I have an old Makita chop saw and it never came with a guard. You have to adopt a different attitude when you run it. There is nothing but you and the saw as soon as you pull that trigger until the blade stops turning.
I remember those. We had a 12"dia. and a 16" dia. on the job site.
Talk about a scary machine, no blade brake or guard, you could use it right at quitting time and come back in the morning and the blade was still turning. :grin::grin:
They were good dependable saws tho, bet they still are running today.
Herb
The thickness of the metal you would use would depend on how easy it would be to wrap it around the spring hub. You could also use washers and spacers to mimick the post at the pivot point.
I've never had luck using "liquid steel" on plastic although a two part epoxy might work.
If you go with Herb's idea, I would mount it on the outside...you might be able to span over the spring hub...sort of a triangle piece of metal making the pivot point and riveting it to the stronger part of the plastic on the other side of the hub. Spacers will likely be needed to get over the hub. If there is room, add a small washer on the business end of the rivet...it will help to prevent cracking the plastic when squeezing the rivet...
Check out the Weld-On line of products and see if they have one that might work. I have used Weld-On for fabricating and repairing acrylic based projects and it forms a very strong bond.
If it was made in China, there is a good chance that another brand or two were made in the same factory. Go to a big box store or hardware store and look. No guarantee parts will interchange......sort of like Craftsman and the OEM item.
Good luck on the repair.
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