Welcome to the forums apollo2000. I think you should go back to sears and get a manager. The problem with crapsman most of the time is that when you buy their brands you have to stick to their brands they usally don't make some things interchangable. I would go and tell them that you were told wrong about for one thing that all base plates are different for mounting. Porter cable won't hook up to a black and decker base or vica-versa. So you got miss led in my veiw. I won't go drilling holes through it either might heat it and warp it. Sounds to me the dewalt if you can't take it back will be a nice one for hand held working and if you ever up grade to a better table you could use it for your new table when the time comes. Hope this helps you out.
Problem mounting Dewalt Router to Caftsman Table Saw
Hi All,
I needed help mouting a Dewalt Router to a Sears Table saw with router kit, any idea.
One day I was in Sears and they had a good quality cast iron table saw for sale with a hole at one end to attach a router.
So thinking it was a great deal – two in one package I bought it.
At that time I was considering buying a Porter Cable router but since they did not have any in that store, I bought a Dewalt Router, what I was told by the sales guy was a good router and it did look good as it has a plunger feature that can be removed. The sales guy told me that the holes were standard on the table and will accommodate any common brand routers.
Well the table saw took me a long time to assemble as it has all legs made of multiple plates, etc and is heavy as it is built drive. By the time I got to try to fit the router to the table it was over 30 days since I bought it, the router holes don’t line up at all and screws do not fit either and Sear will not credit me as it is over 30 days.
So I went to the store and they sold me a square plastic plate and said that would work. But that did not work either as the cast iron table has a round hole about 2 inch in diameter and not a big square plastic plate as found on most router tables. Also the screws that come with the router are too short to go through that thick castiron top.
Anyway, the bottom-line is that I cannot mount the new Dewalt Router on to that table- do you have any suggestions as to how I can make this work.
After a long time I went to another Sears store last week and asked the same question and the sales guy told me something unbelievable- he told me that I needed to drill holes in the cast iron table saw top to make my Dewalt Router Fit.
I needed help mouting a Dewalt Router to a Sears Table saw with router kit, any idea.
One day I was in Sears and they had a good quality cast iron table saw for sale with a hole at one end to attach a router.
So thinking it was a great deal – two in one package I bought it.
At that time I was considering buying a Porter Cable router but since they did not have any in that store, I bought a Dewalt Router, what I was told by the sales guy was a good router and it did look good as it has a plunger feature that can be removed. The sales guy told me that the holes were standard on the table and will accommodate any common brand routers.
Well the table saw took me a long time to assemble as it has all legs made of multiple plates, etc and is heavy as it is built drive. By the time I got to try to fit the router to the table it was over 30 days since I bought it, the router holes don’t line up at all and screws do not fit either and Sear will not credit me as it is over 30 days.
So I went to the store and they sold me a square plastic plate and said that would work. But that did not work either as the cast iron table has a round hole about 2 inch in diameter and not a big square plastic plate as found on most router tables. Also the screws that come with the router are too short to go through that thick castiron top.
Anyway, the bottom-line is that I cannot mount the new Dewalt Router on to that table- do you have any suggestions as to how I can make this work.
After a long time I went to another Sears store last week and asked the same question and the sales guy told me something unbelievable- he told me that I needed to drill holes in the cast iron table saw top to make my Dewalt Router Fit.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
I would take the DEwalt router back and get the porter-cable It was there mistake, not yours , they should be able to exchange routers, and make sure they are of equal value..Not sure what dewalt you got..DW616 or 618.If they have a saw there on display make sure it fits. Do not drill holes in your saw top.
If you cannot get anywhere with them, then if you did get the Dewalt Combo with 2 bases..you could have the fixed base , drilled and tapped to fit..It will not ruin the base., But the holes have to be right on too line up.
An adapter plate will also work but you will lose some router bit height.
I would FIRST go down hard on the store ..thats your best option , they sold you 2 pieces that will not work together..the 30 days doesnt mean anything..get the manager involved and if he wont do anything go higher.
