, i.e. nowhere near the bit. Lots do slotting on the table but there is a risk that the piece can get away from you and since you are holding on tightly if it does get start to get away there is a split second until your brain tells you to let go and your hand is being pulled along with the piece. The problem is that you only contact one corner of the bit first. If you ever have tried drilling with a large Forstner bit and you started at an angle then you know what happens.

If you go ahead and do the slotting on a table then use stop blocks to eliminate any motion in that direction leaving only motion away from the fence as a possibility and be aware of what can go wrong so that if you do start to lose control that your reflexes will be prepared to let go faster.
 

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My vote is with the hand held approach. I had a near miss once - don't care to repeat it (still trying to not learn the hard way)

I made a template out of 1/2" BB that I use actually quite a bit, anytime I need a "slot like" cut. Just a simple sheet 1'x3' (whatever) with a 1" slot cut in it to guide a 1" bushing and whatever bit I want to use. I made 2 centering keys for it (fits into the slot, with centerlines to match for setup.)
 

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My vote is with the hand held approach. I had a near miss once - don't care to repeat it (still trying to not learn the hard way)

I made a template out of 1/2" BB that I use actually quite a bit, anytime I need a "slot like" cut. Just a simple sheet 1'x3' (whatever) with a 1" slot cut in it to guide a 1" bushing and whatever bit I want to use. I made 2 centering keys for it (fits into the slot, with centerlines to match for setup.)
Why don't you take a picture and post it for us? If you need help with how to do it just ask and I'll walk you through it.
 

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Slotting Template

Why don't you take a picture and post it for us? If you need help with how to do it just ask and I'll walk you through it.
Sorry it took so long - shop was a mess. Anyway I generally use double sided tape from template to part, align the template using the key to the slot CL on both ends and clamp the whole thing down. I only had to fiddle with getting this slot straight.

A 1" guide bushing on a plunge router enables most slot configurations I have needed. Its an easier setup than a dado jig. (First photo - I zip tie the keys to the template for safe keeping)
 

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