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Maybe this is what you are looking for. Go to the following web page to find out about the tilting router table from Hawk Woodworking tools.

http://hawkwoodworkingtools.com/s/static/routershop_one/routershop_one.htm

There is a plan for building one in the December 2000, issue 129, from Wood magazine. If you don't have that issue try finding it at you local library. Most library's keep back issues from previous years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
....

well, took a look at the link (thanks!!) but that is not really what i am after :p

i guess i am really looking for a router with a tilt base or a trim router (with a tilt base) that can handle 3/4" plywood!? never actually used a trim/laminate router (!?!?) but it seems based on the power ratings they are a bit like routers from the 70's.. maybe they could handle it .. just obviously it would wear out!?

thanks for your help! and i would of course appreciate any more suggestions/comments!
 

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I have not seen any modern full size routers with a tilt base. I have an idea why this is but no proof. I did a quick sketch to show what I think this issue is. In the first sketch we have router with 6" sub base, a 1/2" bit with 1" of cutter exposed. The wood is 3/4" for reference.

The second sketch show what the router would look like if tilted 30 deg. The third one show the bit now exposed 2".... When you get much over the 30 deg angle the bits would just not be long enough and even at 30 deg you are talking a very long bit with an over all length in excess of 3" to make the cut shown.

Trim routers have a smaller base but are also limited to 1/4" bits.... a lot of limitations to how this could be done.

Now having said that maybe if you explain what you are trying to do we might come up with a few new ideas for you??????

Ed
 

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Doug
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There's nothing that says you couldn't mount that woodhaven Angle-ease to a large sub base with nice handles and use it above the table, but I don't know how you are planning to control it. With the bit at an angle, there won't be a way to pilot it accurately without some sort of fence on your sub base.

Maybe a set of Chamfer bits will do the same thing as what you're trying to do. Check out http://pricecutter.com/html/catalog/productGroup.asp/486 (you'll have to cut and paste the link) $99 will get you a set of 5 cutters that will do 16,12,8,6, and 4 sided boxes, and each will cut at least 7/8 in thick.

Ed's right, a little more insight as to what you're trying to do might help us come up with alternatives
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
a little more info!?

in order to try to better explain the situation, (i first tried to write a better explanation, but, well..) i attached a picture .. ed, you were pretty much right on!!

that in a nutshell is what i am trying to do..with some specifics even! (sorry it is in metric!?.. 50mm =~ 2", 110mm =~4.3"! 13mm=~1/2") the only thing i think is really unclear is that the jig is one piece ( a "U" shape), the bit has an 8mm shank and that the router uses the flat edge at the base to ride along to keep the bit as low as possible

not entirely sure, but my guess is that this could be ok as it is, but i would like to replace the jig with something that i can setup faster/easier.. without having to make a new jig for every specific cut.. but really (as i guess i know) it is of course best to make specific jigs if i need to be doing a lot of these; the problem is that we end up doing a number of prototypes and well, need to speed things up, and it would be nice to be able to make angle adjustments on the fly.

i guess, the feed rate will have to be quite slow and/or make many passes to keep the bit from straying, or well, .. bending. we have been kicking around a couple ideas, but i think we may just give this a try first to see how much of a problem we get from deflection. if you guys have ever done anything like this, let me know!

.. i got to say, ya'll have been really great help already! great forum!
 

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