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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I know the answer to this but I don't want to mess up a project by not asking. I'm making my second end grain cutting board. It will require two glue ups. I grabbed a bottle of Titebond III, because it was in easy reach, and did the first glue up. It's drying as I type this. After I was done, I realized that I won't have enough for the second glue up. I have plenty of Titebond II. Can I use the II for the second glue up without causing a problem? I know that if the joint is flush no glue will show, but each block (think checker board) of the finished board would have two edges glued with III and the other two edges glued with II. Do I use the II or head out to HD for another bottle of III? As always, thanks for your help.
 

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Theo
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Now that was very interesting. The last I read on glue strength was years ago, when it was supposedly 2500 lbs for basically any then modern wood glue. Actually, I don't really see much of a biggie on glue strength, as it's all stronger than wood anyway.

I started using just Titebond years and years ago. Later tried Titebond II, and like it better, so stuck with that. A year or so ago decided to give Titebond a shot again, 'cause couldn't remember why I'd stopped using it. Well, turns out it was different from Titebond in a variety of small ways, perfectly usable, but enough so I went back to Titebond II. Never ran into anything I figured I needed Titebond III on, so have never tried it. I figure if I ever make a wooden boat I'll probably use Titebond II, because it will be protected by fiberglass, paint, or whatever, and not subject to direct immersion. Besides, if I were to make a wooden boat it would be trailered, and not in the water more than a few hours at a time.
 

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I started using just Titebond years and years ago. Later tried Titebond II, and like it better, so stuck with that.
look for Franklyn glue...
they make Titebond and it's the same...
different label and a lot cheaper...
 

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Titebond also makes a clear drying glue that is pretty nice, and it stays open for a bit longer.

Titebond 4134 Extend Wood Glue Bottle, 16 oz.
by Titebond

Passes Type II water-resistance testing
Slower speed of set - Longer open time
Hot press and R-F compatible

I've used it a couple of times and don't mind letting it set up for two hours or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all your replies. I am familiar with the properties of the various Titebond glues. In rereading my question, I realized that I hadn't phrased my main question properly. I apologize for that. I know that both II or III will work with cutting boards and, once dry, both are stronger than the wood. My main concern, for the board that I'm currently making, which is mostly end grain maple, is that, when II and III dry, they're different colors. II is yellowish and III is a light brown. If any of the joints aren't perfect, a thin line of the dried glue may show. If this occurs on adjacent edges they will be different colors. But, would this make a difference once the board is oiled? I'd prefer not to have to go out and buy another bottle III, which I rarely use, just to finish this one board. Then again, if it will make a difference if the joints aren't perfect, I'd hate to waste about $30 worth of wood for cost of a bottle of III. Again, i'm sorry i didn't ask this originally.
 

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Sounds like it will make a difference to you and for you to be happy with your project you need to be consist with the glues since you know they dry a different color. How about just buy a small bottle of Titebond III? Woodcraft has Titebond III on sale for 4.24 for the small bottle.
 

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Mike
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Barry,

Remember III is water proof and II is water resistant. That is why most people that make cutting boards use III. The board will need to be washed and cleaned after each use so the board will be subjected to water all the time. Periodically the board should also have finish reapplied so the owner should be told how to take care of the board and what to use to refresh the finish.
 
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key point

Barry,

Remember III is water proof and II is water resistant. That is why most people that make cutting boards use III. The board will need to be washed and cleaned after each use so the board will be subjected to water all the time. Periodically the board should also have finish reapplied so the owner should be told how to take care of the board and what to use to refresh the finish.
For me, this is the key point moving forward. (I agree that it seems that your worry about a different look for the glue joints means that you should not change glues in mid project)
But I don't like using a water RESISTANT glue on anything that gets washed (or soaked) over & over.
For me it's a water PROOF glue on those projects.
 

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As pointed out in John`s link (Semipro), T3 is very highly water resistant. If you really want waterproofness then it`s urethane, resourcinol, or epoxy. All PVA and aliphatic glues have some level of water resistance, some more than others. Cutting boards should never get soaked or even immersed in my opinion. Maybe into the sink and a rinse over it and a wipe and that would be it. In that circumstance most glues would be okay so other issues like open time and glue line color would come into play.
 

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Back to asking stupid questions. Stupid questions are about all I do ask and they still let me hang around. ""For now""
 

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There are no stupid questions Don.
 

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Back to asking stupid questions. Stupid questions are about all I do ask and they still let me hang around. ""For now""
1... you asked a NOT stupid question...
2... many learned from it ...
3... so, it was beneficial and not stupid...
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the additional comments and suggestions. As it turns out, I made a number of mistakes with this board so I decided to experiment. In the second glue up, of 18 strips, I used up the remainder of III, got me through 9 joints and I used II for the remaining 8 joints. As you can see in the first picture, you can't see any difference. In the future, I’ll never do this again. Based on the number of joints the longer open time of III works better for me. And, as many of you pointed out, it is a better glue with water.

One of the mistakes I made was due to a problem with the Maple. I started with 8/4 rough cut boards 10" wide. I resawed it, ripped it in half to fit my 6" jointer, and milled the boards down to 13/16 to match the Purpleheart. So far, so good. I then set up the table saw to cut the Purpleheart and maple to 1 1/16" width. The two Purpleheart strips and 3 of the Maple strips came out fine. However, the remaining 6 Maple strips came out with significant bows when cut. One of them had a 3/16" bow over 20"!! I’ve never experienced this level of stress in a board before. They were useless. I started with another rough cut board and cut the remaining 6 pieces. Well, somewhere along the line, and I think I know were, I measured wrong and, in the final glue up, It was off by 1/16". If you look at the second picture you'll see the misalignment.

Lastly, I decided to put a groove in the ends to help lift the board. I only had the 5/8” round nose that I bought to cut the juice groove in my last edge grain board. I set up the router and cut the groove in 3 passes. Turns out the groove was not perfectly centered and on the third pass I accidentally (carelessly?) reversed the board and expanded the groove. It came out fine but now my concern is that the vertical grain above and below the groove is so narrow it may tear out in use. So, I’ve decided to keep this board as a reminder to keep me focused in case I ever think that I really know what I’m doing.
 

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looking better than god I'll have ya know...
 
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