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Problems with Flattening Jig setup
Hello All,
Brand new to this forum, wish I had known it existed previously as it might've saved me a lot of heartache. I am an amateur woodworker and make a lot of epoxy wood river tables that require surface flattening after the epoxy has cured. After trying to make several of my own router sled jigs, I decided to invest in a very nice set up from clear-cut woodworking (photos attached). Their set-up requires a collet extension in order to clear the sled that holds the router. Unfortunately, I have been having all sorts of problems with vibration, the spoiler bit bouncing up and down, and gouging of my stock over and over again. I seem to be gliding along without any issues, then suddenly the bit will descend into the wood and gouge a new path (or worse). I read on a previous post that sometimes the extension can bend or slip within the collet. I have tried to tighten it down as hard as I can but it still seems to want to bounce up and down within the extension bit.
I know in general people recommend avoiding the extensions, but this set-up requires it in order to clear the rails. Any suggestions would be very welcome, as I've spent quite a bit of money on this set up. Thanks!
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Brand new to this forum, wish I had known it existed previously as it might've saved me a lot of heartache. I am an amateur woodworker and make a lot of epoxy wood river tables that require surface flattening after the epoxy has cured. After trying to make several of my own router sled jigs, I decided to invest in a very nice set up from clear-cut woodworking (photos attached). Their set-up requires a collet extension in order to clear the sled that holds the router. Unfortunately, I have been having all sorts of problems with vibration, the spoiler bit bouncing up and down, and gouging of my stock over and over again. I seem to be gliding along without any issues, then suddenly the bit will descend into the wood and gouge a new path (or worse). I read on a previous post that sometimes the extension can bend or slip within the collet. I have tried to tighten it down as hard as I can but it still seems to want to bounce up and down within the extension bit.
I know in general people recommend avoiding the extensions, but this set-up requires it in order to clear the rails. Any suggestions would be very welcome, as I've spent quite a bit of money on this set up. Thanks!
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Oops, I meant clean cut. Here is the link to the product.
www.cleancutwoodworking.com
They specifically state that you need a collet extension for the set-up to work.
“The Clean Cut Woodworking Router Sled REQUIRES a collet extension so you can attach your bit to the router. This 1/2" collet extension has been proven to offer the most balanced and strong hold for your router bit. Fits 1/2" shank bits only. Extend the depth of your bits up to 2-1/4. Overall diameter is 1-3/16"
40"x60" Woodworking Router Sled
40" x 60" Router Sled Our woodworking router sleds are made of high quality solid steel rods. Standard dust boot works with up to a 2" diameter router bit. Large dust boot works with up to a 2 3/4" diameter router bit. The base plate of your router is fully attached to the sled so it is safer to...
www.cleancutwoodworking.com
“The Clean Cut Woodworking Router Sled REQUIRES a collet extension so you can attach your bit to the router. This 1/2" collet extension has been proven to offer the most balanced and strong hold for your router bit. Fits 1/2" shank bits only. Extend the depth of your bits up to 2-1/4. Overall diameter is 1-3/16"
I'd contact the manufacturer. Question. When the bit drops, does only the bit and shank drop, or does the extension and bit drop together. One suggests that extension's collet is faulty, the second suggests the router's collet is bad. The difference between loose and tight for collets is a couple of thousandths, so if one or the other is damaged in some way, or lubricated, or one is tight and the other loose, that could be the issue.
I also notice you are using a DeWalt, which has that ring height adjustment and I wonder if that is slipping somehow? When I shopped for routers, I noticed the only broken one on display was the DeWalt, and it was that ring that was damaged. Check for damaged threads or other slop in the height adjustment. I don't have a DeWalt, so I don't know if has a height lock or is just friction that holds the adjustment ring.
I guess if the router is old, you could have a problem with a bearing, any wobble/vibration might be loosening the collets. My thoughts at any rate.
Finally, it looks like you might be using a flat bit, which could easily catch and pull the bit loose. Consider using a bowl carving bit with a flat area, but rounded so it won't catch. You just make more passes. A bit something like this 1 1/4 Whiteside.
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I also notice you are using a DeWalt, which has that ring height adjustment and I wonder if that is slipping somehow? When I shopped for routers, I noticed the only broken one on display was the DeWalt, and it was that ring that was damaged. Check for damaged threads or other slop in the height adjustment. I don't have a DeWalt, so I don't know if has a height lock or is just friction that holds the adjustment ring.
I guess if the router is old, you could have a problem with a bearing, any wobble/vibration might be loosening the collets. My thoughts at any rate.
Finally, it looks like you might be using a flat bit, which could easily catch and pull the bit loose. Consider using a bowl carving bit with a flat area, but rounded so it won't catch. You just make more passes. A bit something like this 1 1/4 Whiteside.
.:
If that's happening, a new router is pretty much your only option. Give consideration to the Bosch 1617 EVSPK outfit, which has both fixed and plunge base, each of which permits setting the bit height and locking it in. It comes with 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets in the USA. Excellent router, especially if you only have one. Get the kit, buying the plunge base later is pricey. Here's the kit.
This router works really well in a table, and there are many great accessories, including dust collection. Two faves are the edge guide which doubles as a circle cutting guide (comes with dust collection parts), and the under table base for about $60. RA1165, with a key to do fine height adjustment from above the table. Dandy little accessories totaling less than $100 last time I checked. Lots of RFfolks swear by their1617s.
This is the edge guide. Fancy devil and it shows where the bars go for a router ski. Over engineered? Yup.
1. You place the wood directly on the tabletop/bench. I recommend placing a 3/4" piece of flat plywood with adjustable feet on the bench. It will always allow you to keep your routing piece leveled and will allow you to elevate/adjust the height of the piece.
2.The cradle that your router is mounted to isn't built correctly. The router sits too high on the tracks, you need a new type of cradle. This is how I built it.
Attachments
Actually, I built it from the scratch. I bought two sets of rails with bearing blocks for $80, one 1/8" metal plate, and four pieces of 2" steel corners, about 10" long each, and put everything together. I don't make blueprints, but I can upload pictures for you to get an idea.
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