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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having an issue driving these masonry screws. It worked yesterday but today it will not drive the screws all the way in. I am thinking it is one of 2 problems. The batteries are old, actually I only have one which is still working. The clutch is giving out. What happens when the clutch starts to go? The clutch still seems strong. I cannot hold it but I am running the Dewalt DCD950 on 21 the top number.

So now I faced with buying batteries or another drill.
 

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I am having an issue driving these masonry screws. It worked yesterday but today it will not drive the screws all the way in. I am thinking it is one of 2 problems. The batteries are old, actually I only have one which is still working. The clutch is giving out. What happens when the clutch starts to go? The clutch still seems strong. I cannot hold it but I am running the Dewalt DCD950 on 21 the top number.

So now I faced with buying batteries or another drill.
I think the 18v batteries are on sale at $99 for two at Lowes. Clutch went out in one of my DeWalt drills after using it to drill in concrete. Local tool repair shop repaired it under warrantee and it's been fine for several years.

I think you can have the battery pack rebuilt at a battery shop, but don't let them use smaller capacity batteries. I really love the 18v system and will keep using it as long as possible. But in the end, I'll likely replace with Bosch tools.
 

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I think the 18v batteries are on sale at $99 for two at Lowes. Clutch went out in one of my DeWalt drills after using it to drill in concrete. Local tool repair shop repaired it under warrantee and it's been fine for several years.

I think you can have the battery pack rebuilt at a battery shop, but don't let them use smaller capacity batteries. I really love the 18v system and will keep using it as long as possible. But in the end, I'll likely replace with Bosch tools.
Tom don't buy this drill from Bosch. The chuck kept letting go of the bit so I bought a new chuck but it did the same. Also the forward and reverse switch moves back and forth to easy (there is no positive stop). So I bought a new one but that didn't fix it.

https://www.cpooutlets.com/bosch-ps...-in--drill-driver/bshnps31-2a,default,pd.html
 

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I am having an issue driving these masonry screws. It worked yesterday but today it will not drive the screws all the way in. I am thinking it is one of 2 problems. The batteries are old, actually I only have one which is still working. The clutch is giving out. What happens when the clutch starts to go? The clutch still seems strong. I cannot hold it but I am running the Dewalt DCD950 on 21 the top number.

So now I faced with buying batteries or another drill.
Lee I bought this Miliwaukee drill and it's my go to drill now. The only down side to it is it's a little to heavy but I have been doing push ups. :grin: Other than that I like every thing about it. Don't be afraid to buy reconditioned tools from CPO they stand behind what they sell. I had to send a reconditioned router back to them and they were very nice.

https://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-...rill-driver-kit/milr2701-82ct,default,pd.html

I bought this Black and Decker 5 or 6 years ago and it's been a good drill with one exception. The RPM is to slow. Most of the time that is not a problem but it can be a problem when the RPM for the bit needs to be higher.

https://www.cpooutlets.com/black-an...-ion-drill-driver/bdknldx120c,default,pd.html
 

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I have that Milwaukee 18v and it is powerful and it has the best keyless chuck I've ever used but for heavy drilling like masonry is still use a corded drill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I figured out it is my clutch system. The drill and hammer drill work fine. No warrantee.

So now I guess I am looking at a new drill system. The Milwaukee looks good. The one posted above has 500 inch pounds whereas the model 2703 has 1200 inch pounds. I now only need a heavy drill driver. I am using my Hitachi 12v system for light stuff. I decided I will no longer use a heavy drill/ driver for light stuff. Does anybody have a Milwaukee 2703 with 1200 inch pounds? Do you like it. I am leaning that way since I want a heavy drill/driver.

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well it is my birthday tomorrow and I did not want to wait for a drill to be shipped. I bought a Dewalt DCD996P2 drill. Turns out the Dewalt service center has an upgrade path for 18v drills through the end of the month. By giving Dewalt an 18v Dewalt drill you can buy the Dewalt DCD996 hammer drill/driver with 2 5ah batteries, charger and case for $174.99. This seemed like the best deal to me.

The DCD996 drill is about 800 inch pounds which is stronger than my old DCD950b. It is not quite as strong as the new Milwaukee 2703 drill at 1200 inch pounds. Milwaukee was going to set me back $300 plus for the 1200 inch pound model.

I hope the new Dewalt works well.
 

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I own a full set of Gen V Ridgid 18V tools. The great thing about Ridgid tools, if you follow the proper warranty registration rules your tools are warrantied for life including the batteries. I have had people use my Ridgid tools and have immediately gone out and bought their own. They also now have a lot of their tools in brush less versions as well.

CAD-Man
 

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What do you use for a heavy driver which is corded? Don't you need a clutch system for long masonry screws? Is there something corded with a clutch system?
In heavy drilling clutches will probably prove unreliable. Truth is I don't trust clutches at the best of times. If the clutch goes then the tool is probably junk and for a clutch to work there has to be slippage and slippage causes wear.

For heavy driving like that I would use a VSR 1/2" drill with a max speed of about 550 rpm. I see too many people using the clutch for jobs instead of being aware of what they are doing and developing better hand to eye motor coordination instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just to clarify my clutch system stopped working driving 1/4 x 3 1/4 masonry screws in brick. I was not using the clutch system to drill. I used the hammer drill mode to drill in the bricks. It seems to take a lot of power to drive the masonry screws into brick. I don't know of any corded tool to drive the screws into brick. Is there one?

My new Dewalt DCD996 drill sure has more power than my old drill driving masonry screws.

The Ridgid warranty sounds great.
 

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Sorry Lee, I should have said in heavy driving instead of drilling. I would still use a corded tool to drive them, one without a clutch. Lots of power and slow speed is the answer. I also like using a 3/8" right angle drill I have for driving. It is VS and only 1500 rpm which is good for long wood screws.
 
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