Pocket screws on CNC?

That is a neat system. We use the KREG jigs to make pocket screws. I like the Cabineo system, but without a CNC router, it is challenging to bore the correct pockets in the correct locations for a tight fit.

No matter WHAT is used, if you are relying on the integrity of particle board, you pays your money, and you takes your chances! Speaking only for myself, I would rather SEE strong, secure hardware connecting the panels, than rely on course low grade metal screws to "bite" into the particle board and still hold when I pass the furniture to my grandchildren.

I have never been a fan of ANYTHING made from particle board. I like real wood.

Joe

The Hobbyist said:

That is a neat system. We use the KREG jigs to make pocket screws. I like the Cabineo system, but without a CNC router, it is challenging to bore the correct pockets in the correct locations for a tight fit.

No matter WHAT is used, if you are relying on the integrity of particle board, you pays your money, and you takes your chances! Speaking only for myself, I would rather SEE strong, secure hardware connecting the panels, than rely on course low grade metal screws to "bite" into the particle board and still hold when I pass the furniture to my grandchildren.

I have never been a fan of ANYTHING made from particle board. I like real wood.

Joe

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I should have mentioned this is for a plywood cabinet set. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum, @RiceJ

RiceJ said:

I should have mentioned this is for a plywood cabinet set. Thanks.

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First, I am a rank amateur at woodworking. I claim ZERO knowledge about the best way to do anything with wood. However, I am a firm believer in the theory that just because you CAN hide hardware doesn't mean you SHOULD hide hardware. If the cabinet set is garage storage, I would make it as strong as possible and not worry about metal braces and bolt/screw heads showing.

If you are making this for a cabin on the lake, then you might not want the industrial look of metal braces etc. , so you begin to search for ways to conceal the hardware. To each, his own. I am not a fan of concealed hardware.

Joe

I played around with cutting pocket screw cuts using my CNC. The ramped slot on the face is easy to do if your CNC software has a toolpath that can ramp down a bit. I use Aspire from Vectric.com and it has a fluting toolpath that will ramp a bit down a single vector.
What the CNC can't usually do is the side hole for the screw to come through. Then use a doweling jig to drill the aligned hole in the edges.
I've also played with embedding a square nut near the edge of plywood parts for reliable threads for 1/4-20 or M6 bolts.
I've also got a CNC that can clamp boards vertically so I can cut tenons/tenon rows on the edge of plywood to join into mortises/mortise rows I've cut flat on the joining part.
4D

It is a flat pack furniture manufacturer solution to simplify connections between panels. An injection molded part to set in a CNC cut pocket to accomplish the benefit of a pocket screw without actually using a pocket screw jig or machine step.

You can use a Forstner bit to drill a hole to set it into, but that removes material the CNC cut pocket would leave for more strength at the connection.
4D

Thank you 4DThinker. Do you know where they can be purchased?

I suspect they are a proprietary in-house solution developed for Ikea or a similar flat pack furniture company. I could find no clue on the web where they might be sold if they are.

Welcome to the forum @pelicanmedia

Welcome to the forum, @pelicanmedia

4DThinker said:

I suspect they are a proprietary in-house solution developed for Ikea or a similar flat pack furniture company. I could find no clue on the web where they might be sold if they are.

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Thank you for looking. I think you're correct and these plastic inserts aren't available commercially.

I'm kind of late to the party, but welcome.

Do check the website for whatever company the parts came from and ask if they know where you can purchase more. Sometimes you get lucky that way.

I have experience with all the hardware shown above. Barrel nuts and bolts work find if you don't mind seeing the bolt head on the outside. There are metric and imperial thread versions out there and a good selection of bolt head types you can use with them. The cams/eccentric wheels can be used with a stud. The studs require what is usually a plastic press in insert to screw into, and require careful alignment between the stud holes and the cams. Depending on the end use and forces the design has to withstand the barrel nut + bolt will be a stronger connection.
4D

Just wanted to say THANK YOU to all, for all the great info. Much appreciated!

pelicanmedia said:

Just wanted to say THANK YOU to all, for all the great info. Much appreciated!

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It is amazing how much information is available here. This string surprised me and I learned a few things. Good question.

Related to this a tapered slot can be cut with a ball end bit or end mill to mimic what a pocket screw jig does. In VCarve/Aspire there is a fluting toolpath that will ramp the bit down from beginning to end of the vector. What it doesn't do is put the hole for the screw shaft through the end, but that isn't hard to do just using a long drill bit and a handheld drill. I've done this a few times for student projects where a pocket screw would be useful but no jig was on hand.
4D