[timbertailor]

When my last PC died (bearing failure), I bought the Milwaukee 5625-20 for my table router and never looked back. It supports above table adjustment.
The Milwaukee is dedicated for table use.

Rick and I both use a Festool OF1400 for plunge routing but not something I would recommend for double duty, although I have seen it done.

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Stick are you saying the motors rotor moves up and down in it's housing (I'm not referring to it moving in it's base )

If so that's bad


I bought the motor only as it's going in a lift

 

[DaninVan]

Don't mean to beat this to death, Stick, but I'm curious as to what the exact problem is. In this picture Porter Cable Product Details for 3-1/4 HP (Maximum Motor HP) Five-Speed Router - Model # 7518 are you referring to the interior of the base's vertical column? The part that actually contacts the motor housing?

 

[Stick486]

Stick are you saying the motors rotor moves up and down in it's housing (I'm not referring to it moving in it's base )

If so that's bad
I bought the motor only as it's going in a lift

no...

 

[Stick486]

Don't mean to beat this to death, Stick, but I'm curious as to what the exact problem is. In this picture Porter Cable Product Details for 3-1/4 HP (Maximum Motor HP) Five-Speed Router - Model # 7518 are you referring to the interior of the base's vertical column? The part that actually contacts the motor housing?

that's the one I'm taking about...
What I have to say is about the new 7518's and not the older American made ones...

1st issue

put a centering point in the router...
set the router up against a clamped on edge guide
you are not using a router mounted edge guide for this test...
spin/rotate entire the router around 360º while it's up against the edge guide...
the router doesn't even need to be plugged in....
observe where the CP indicates the center of the router is...
you'll find that it moves elliptically...
it's not because the base isn't round it's because the CL of the motor isn't centered in the base to it's self...
The CL of the motor and CL of the base are offset ever so slightly...

the router that was flagrant about this and that got my full attention was offset 5/64"...
have you ever wondered why you need to center the guide bushings to the CL of the motor???
PC told me I must have dropped the router and were happy to sell me another base for 85$$$... plus shipping...
since I still have the two bases from the catastrophically failed routers I swapped out the bases/motor...
same issues only not as bad but, the measures were different on each swap but the offset is still there... hmmmmmmm...
that tells me a lot... like that huge hole in the base that receives the motor is offset for starters...
so that motor got new ceramic bearings and lives in the JessEm lift...

2nd issue...

install a 1/2" drill rod into the router...
longer is better..
measure/test the motor to the base for perpendicular squareness...
it isn't.....
so not only is that hole for the motor offset it's at a slight angle...

3rd issue

install a 1/2x6" drill blank...
turn the router on...
what you see is run out because of the bearings...

so much for QC...

the motor having inadequate bearings and the base being poorly done just doesn't make/cut it...
the defects in the base aren't even consistent for crying out loud..
swapping bases and motors all show the same issues but measure differently...
My four American made 690's haven't got these issues.. nor do the two American made R2D2 looking ones...

The PR department for PC says these are production routers... Right.. can you just feel/touch the sarcasm...

Metalworking Tools - Drills, End Mills, Taps, Machines, Measuring Tools, Abrasives, Power Tools and MRO Supplies | Travers Tool
http://www.travers.com/jobbers-leng...rch=block id 34987 and class level3 id 297780

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Well I guess I'm out another 500 bucks and tax .'good thing I never ordered a lift yet.
So Stick what do you recommend for a router?

 

[Stick486]

Well I guess I'm out another 500 bucks and tax .'good thing I never ordered a lift yet.
So Stick what do you recommend for a router?

change the bearings and stick the motor in a JessEm lift...
they go together well...

http://jessem.com/index.html

http://jessem.com/MAST-R-LIFT_II.html

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Stick I wanted to go with an Incra lift as I have there table and there clean sweep inserts . I think the same company makes both ?

I just checked my pc75182 and the collet was perfectly centred to it's chassis when I checked with my callipers . I would have to remove the back section in order to gain access to the rear of the rotor to check if it's centred but I hate to disassemble it for nothing other than piece of mind .
If the bearings become an issue and are replaceable I can live with that.