You should have to waste your time, trying to match up too pieces that are not meant to be..
Also sears Craftmen routers are made by Skil Skil also makes Bosch.I really wonder if Porter-cable will fit the table. If so great, but if they are wrong again, go for a Bosch 1617 combo package.
Hickory
If you cannot get anywhere with them, then if you did get the Dewalt Combo with 2 bases..you could have the fixed base , drilled and tapped to fit..It will not ruin the base., But the holes have to be right on too line up.
An adapter plate will also work but you will lose some router bit height.
I would FIRST go down hard on the store ..thats your best option , they sold you 2 pieces that will not work together..the 30 days doesnt mean anything..get the manager involved and if he wont do anything go higher.
You should have to waste your time, trying to match up too pieces that are not meant to be..
Also sears Craftmen routers are made by Skil Skil also makes Bosch.I really wonder if Porter-cable will fit the table. If so great, but if they are wrong again, go for a Bosch 1617 combo package.
Hickory
Thanks for you feedback.Glenmore said:Welcome to the forums apollo2000. I think you should go back to sears and get a manager. The problem with crapsman most of the time is that when you buy their brands you have to stick to their brands they usally don't make some things interchangable. I would go and tell them that you were told wrong about for one thing that all base plates are different for mounting. Porter cable won't hook up to a black and decker base or vica-versa. So you got miss led in my veiw. I won't go drilling holes through it either might heat it and warp it. Sounds to me the dewalt if you can't take it back will be a nice one for hand held working and if you ever up grade to a better table you could use it for your new table when the time comes. Hope this helps you out.
I guess I need to find the right Sears Manager who will listen. I guess I will not be buying any craftsman electrical tools anymore.
Hickory is exactly correct when he tells you to go to management at Sears. Please go up three levels of management, thank level one and level two with a " I understand that you do not have the authority to solve this problem; please let me talk with your supervisor.". I know this is a time consuming approach, however, it has been my experience that polite persistence will overcome "written in stone policy" everytime. Occasionally you may have to go to level four but not often. Good Luck, Erich.
the hole pattern for a C-man router, using the 3 #10 flathead screws fits C-man routers (made by Ryobi), the small Skil routers use the same pattern and one of the C-man routers is made by Skil, but only in a combo-kit with a router table
the P/C should fit also
are you wanting to use a larger (1/2" shank bit) router?
the 3 larger holes are for the C-man router (5/16" flathead screws) in an "L" pattern
on drilling your own holes, there is no problem with drilling the cast iron, especially the small holes that you need on that large a plate, 500 rpm max, no cutting oil.
the P/C should fit also
are you wanting to use a larger (1/2" shank bit) router?
the 3 larger holes are for the C-man router (5/16" flathead screws) in an "L" pattern
on drilling your own holes, there is no problem with drilling the cast iron, especially the small holes that you need on that large a plate, 500 rpm max, no cutting oil.
I'll put in my .02 not as someone who knows that much about routers and hole patterns etc. But I DO know a thing or two about retail having worked in several major stores - including Sears - over some 30 years.
I can tell you - there are PLENTY of people with the authority to tell you - no - regarding correcting an error like this. Far fewer with the authority to say -yes-.
A GOOD salesman would have acknowledged this and helped you up the chain of command til you found someone who could resolve the issue. One satisfied customer - especially one who brags about how so-and-so went out of their way to resolve a problem is worth THOUSANDS in ads.
Unfortunately - your salesman chose not to -- and left it up to you.
As others have pointed out -- you keep pressing -- and you will find someone who will make it right -- Heres hoping you already have.
I can tell you - there are PLENTY of people with the authority to tell you - no - regarding correcting an error like this. Far fewer with the authority to say -yes-.
A GOOD salesman would have acknowledged this and helped you up the chain of command til you found someone who could resolve the issue. One satisfied customer - especially one who brags about how so-and-so went out of their way to resolve a problem is worth THOUSANDS in ads.
