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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Received my new M12V and still working on my new router table and bench set up. Have not even had time to turn on the M12V yet, but did notice that it came with only a 1/2" collet. Is there a 1/4" collet available and if so could you point me to where I can purchase one? Also does any one know the 2 metric wrench sizes that fit the collet area? I believe the one that comes with the router has 21 stamped on it, but fits the collet only. I want to get 2 better wrenches to work with.

Many thanks for any help you have to offer.
 

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Hi Bob

I think the collect size is 21mm but I don't have Hatachi to tell you for sure what size the lock key size is..
But open up the tool box and crab some open end metic wrenchs and slip it on the shaft that will tell you for sure what size it is.

Like you I'm still making my new router table, the link below will show you how to get around without playing with the lock under the table.
A real pain,,, the link below (John ) use some threaded rod but I think I'm going to use a cable setup so I can pop out the router via. the router plate in the top.
In that way I can flip the router around to use the big side on the table top.
But no fastners just a "z hook cable", so the parts don't have a chance to fall into the router and I can unhook it quick and easy if needed.

I did buy two offset wrenchs from Sommerfeld tools for the P.C. but I forgot I needed one for the Freud 3 1/4 HP router so I just made one from a old set I had on hand.

The collet,,,,,,I know someone ask the same thing about 2 or 3 weeks back ,but I could not find it with a quick search on the forum,Lee Valley rings a bell for the part (collet) you need.

"Marc Sommerfeld has added a wire control on the shaft lock for his super router table"
Hatachi router

John Lucas way below
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr7.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr6.htm

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

If you are asking what the heck is a Z hook bend cable.
This a control cable you can make quick and easy with the right tool, it's just some 1/4' KEY stock that you drill a 1/32 hole in the end to make the tool.
see snapshots below,,,you just push the cable in a 1/32" hole and with just a quick turn of the tool you have a Z cable,then just push and turn it in and it's locked in the hole...Used on many lawn mowers and small eng. equipment, no fastners needed to hold it in.


Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Bob,

Thanks for all the great information.

After visiting the Lee Valley site I saw a 1/4" collect reducer adapter and was not real sure about it, but then I got the instruction manual out that came with the M12V and noticed that one of those was included.... DUH! Guess the man thing of reading the instructions as a last resort applies here :eek: I was looking for an actual additional collet like came with my DW618's.

I may have mis-lead in my orginal post that I am building a router table..... I am not, as I ordered the complete Oak-Park unit and absolutely love the thing. So easy and simple and that is the way I want to keep my router interest this time around. I got carried away before and made it too complex and was not as encouraged to use it as much. What I am building is a rolling work bench cabinet that the router table will sit on. This bench will serve many purposes and not just the router table. I will post a picture when I have it completed and hope others can draw some ideas from it.

I love all the ideas from Mr. Lucas on those links you provided. I have run across them a while back, but forgot about them and you post has now reminded me of them and I am in the process of studying them carefully for ideas. I have already removed the springs and hope to cut the ears off today and then I am going to review the other ideas you have pointed out.

I am checking on the wrench size for the other nut as I am sure the collet wrench is 21mm, but the other one is a little larger and none of my open end wrenches go that large. I'll just have to figure it out in time.

That z hook looks interesting and I am going to spend some time reviewing it further.

Thanks for all you have helped me with Bob. It is always much appreciated as is our cyber friendship on the forum.
 

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Hi Bob
You're Welcome anytime I can help please just ask :)

The collet wrench should be a 22mm,(3/4"=24mm) or 20mm this is a odd ball size but you can find them in a Tiwan set, they do work great as off set wrench because they are thinner than most wrench sets . (just heat it and bend away)
Besure to get right next the opening on the 1st bend, Plus a sharp 90 deg.bend 1 1/8" down from the 1st. bend.

I just added a item to my router table today just for kicks :) Let there be light so I added one ,then snaked in a vac. hose with.
see snapshots below..
Now I can use my plunge router with the vac. port on top of the table and just plug it into the hose and then when I use the brass guides on the router table ,it will just hang just over the brass guide and suck up the chips...or I can just move it off to one side quick and easy if I don't need it..(1/2" hole in the corner of the router table) for the mount.

Bj :)
 

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Bob N said:
Received my new M12V and still working on my new router table and bench set up. Have not even had time to turn on the M12V yet, but did notice that it came with only a 1/2" collet. Is there a 1/4" collet available and if so could you point me to where I can purchase one? Also does any one know the 2 metric wrench sizes that fit the collet area? I believe the one that comes with the router has 21 stamped on it, but fits the collet only. I want to get 2 better wrenches to work with.

