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A question for the Probotix users.
I recently purchased a pre-owned Asteroid that had excessive slop in the Z axis bearings. New bearings were ordered on eBay, but didn't seem to improve the situation at all. My options at this point are to order another set of bearings, this time from Probotix, and hope for the best or modify the Z axis to accept linear profile rails in place of the unsupported round rod/single bearing arrangement. The modification would consist of adding four holes to the X plate, eight holes to the Z plate and machining four spacers to match the existing X plate/Z plate spacing. Probotix wants $100 for two replacement bearings and I can get two rails cut to length with equal hole spacing on each end and four flanged bearings for $150. The downside is that +Z travel would be reduced by about an inch, but there would be no loss of clearance under the gantry and no loss of Z travel in the - direction.
Has anyone else tried something like this and if so, how did it work out for you?
(My original idea was to machine a new, slightly wider Z plate as in the images below, but the original plate could also be used by machining four holes along each left and right edge.)
I recently purchased a pre-owned Asteroid that had excessive slop in the Z axis bearings. New bearings were ordered on eBay, but didn't seem to improve the situation at all. My options at this point are to order another set of bearings, this time from Probotix, and hope for the best or modify the Z axis to accept linear profile rails in place of the unsupported round rod/single bearing arrangement. The modification would consist of adding four holes to the X plate, eight holes to the Z plate and machining four spacers to match the existing X plate/Z plate spacing. Probotix wants $100 for two replacement bearings and I can get two rails cut to length with equal hole spacing on each end and four flanged bearings for $150. The downside is that +Z travel would be reduced by about an inch, but there would be no loss of clearance under the gantry and no loss of Z travel in the - direction.
Has anyone else tried something like this and if so, how did it work out for you?
(My original idea was to machine a new, slightly wider Z plate as in the images below, but the original plate could also be used by machining four holes along each left and right edge.)
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