[rkruz3]

My just bought a used 7518 with a lift and the speed wanders on the 1 setting and all other settings go to max speed.
Ive blown and cleaned but no fix. The card is $130.
Ive read that replacing electrolytic caps will fix it but that must be for another model because the caps look inaccessible.
And Ive read suggestions to use the Harbor Freight Speed Controller vs repair I guess becuase it cant be repaired.
Could it possibly be caused by worn carbon blocks?
Anyway your insights repair it.
Thanks!

 

[Stick486]

bypass it and use an external speed controller...

.

 

[rkruz3]

Thanks very much. The diagram is very helpful to bypass.
OK so you provide this because the cap replacement idea is not going to work on this speed controller board.
will the Harbor Freight speed controller be adequate? Its rated at 15A as is the router. Since its a table mount Im not so concerned about the soft start. Thanks!

 

[Stick486]

Thanks very much. The diagram is very helpful to bypass.
OK so you provide this because the cap replacement idea is not going to work on this speed controller board.
will the Harbor Freight speed controller be adequate? Its rated at 15A as is the router. Since its a table mount Im not so concerned about the soft start. Thanks!

I replaced the caps in mine..
as the HF at 15amps is too marginal..
that router wants 18 amps under heavy load... which it can't hold for long but the ESC will suffer...
go for a 20 amp controller..
the next issue will be the bearings... that could be catastrophic...

my experience w/ PC...

.

 

[rkruz3]

Did you have the same board as shown in the picture? The caps are under a plate that is swagged into the board so I was wondering how you removed the plate to get access to the caps? Looks like 47uf, 50V. When you replaced these the speed controller worked?

do you know of a 20A controller?. I only see the $20 15 amp variety and then jump to the $60 25A Rockler version.

The PC speed controller is intermittent. It will hold low speed for example but when I switch it up to 2 and and back 1 it will almost stop then surge to highest speed. Both brushes look fine.

Im on the fence to just find another used 7518 vs invest more $ in this one. I should have been more careful to test it before I bought it.

 

[Herb Stoops]

Have an old 7518 in my table on a lift. The speed control switch access was blocked by the lift, so I set it on hi and plugged it into a 20 amp speed controller. I love it, you can dial in the best speed for the bit. This router doesn't have the soft start,too old, I have heard that soft start has to be eliminated for a speed control to work, you might want to research that.

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9410-20...20+amp+speed+controller&qid=1570464138&sr=8-1

Herb

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

PC tools aren’t what they used to be since bought out a few years ago and they may never have had good bearings ever. One of my sanders has a skateboard bearing in it. You may want to look at a different motor or go with a 7519 which I think was the single speed model at plus 3 hp. Less to go wrong. Then use a good remote speed controller.

 

[rkruz3]

I replaced the caps in mine..

.

When you replaced the caps, did you board look like the one in the picture I attached? I was wondering how you managed to remove and replace the metal plate which apparently is the heat sink.

 

[Stick486]

that's a heat shield and it should be mechanically connected to the board...
BTW... IWTB that's and off shore model...
I stay away from MCLS at any cost...

https://www.amazon.com/20-amp-speed-controller/s?k=20+amp+speed+controller

if you have to have a '18, go w/ a new one and pay attention to the PDF...
why not a Bosch 1619???

 

[Stick486]

When you replaced the caps, did you board look like the one in the picture I attached? I was wondering how you managed to remove and replace the metal plate which apparently is the heat sink.

mine had twist tabs holding it to the board...

 

[rkruz3]

mine had twist tabs holding it to the board...

ok. I see that. After heat shield removal, you replaced the 2 radial capacitors, 47uf/50v (you can see in my picture) and it worked after that?

 

[Stick486]

When you replaced the caps, did you board look like the one in the picture I attached? I was wondering how you managed to remove and replace the metal plate which apparently is the heat sink.

I believe you'll be better off w/ an external controller...

SUGGESTION....
When you are using your router don't lay it on it's side because the warmed up/thinned bearing lube has a tendency to leak out...
this is NOT A GOOD PLAN...
build a rest for your router...

.

 

[Stick486]

ok. I see that. After heat shield removal, you replaced the 2 radial capacitors, 47uf/50v (you can see in my picture) and it worked after that?

you only have 2???
mine had 4 and they were bulged and yes it worked.....
no hope fr one...
bypassed it an went ESC...
if it's a triac/diac/potentiometer... yur pretty much outta luck..

