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Thanks for the responses. Love this forum!


Yes I have a table saw and did consider that as an option. Now that I can see the profile more clearly in the drawing for the router bit I can see how it could be done. I guess I'd need to use a taper jig to make the cuts as they're on an angle. Then use a round over bit (the ones without a bearing).
 

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Your table saw blade tilts. All you need is a solid 90 degree fence.
Stand the wood on its edge, and tilt the saw to the right angle for the cut. Run all the pieces through the saw.
Lay the wood flat, tilt the blade for the second cut to intersect the first cut. Run all the pieces through the saw. Job done.
Make a test cut first on same dimensioned scrap to get the angles and height correct.
 

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Thanks for the responses. Love this forum!


Yes I have a table saw and did consider that as an option. Now that I can see the profile more clearly in the drawing for the router bit I can see how it could be done. I guess I'd need to use a taper jig to make the cuts as they're on an angle. Then use a round over bit (the ones without a bearing).
Using the router bit I suggested does not require a tapered board. The bit profiles the board face like in your original post. Cutting this profile can also be done using a craftsman/corob molding tool (if you have one) using this cutter knife set... #31 Corob Taper Edge Molding Knife — Corob Cutters . To make the roof tile on a table saw, you can make angle profile, but only individual angle cuts (one row to a each board.

To make multiple rows, use the router bit I suggested on a router table, set up with feather board and a push block to make each board with multiple profiles. Once you make a profile into your board... you can cut the rebate to interlock the roof together. The router bit cuts a total depth of 3/16" (very shallow), and you could route the pattern into long boards, then cut to length for assembly. I think the profile you originally posted was done with the router bit I posted.
 
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