Plunge Router Suggestions
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Thanks for the feedback. Does it have a smooth plunge mechanism with no side to side play? Since you are using it in a router table I'm guess that is not much of an issue for you.
Also do you know what the difference between the M12VE and M12V2 is - is the M12VE just a newer version of the M12V2.
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in that case you want a Bosch 1619..
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Ravin, here is a good place to look and buy routers and other woodworking tools. I and others here on this forum have bought from them. They have very good customer service.
https://www.cpooutlets.com/routers-and-trimmers/routers-and-trimmers,default,sc.html
https://www.cpooutlets.com/routers-and-trimmers/routers-and-trimmers,default,sc.html
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Please consider a smaller router for hand-held plunge use. About the only thing a smaller router won't do is spin panel-raising bits. A 3 HP router is just so large and cumbersome and heavy. It's fine to install in a table, but like trying to drive a tack with a sledgehammer to use handheld.
You are spot on as regards horse power. The Hitachi is a fine router but I prefer the Makita
RP2301FC, compare the two by plunging with only one finger. In fact, try this test on all the routers that you can find in the shops.
RP2301FC, compare the two by plunging with only one finger. In fact, try this test on all the routers that you can find in the shops.
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I agree absolutely on the weight part, Ravin. I have both a Bosch 1619EVS and a 1617EVSPK (finally!), and the size and weight difference is remarkable. I much prefer the lighter 1617.
You're right though; if you're plunging and dadoing with a 3/4" mortising or straight bit in tough wood, you'd certainly notice the difference in power.
Re what you and Stick were talking about re the precise plunge action with the Bosch 1619EVS...mine's been trouble free. Also, if you want to use it in a table you can lock the plunge springs out without having to disassemble anything, not so for other brands.
You're right though; if you're plunging and dadoing with a 3/4" mortising or straight bit in tough wood, you'd certainly notice the difference in power.
Re what you and Stick were talking about re the precise plunge action with the Bosch 1619EVS...mine's been trouble free. Also, if you want to use it in a table you can lock the plunge springs out without having to disassemble anything, not so for other brands.
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I used a 3 1/2 hp router hand held ONCE!!! Since then I use 2 1/4 hp and smaller routers hand held. 3 hp and larger routers are too heavy and to large to be using hand held. In a router table yes, but a fixed base router is easier to adjust in a router table.
Charley
Charley
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I have a Triton 3 1/4hp router. It is heavy. The shipping weight of the carton is 16 pounds. Subtract a couple of pounds for packaging, rail guide, and wrench, and it is still heavy. Just sayin'
Mounted in the router table, it works great.
I have used it for surfacing a board larger than my planer and it worked just fine. Still heavy, though.
Mounted in the router table, it works great.
I have used it for surfacing a board larger than my planer and it worked just fine. Still heavy, though.
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Thanks everyone for the feedback and suggestions. I have not really been doing much woodworking until recently and most of my needs to date have been met by the Harborfreight 2-1/2 HP router. It also weighs around 16lbs and I've done a fair bit of portable routing with it so I'm familiar with how it feels to handle a router that kind of weight. However for plunging the mechanism is really horrible and really won't do for any kind of precision work. To be fair I originally bought it to make some profiles for molds for forming decorative concrete blocks which did not require much precision. But it's time to move to a decent tool.
My reasoning for getting something in the 3+HP range was to have something powerful enough to do things like cutting mortises and through mortises and to have the extra power as needed. I do understand the downsides about weight.
I will take a look at all of the suggested models. Yes it would be nice to walk in somewhere and actually get to hold and play around with the plunge mechanism to see what feels good. Not sure there is such a place around here but I will investigate.
My reasoning for getting something in the 3+HP range was to have something powerful enough to do things like cutting mortises and through mortises and to have the extra power as needed. I do understand the downsides about weight.
I will take a look at all of the suggested models. Yes it would be nice to walk in somewhere and actually get to hold and play around with the plunge mechanism to see what feels good. Not sure there is such a place around here but I will investigate.
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Ravin; where's "here"? There maybe other members with a recommendation as to where you can get your hands on one. A lot of lumberyards will host a specific Manufacturers' Open House, where you can actually try stuff out.
Check out the Manufacturers you might be interested in to see if they show a date on their website.
(I just checked and couldn't find a calendar at Bosch; I e-mailed for more info.)
Check out the Manufacturers you might be interested in to see if they show a date on their website.
(I just checked and couldn't find a calendar at Bosch; I e-mailed for more info.)
Dan - I'm in San Diego, California. There is a Rockler not too far from me - I do go in from time to time to buy stuff - they may have something for me to look at but I think I only see larger tools on display. Also I can check with the two lumber yards I go to go get lumber if they have any open days coming up. I will also check with the manufacturer websites - thanks for the suggestion.
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My local Rockler carries the Bosch line of routers.
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I think maybe you should get the Bullworker out, Charley. :wink: A lot of carpenters use large "3-1/2HP" (in my terms 1800 to 2300 watt) plunge routers precisely because they have enough depth of plunge and the power to back it up on jobs like mortising, cutting post-formed worktop (counter top) mason's mitre joints, cutting housings (dados), etc - all tasks for which a fixed base router is either inconvenient or just plain dangerous. If you use them because you need them then you learn to live with them, although the medium sized (1200 to 1600 watt) plungers are admittedly a lot lighter on my old arms (and therefore more pleasant to use), especially when doing one of those "catch-up" jobs where someone needs to spend 4 or 5 hours routing stuff, The downside is that have a lot less grunt and they lack the depth of cut (often 50 to 55mm as opposed to 70 to 80mm of the heavyweights), As with everything there are compromises.
Overall these days I tend to be doing less heavy carpentry so the medium-sized router works better for me as a main router although I am lucky enough to have retained my "big hitter" as well for the onegtime in 20 that I need loads of power. At the risk of almost blaspheming, I've tried the American-style separate motor and base routers (for example I have a Bosch 1618evs with a plunge base) and in plunge form that router is just big, heavy and bulky in comparison to a purpose-made plunger of similar performance. The table option has far less influence on me because of the sort of work I do, and I'm less than convinced by the low centre of gravity argument some folk use when defending their choice of a fixed base router
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I have both a M12V and the V2 as well as a VC. I've looked at the VE and I think they went back towards the V model with that design. I don't know everything it's capable of but the throat opening on the V is smaller than the V2 and it looks like the VE is the same as the V. The V2 came with unscrewable plugs in the plunge columns to make it easy to remove the springs for table use. The V2 also has above the table adjustment capability. You take the phenolic base plate off and there is a 14mm nut that you can put a socket on and turn the adjusting screw with. The V didn't have that option. The V2 was really designed as a table router but wasn't advertised as one.
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From everything I can find, the Bosch 1619 has been discontinued and there is no new model to replace it.
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