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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Shop Fox W1716 Aluma-Classic fence owners!

As you are already keenly aware of, the manual for the W1716 (& W1720) could be improved upon, and as I await until mid-September for delivery, I'm trying to prepare my Craftsman 113.29901 table saw for this much needed upgrade to its old (original) fence.

1) Could you please tell me if there is a direct email address to Woodstock Inc. technical support?

Earlier I wrote Woodstock customer support asking for a detailed drawing (i.e., shop drawing) of the two rails and they replied no, they didn't have a drawing; however, I'm not certain the response actually originated from tech support.

After studying the manual for the Shop Fox W1716 Aluma Classic (w1716_m.pdf), and realizing there isn't enough information given to determine what the standard rear fence rail bracket dimensions are for the Shop Fox W1716. I also need the dimensions of the standard rear fence rail bracket's hole locations to make certain I get the cast iron table top properly drilled, and if need, tapped.

2) Could you please provide dimensions for the rear rail (standard length, not the long rails of the W1720)?

Thank you very much for any assistance.

Kind regards,

Kelly

--
V. Kelly Bellis, PLS (retired)
17 Union Street
Ellsworth, ME 04605
 

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Hello Kelly,

I have a W1410 installed on an old Craftsman TS. You’re overthinking it; once the fence arrives, just clamp the rails to the table and mark the holes with a centerpunch, then drill and tap.


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Hello Kelly,

I have a W1410 installed on an old Craftsman TS. You’re overthinking it; once the fence arrives, just clamp the rails to the table and mark the holes with a centerpunch, then drill and tap.


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That is what i did with an Excaliber fence I put on an old Craftsman saw years ago. That is a sure way to get it where you want it.
Herb
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Herb and Dennis. I agree totally about the part that I'm over thinking this, an affliction I've suffered since childhood. Mid-September will arrive most certainly and I'll have my answers then I guess to continue with engineering the box which will enclose the motor and belt while allowing its full range of motion within the box. Because of the motor's zenith when cutting 45° angles, the motor box enclosure will require the top surface to be made from 1/8" melamine-clad tempered hardboard. Here's a sloppy sketch of the thing as I've currently & roughly have it with a gutter allowance on the box for the angle iron in my first post's question. And in the meantime, I've got chores numbered 1 & 2 complete; 1) building the plywood table top with an integral dust chute that the saw will sit on; and 2) installing the casters that are expected today.
 

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