 

[rkruz3]

you only have 2???
mine had 4 and they were bulged and yes it worked.....
no hope fr one...
bypassed it an went ESC...
if it's a triac/diac/potentiometer... yur pretty much outta luck..

Did you have the speed controller with the 5 position slide switch?
I just double checked and there are only 2 of the tall capacitors under the heatsink, both 47uf/50V. there are other small chip caps on the circuit board however. Neither of the 2 caps appear bulged.

What did you mean by "no hope fr one..."?

 

[Stick486]

Did you have the speed controller with the 5 position slide switch?
I just double checked and there are only 2 of the tall capacitors under the heatsink, both 47uf/50V. there are other small chip caps on the circuit board however. Neither of the 2 caps appear bulged.

What did you mean by "no hope for one..."?

yes on the switch...
they must have done a redesign since mine..

a brown spot is an indicator of a failed cap...
you may have another issue other than the caps..

''no hope''.. couldn't repair the SC w/ a cap change... so which part was it???

 

[Stick486]

PC tools aren’t what they used to be since bought out a few years ago and they may never have had good bearings ever. One of my sanders has a skateboard bearing in it. You may want to look at a different motor or go with a 7519 which I think was the single speed model at plus 3 hp. Less to go wrong. Then use a good remote speed controller.

agreed...

 

[rkruz3]

yes on the switch...
they must have done a redesign since mine..

a brown spot is an indicator of a failed cap...
you may have another issue other than the caps..

''no hope''.. couldn't repair the SC w/ a cap change... so which part was it???

I decided not to replace the caps since they did not appear blown. So I took the safest route as has been recommended. Harbor Freight is close by. I got thier speed controller for about $15 after discount, bypassed the PC speed control, mounted the HF SC on the side of the router table cabinet and plugged it in. Works fine. Will see how it does reliability wise...I use the router a lot. It has a 90 day warranty so ill have a lot of time on it by then. The top speed to my ear sounds the same as before (its a loud router compared to the Hitachi M12V, I have 2 tables one with the M12V and now the PC). Of course no soft start but who cares when its in a table. The speed adjusts up and down. Ill have to wait and see how it does at slow speed with a raised panel bit and report later on. Votes out if Ill keep the PC. I like the lift but the Hitachi M12V is a better router all around but no lift for it. Its just a hassle making a large height change with the Hitachi. The Bench Dog Pro Lift I got with the router, I think circa 2008, it exceptionally well built machine. Very please with it.
Thanks for the guidance. You helped guide me to a successful conclusion.

 

[Stick486]

I like the lift but the Hitachi M12V is a better router all around but no lift for it.

https://jessem.com/collections/rout...rout-r-lift-prestige-for-plunge-based-routers

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

I have an M12V which I used in my table for several years and it did an acceptable job. Having to reach under to adjust it was the biggest issue. Then I got an M12V2. It has above table adjustment capability. There is a 13 or 14mm nut on the end of the adjustment rod which is exposed once the black plastic base comes off. I use a 3/8 drive mechanics speeder wrench with a socket on the end and I can through the full range of adjustment in literally a matter of seconds. The V2 also has a wider throat opening and has plugs on the end of the spring tubes to make removing the springs easy ( takes maybe a minute). It really was designed to be used in a table but was never really advertised as such for some reason.

 

[rkruz3]

I have an M12V which I used in my table for several years and it did an acceptable job. Having to reach under to adjust it was the biggest issue. Then I got an M12V2. It has above table adjustment capability. There is a 13 or 14mm nut on the end of the adjustment rod which is exposed once the black plastic base comes off. I use a 3/8 drive mechanics speeder wrench with a socket on the end and I can through the full range of adjustment in literally a matter of seconds. The V2 also has a wider throat opening and has plugs on the end of the spring tubes to make removing the springs easy ( takes maybe a minute). It really was designed to be used in a table but was never really advertised as such for some reason.

nice. Ill take another look at the M12v2. I had one years back and returned it because the collet was so whimpy compared to the M12V......has a couple thin shims as I remember. But yes, reaching under the table is and making a large height adjustment is the worse with the M12v