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First post, let me jump in with some questions..

I picked up a used bosch 1617 in a woodpecker lift, in an incra table w/ ultra jig. I dove in and started with their symetrical box joint template. Seems like it's going to work well, but I hit a couple issues:

I was using the the 'shop-stop' incrementaltools.com/INCRA_Shop_Stop_p/shopstop.htm and noticed the leading edge (not the red stop barK, but the gold part that mounts on the fence) protrudes slightly proud of the fence, and caused the parts to deflect a bit or bump when they came in contact. Not sure how I messed that up, it's a couple of plastic screws holding it to the fence. Anyone here ever had that problem? Prob a newb issue, but that's why I ask.

Next thing- had to change the bit. -DISCLAIMER- This next part will prob will get me beat up -DISCLAIMER- but 2 wrenches (16mm, 22? used adj wrenches) was hard to do reaching under the table, and easier but annoying above it. Are there special wrenches (thin?) for this? My other router is a festool 1400, and it has this nice clicky ratchet and one wrench. Any kind of quick change collets I could put on the bosch 1617?

I had some blowout on the front box side (1/2" baltic birch ply) initially, but I read though the directions (who knew they were useful?) and it said not to do the full height in one pass. Workflow question- do you just mark the finished height line on the pieces and then sneak up on them for the last pass? Seems like the more times you move the bit up and down the less repeatability you have.

I know, I know- new guys.
 

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First post, let me jump in with some questions..

I picked up a used bosch 1617 in a woodpecker lift, in an incra table w/ ultra jig. I dove in and started with their symetrical box joint template. Seems like it's going to work well, but I hit a couple issues:

I was using the the 'shop-stop' incrementaltools.com/INCRA_Shop_Stop_p/shopstop.htm and noticed the leading edge (not the red stop barK, but the gold part that mounts on the fence) protrudes slightly proud of the fence, and caused the parts to deflect a bit or bump when they came in contact. Not sure how I messed that up, it's a couple of plastic screws holding it to the fence. Anyone here ever had that problem? Prob a newb issue, but that's why I ask.

Next thing- had to change the bit. -DISCLAIMER- This next part will prob will get me beat up -DISCLAIMER- but 2 wrenches (16mm, 22? used adj wrenches) was hard to do reaching under the table, and easier but annoying above it. Are there special wrenches (thin?) for this? My other router is a festool 1400, and it has this nice clicky ratchet and one wrench. Any kind of quick change collets I could put on the bosch 1617?

I had some blowout on the front box side (1/2" baltic birch ply) initially, but I read though the directions (who knew they were useful?) and it said not to do the full height in one pass. Workflow question- do you just mark the finished height line on the pieces and then sneak up on them for the last pass? Seems like the more times you move the bit up and down the less repeatability you have.

I know, I know- new guys.
Hi Mike - Welcome to the forum:)
Sorry, I can just help with the wrenchs, items 150 and 151... doesn't indicate which is which:
Bosch 1617 Parts List and Diagram - (0601617039) : eReplacementParts.com
The "clicky" ratchet is more than likely a spindle lock device and not in the collet. I don't know if the newer 1617's have it or not. Even if they do, I doubt it will be retrofittable, at least not economically.
:)
 

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I just read about a new product called Musclechuck in Fine Woodworking that attaches to your collet. You then use an Allen wrench to remove your bit. They did it in 7 seconds. Available from Woodrat apparently.
 

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Hi Dennis

I think you will find that the collet must be removed and then you install the quick chuck..have you every rounded out a Allen device ?, and it must real tight to hold the router bit, it can be a real Pain to free it up, once you do. :( I still have a router bit stuck in the one I have in the tool box :(

Google

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/30333-muscle-chuck.html

==

I just read about a new product called Musclechuck in Fine Woodworking that attaches to your collet. You then use an Allen wrench to remove your bit. They did it in 7 seconds. Available from Woodrat apparently.
 

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Hi Dennis

Just one user review..

Got it :) . I got the one I have back in 2007 or 2008 I don't recall for sure just one of the things that looked real good at the time but it did turn out to be real night mare.. ( for Porter Cable router)

I knew I could get the Allen out in time with some heat but it looked like a bad design and not way to over ride it..


http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001936/29459/Quick-Change-Router-Chuck-Whiteside-9720.aspx

I got the have from Rockler but they don't list them anymore.

===

Yes, to clarify it replaces the collet. Poor wording on my part. I am not recommending this, just passing along some info from FWW.
 

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hi there,
check out the rather expensive precision collet ext from rutlands.
 

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Can you use cranked spanners. I made a pair for my table, I only need to use 1 as there is a spindle lock that requires a thumb. I have an ultra and really like it once it is set up. I do my finger joints in multiple passes and use waste sacrificial pieces front and back. I have altered my right angle fence for better operation by replacing the laminated feet with slippy plastic ones. Once the jig is set up I will carry out multiple boxes, one set of sides at a time. The biggest boxes were 3'x3'x2' for my daughters stage set models in 6mm MDF. Cutting the joints was fine, the assembly was time consuming. Make sure you have the correct size bits It took 3 purchases from different makers till I found the perfect fit.
 

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I have been using this extension / quick collet for a month or so now (see link). It is ok, but you have to mount a spacer on the bottom of your router (between the plate and the table). It also limits the travel DOWNWARD of a bit, which can make using a spiral bit useless with this collet extension, unless you want more than an inch of the bit ABOVE the table top when routing. It does work great for roundover type bits, but not well at all for straight bits.

I only went to this when the shaft lock on my Porter Cable router broke. It is difficult to use two wrenches to loosen/tighten the collet nuts, but I think I will go back to that method and get rid of the quick collet / extension.

Just my humble opinion...

Router Xtreme Xtension™ - Rockler Woodworking Tools
 

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The Musclechuck doesn't have a cam to indent the tool shank. It is the cam in the cam chucks that causes all of the problems. When the cam is overtightened the cam indents the toolshank causing a burr which jams the tool shank in the chuck. Check out the specs on the musclechuck web site. Good luck!!
 

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The Eliminator chuck used a cam device to hold the bit and that is where the bits get stuck. The Musclechuck works differently and holds well but does not get stuck. Martin at Woodrat was telling me about this last week.
 

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The reason you are having so much trouble with the quick chuck is the cam is indenting the tool shank causing it to get stuck in the chuck. Try a Musclechuck it doesn't have any cam and is twice as strong as the cam chucks. Check it out on Musclechuck.com
 
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