Unfortunately - your salesman chose not to -- and left it up to you.
As others have pointed out -- you keep pressing -- and you will find someone who will make it right -- Heres hoping you already have.
Since this posting is 2 years old I do hope the problem was resolved. For anyone new to the forums here is a rule about Sears products that is true most of the time: If you buy a Craftsman product odds are it will need Craftsman accesories to work. Most of the sales people at Sears are not woodworkers and do not honestly know what works together and what does not. If you buy a table and router they say will work together have them show you in the store before you hand over your money.
As always, we here at the forums will do our best to assist you with problems in dealing with a manufacturer. The voice of 12,000 members and 2,000,000+ visitors is often loud enough to get results.
As always, we here at the forums will do our best to assist you with problems in dealing with a manufacturer. The voice of 12,000 members and 2,000,000+ visitors is often loud enough to get results.
You mention a SQUARE mounting plate. Did you try the round adaptor plate? I bought one several years ago to mount my Dewalt router to a Craftsman table. Worked like a charm. I actually had to buy another today as I busted that one up trying to mount it to a Mastercraft table. Only $14.
I had a similar problem with matching the template holes with a router.
What I did was place the router base under the mounting template, affixed the router base to bottom of template and drilled and tapped three 1/4" x 28 bolts, added locking nuts for a little more security. Worked great. Good luck.
What I did was place the router base under the mounting template, affixed the router base to bottom of template and drilled and tapped three 1/4" x 28 bolts, added locking nuts for a little more security. Worked great. Good luck.
Oops may have left out something. Drill and tap the three holes in your router base, not the template.
One piece of advice for anyone new to woodworking. Read and study all of the product information about a product before you waste you money on something that will just occupy space in your shop. For example I have a hitachi m12v router that I bought on sale and now looking for a router lift for this tool. I found what I was looking for with router technologies. Following this advice has saved me a lot of trouble. Also consault someone who ownes that type of tool. You would be surprised what you will learn that can save you a lot of time and trouble.
Mounting router to table
Hi All,
I needed help mouting a Dewalt Router to a Sears Table saw with router kit, any idea.
I had a similiar problem. Template on the table would not line up with any holes on my router. The manual that came with it said there was another template I could purchase, it was $30.00, how could I be sure that would fit.
Anyway, on the issue.
I placed my router unter the template and was able to find one hole that lined up.
I bolted the router to that one hole, then, moved the router to the position it needed to be to use the switches, plugs, whatever.
There were holes in the template above the router, but no holes in the router that matched up.
So I marked two places on the base plate of the router, drilled and tapped the router base plate with 1/4" x 32 screws, set the router back under the template, inserted the screws, pulled it snug to the bottom of the template. Added lock nuts for security. Kind of reverse situation. Everyone tries to work with the template.
There's plenty of room on all router bases I've seen, to allow you to modify the router base plate instead of the templated on the table. Hope it works for you.:moil:
I too have that sears table with the cast iron top, good solid top, and I was lucky that I had a craftsman router that did line up so I'm happy, but would love a stand alone table.
I've always thought sears motto is satisfaction guaranteed or you money back.
But that may have been before K-mart bought them.
I've always thought sears motto is satisfaction guaranteed or you money back.
But that may have been before K-mart bought them.
Drilling holes in cast iron (and tapping them) is really quite easy, and if drilled slowly does not create heat. I have drilled several holes in the cast iron top of my craftsman saw for new fence rails and the process is quite satisfying when it all comes together. Dewalt makes some great routers. Just DRILL BABY DRILL
Makita LS1221 12-Inch Compound Miter Saw is the best well-known miter saw brand as known to me so far..It has powerful 15.0 AMP motor delivers 4,000 RPM.. It is strong square and very powerful .The cut was perfect, right out of the box, and continues to be so even now. The blade was a better quality than what I thought would be on it and it still gives me the cleanest miter cuts I've ever seen.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
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