Many thanks for any help you have to offer.
I have a couple M12V's. The 21 mm wrench that comes with the router isn't worth a darn, pitch it. The two wrenches you need to use are 21mm and 24 mm. I took the 24 mm and "milled it thinner" so it slips in easier. The standard thickness of 24 mm was too thick to slip in past the knocks. If you have access to someone with a mill, I would recommend you do this.
This (24 mm wrench), of course, is only needed if the router and plate are removed together to change the bit.
Steveo
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Steve..... that was exactly the info I was needing and I'll pick up those 2 sizes next time I tun out. I agree about the 21mm wrench that came with the M12V.
 

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bobj3 said:
Hi Bob
You're Welcome anytime I can help please just ask :)

The collet wrench should be a 22mm,(3/4"=24mm) or 20mm this is a odd ball size but you can find them in a Tiwan set, they do work great as off set wrench because they are thinner than most wrench sets . (just heat it and bend away)
Besure to get right next the opening on the 1st bend, Plus a sharp 90 deg.bend 1 1/8" down from the 1st. bend.

I just added a item to my router table today just for kicks :) Let there be light so I added one ,then snaked in a vac. hose with.
see snapshots below..
Now I can use my plunge router with the vac. port on top of the table and just plug it into the hose and then when I use the brass guides on the router table ,it will just hang just over the brass guide and suck up the chips...or I can just move it off to one side quick and easy if I don't need it..(1/2" hole in the corner of the router table) for the mount.

Bj :)
Bob,

I wanted to wait until I fully read and understood all of the links you provided in this thread before I got back with a reply.

The router table set up you are building is awesome and should be a very elite shop tool for sure. I can see why you are so excited about it and those little modifications and features will make it a joy to use for the way you like to work. I especially like the light and vac features you added as well as the "Z" hook idea for the lock.

After sifting thru everything I could lay my eyes on for research purposes, I finally went to the shop and whacked those M12V ears off. :eek:

I approached the technique a little different than in the links. I simply removed the Oak-Park plate (for the 4th time) then pulled the base/rods from the spring/lock shaft. Took the whole assembly over to my padded wood vice and mounted the rods into the vice to hold everything nicely while my jig saw cut those ears right off like a knife thru hot butter. (I know... I know) :D A couple of minutes filing the edges smooth and then a few blasts from the compressor hose to remove any metal filings and I was done. Start to finish including re-assembly took less than 15 minutes. The main reason for my removal of the ears at this time instead of waiting is because the brass safety pin would not fully seat in the base plate due to the placement of M12V ears and the Oak-Park plate. The M12V ears would have required a different set of template inserts anyhow from the ones I got for the base plate.

While I had the router in front of me, I decided to re-install the fine adjustment rod assembly (for the 2nd time) and found that it would work in the Oak-Park table contrary to what I first thought. This should make fine tuning much easier and more accurate for the way I hope to work.

I wanted to post this in hopes it will benefit anyone else needing first hand information from someone who has actually done this as well as compliment you, bobj3, on the excellent job you are doing with your new set up.

Again, thanks for the information you and others have shared that has helped me get this far with my changeover.
 

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bobj3 said:
Hi Bob

Just one more tip, besure to check out the link below, many tips on your new router :)


Project - "Preparing the Router for the Table"

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/smfld-3.htm


Bj :)
I noticed he cut off the ears with the router in the base.. Would it be a good idea to do that with the motor out of the base, so chips don't get in it?
 

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Hi Mike

" Would it be a good idea" = yes it would be ,but he may not have a vise that will hold the base...flat and true.

It looks like he used 3M Blue Tape over the motor when he cut the ears off so the small chips would not drop in.
And used the motor to support the jig saw.

Lock Device in snapshot...

Just one more tip from a old tool and die man, he used Nuts to hold the rod in place not the best way to do that type of job, nuts/lock nuts just don't stay a 1/16" or 1/32" hole for a cotter pin will keep this type of job safe, a hole into the nut and the rod will keep this type of connection from coming apart, until you want to remove the part.

Bj :)

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/smfld-28.jpg

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/smfld-26.jpg

Bj :)
 

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I have a couple M12V's. The 21 mm wrench that comes with the router isn't worth a darn, pitch it. The two wrenches you need to use are 21mm and 24 mm. I took the 24 mm and "milled it thinner" so it slips in easier. The standard thickness of 24 mm was too thick to slip in past the knocks. If you have access to someone with a mill, I would recommend you do this.
This (24 mm wrench), of course, is only needed if the router and plate are removed together to change the bit.
Steveo
Hi Steve:

I would recommend the wrench set for the makita 3612. They fit the Hitachi M12V perfectly. Get both wrenches and skip using the shaft lock. Far safer and easier to use.
 
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