Stick , could that have been a bad run?

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Stick here's a bosch and it's reasonably priced . Not sure if it works in a lift yet though

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00004TKHV?tag=price0019_ca-20&m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

Check with the manufacturer of the lift Rick. Most of the ones I've looked at have several different clamp rings that will fit motors of differing diameters. They will indicate which popular routers each fits and you have to order accordingly.

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Check with the manufacturer of the lift Rick. Most of the ones I've looked at have several different clamp rings that will fit motors of differing diameters. They will indicate which popular routers each fits and you have to order accordingly.

Good point Charles . Hopefully the Incra lift I want does both just incase I'm not satisfied with the PC7518 results .
Not even sure if those bosch fit in a lift , and there less power unless you get the one that's a plunge for under table mounting

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Well good news it fits several . The V2 is not available in Canada so I'm opting for the the lower model


INCRA Mast-R-Lift II Compatibility:

Also improved on the Mast-R-Lift II: the new carriage design accommodates a wide variety of routers without the need for adaptors. The four aluminum clamping blocks are simply repositioned on the carriage plate when changing from one model of router to the other.

Just one model of router lift will accept all of these routers:
Porter Cable 7518, 690-699 series, & 890-899 series
Bosch 1617EVS,1618
DeWalt DW610 & DW618
Makita RF1101 & RD1101
Hitachi M12VC & KM12VC
Milwaukee 5625, 5615, 5616, & 5619
Craftsman 17543, 17540, & 28190
Ridgid R29302

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Joel sorry for side tracking your thread but my uncle Stick got me all depressed

Here's some pics of measurements if it helps any

 

[jnbrown]

Turns out the Triton router is out of stock until the end of this month which is ok because I won't need it that soon. One online store told me they had back orders for 20 of them.
In the mean time I tried gluing a small piece of the white board to the MDF with Titebond III. The back of the white board seems to be MDF or similar material and I was worried because some things I read said wood glue won't work with MDF. I applied pressure while it was drying with some bricks and other heavy objects. It seems to have adhered pretty well. I wanted to avoid using contact cement because of the volatile toxic fumes. Now I am trying to decide what to do with with edges of the MDF. I read about using various substances like shellac, paste wax and glue. I was thinking about gluing hardwood edging on it but I am not trying to create a work of art, just a tool. Since I have wood glue handy I am going to experiment with that. Maybe I just leave them bare but worried about them absorbing moisture.

 

[jnbrown]

Joel sorry for side tracking your thread but my uncle Stick got me all depressed

Here's some pics of measurements if it helps any

Thanks for the pics, but I don't understand what the benefit is to offset it along the long edge of the table. Maybe you can explain.

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Just guessing here Joel but I think the offset would help by getting more material on the table to help line it up , hold it steady etc , on narrower tables that is .
I mean the most important part would be the cut at the bit , after that it's being out fed , so I guess after the cut it would be less critical .
I'm just learning myself

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Joel I haven't heard of that glue . I used WeldBond glue with mdf when I built subwoofer boxes . Stuff is incredibly strong with no odour . Although I wouldn't recommend it , it doesn't taste bad either . ( no I didn't intentionally put it in my mouth)

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

Most glues will stick to mdf. I like to rough the surface up a little to give the glue a little more to grip to.

 

[Stick486]

Stick I wanted to go with an Incra lift as I have there table and there clean sweep inserts . I think the same company makes both ?

I just checked my pc75182 and the collet was perfectly centred to it's chassis when I checked with my callipers . I would have to remove the back section in order to gain access to the rear of the rotor to check if it's centred but I hate to disassemble it for nothing other than piece of mind .
If the bearings become an issue and are replaceable I can live with that.

Stick , could that have been a bad run?

no idea on the same manufactures...

bad run??? DIIK...

 

[Stick486]

Stick here's a Bosch and it's reasonably priced . Not sure if it works in a lift yet though

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00004TKHV?tag=price0019_ca-20&m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

yes it does...
but you can use the base on that one as the lift...